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WHITE AND FRANCONIA 

MOUNTAINS, 

1 t ^awrcqce and ^ague^ng fivers, 

THE NORTHERN LAKES, 

UAta***#*} and 

THE GREAT WEST. 


1875 . 














Stages leave this Honse for the Crawford House Daily. 















































































































































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Trans-Continental Eoute to San Francisco, Salt Lake City, Yosemite Yalley, the Big Trees, and all the magnificent Scenery of the Pacific Slope and the Pocky and Sierra Nevada Mountains, 

via Chicago & Northwestern Pail way to Omaha and Union and Central Pacific Line to San Francisco. 

Through PULLMAN CAPS and all the commodious and modern improvements with connections by Pacific Mail Steamer for China and the Trip around the World. 














ADVERTISEMENTS. 


1 




ST. LOUIS STREET, QUEBEC. 

WILLIS RUSSELL, Proprietor. 


vv,' < 

This Ilotel, whicti is unrivalled for size, style and locality, in Quebec", is 
open through the year for pleasure and business travel. 

It is eligibly situated in immediate vicinity of the most delightful and 
fashionable promenades—the Governor’s Garden, the Citadel, the Esplanade, 
the Place d’Armes, and Durham Terrace—which furnish the splendid 
views and magnificent scenery for which Quebec is so justly celebrated, 
and which is unsurpassed in any pait of the world. 

The proprietor, in returning thanks for the very liberal patronage 
hitherto enjoyed, informs the public that this Hotel has been Enlarged 
and Refitted, and can now accommodate live hundred visitors, and 
assures them that nothing will be wanting on his part that will conduce to 
the comfort and enjoyment of his guests. 



Corner Ann and Garden Streets, 


This modern Built Hotel is now open as an auxiliary to the ST. LOUIS 
HOTEL. Terms Moderate. 

WILLIS RUSSELL, Proprietor. 












2 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


Rich Farming Lands 

FOR SJML,E, VERY' CHEAP, 

BY THE 

Union Pacific Railroad Company. 


NOW IS THE TIME 

To secure a HOME in the Great Central Belt of Pop¬ 
ulation and Wealth, and on the line of 
the World’s Highway! 

3,000,000 Acres in Eastern Nebraska, 

IN THE 

The Garden of the "West. 

FREE PASSES AMD REDUCED RATES OF FREIGHT TO PUR¬ 
CHASERS OF RAILROAD LAND. 


Full information in regard to lands, prices, terms of sale, &c., 
together with pamphlets, circulars and maps, may be obtained J 
from all the Agents of the Department; also, 

“THE PIONEER/' 

A handsome Itlustrated Paper, with maps, &c., and con-j 
taining the Homestead Law ; Mailed Free to all applicants. 
Address, 

O. F. DAYI8, 

LAND COMMISSIONER, V.F.R.R. 

OMAHA, "NEB. 









Wassaumkeag Hotel, Fort Point, Stockton, Me. D..W. Ranlet, Prop’r. 






























































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































ADVERTISEMENT 


0 



run 



2 A 



G-ILiyLOTJR- & SOISTS, 

Fourth Street, Central Avenue, and Third Street, 

Cl NCIN N ATI. 

Opened for Guests September 14, 1874. 

The attention of the public is respectfully invited to the many claims to their con¬ 
sideration presented by the above Hotel, combining, as it does, every requisite which the 
age demands. 

The Hotel will accommodate eight hundred guests, is pleasantly and centrally located, 
convenient to the Railroad Depots and Places of Amusement, and being the only fi» st-class 
JioU-l in the city, supplies a want which has long been felt. 

The Furniture and Appointments are of the choicest and most expensive kind, and 
have been a constant theme ot admiration from the press and public. 

The elegance of the exterior, its large and beautifully decorated rotundas and spacious 
corridors, together with its lightness and perfect ventilation, combine to make it the most 
comfortable as well as elegant home for the resident guest and tourist, ever offered. 




























































































































KEYES’S HAND-BOOK 


NORTHERN AND WESTERN 

PLEASURE TRAVEL 

TO THE 

WHITE AND FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS, THE NORTH¬ 
ERN LAKES AND RIVERS, 

MONTREAL AND QUEBEC, 

AND THE 

ST. LA WHENCE AND SAGUENAY RIVERS . 


HOW TO EEACH THEM BY PLEASANT ROUTES, VIA THE 
MERRIMACK AND CONNECTICUT VALLEYS, AND 
CONNECTING LINES OF TRAVEL. 

ALSO, 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST 



AND ROUTES THERETO. 


“Oh, Nature! a’ thy shows and forms 
To feeling, pensive hearts hae charms IV— 

Burns. 

“ It is afresh and rare land, 

A rugged, bold and bare land, 

A loyal, true and rare land— 

This mountain land of ours." ' ' f fc . 

-- V P ^ / 

V 'If i $ / f • r * 

BOSTON: 


PUBLISHED BY GEO. L. KEYES, 4 WILLIAMS COURT. 

1875 . 




PEEFACE. 


In this “ age of travel ” tlie Guide Book becomes as useful in 
the portmanteau of the tourist as the lexicon in the library of 
the scholar; and, for this reason, we need not apologize for the 
issue of this Hand-Book. That it may prove a reliable guide to 
such as wisely spend their season of recreation among the'hills 
and by the lakes and streams of the granite Commonwealth, or 
extend their trip into the Canadas, or along connecting ways of 
travel, has been the aim of the author. 

Not pretending to rare literary merit, and hoping we have 
found the happy medium between the dry details of simple direc¬ 
tions and tabular statements, and the prolixity of elaborate works, 
we gratefully acknowledge the aid of the valuable and finely 
written works of Starr King, Willey, Eastman, and others, and 
give our little work into the hands of the traveling public who 
have so liberally patronized previous editions. 


THE AUTHOR. 


Boston, June 1st, 1875, 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by Geo. L. Keyes, 
in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 





CONTENTS 


CHAPTER T. Routes, etc. 17 

CHAPTER II. Northern Pressure Travel. 43 

CHAPTER III. Lake Winnipesaukee. 54 

CHAPTER IV. Northward from the Lake. 63 

CHAPTER V. Franconia Range. 88 

CHAPTER VI. White Mountain Range. 102 

CHAPTER VII. From Mount Washington, or the 
Crawford House, to North Con¬ 
way or the Glen House. 123 

CHAPTER VIII. North Conway and Surroundings 133 

CHAP PER IX. Around Gorham. 139 

CHAPTER X. Historical and Descriptive. 143 

CHAPTER XL Northward to Canadas. Mon¬ 
treal.146 

CHAPTER XIT. Quebec. 157 

CHAPTER XIII. Northern Vermont. 168 

CHAPTER XIV. Wells River to Montpelier and 

Westward. 176 

CHAPTER XV. Saratoga to Mountains. 182 

CHAPTER XVI. Niagara Falls to White Moun¬ 
tains. 192 

MAP of Routes to the White Mountains, Montreal 

and Quebec. 1 

MAP of the Great Northwest. 1 

MAP of the White Mountains, with List of Summer 

Bo arding Houses and Hotels. 43 

MAP of Routes to Portland and the East. 43 

MAP of the Saguenay and St. Lawrence Rivers. .. 209 

MAP of the Routes to Saratoga and the White 
Mountains. 178 


BOOK SECOND. 

THE GREAT NORTHWEST... 213 

CHAPTER I. To Omaha and California . 216 

CHAPTER II. St. Paul and Minneapolis Line. . 225 

CHAPTKR III. From Chicago to Milwaukee, etc. 236 

CH AP PER IV. From Chicago to Dacota . 246 

TIME TABLES...284-288 




























INDEX 


PAGE. 


/venue House... 78 

Alton Bay. N. H. 62 

Ammonoosuc River. 107 

Artist’s Falls. 137 

Ascent of t opple Crown. 61 

“ Moosilauk... 70 

“ Mount Lafayette. 96 

“ Mount Prospect. 67 

«* Mt. Washington. 112 

“ Mt.Washington by rail 112 

“ Mt. Willard. 119 

“ “Owl’s Bead”.173 

«* Red Hill. 59 

Ashland, N. H. 65 

Bartlett. 125 

Basin.75, 97 

B., C. & M. R. R. 49 

Beeclier’s Falls Cascade. 117 

Bellevue House. 171 

Betlileliem, N. H. 75 

Boarding Houses & Hotels, see maps. 
Boston, routes from to Mts.. .33 to 42 

Boston & Maine Railroad... 39 

Boston to Canada, routes... .33 to 42 

Boston, Mass. 40 

Bradford, Vt. 70 

Brandon, Yt.183 

Burlington, Yt.188 

Cacouna. 201 

Caldwell. 185 

Campton, N. H. 69 

Cannon Mountain. 92 

Cascades, Franconia Mountains. 98 
Cathedral, Natural, No. Conway 136 

Cathedral of Notre Dame. 153 

Cathedral. Montreal. 153 

Central Vermont Railroad. 182 

Centre Hat bur, N. H. 57 

Cherry Mountain.. . 84 

Chucorua. 138 

Colebrook, N. H. 86 

Concord, N. H. 45 

Concord to the Mountains, route 49 

Conway, N. H. 138 

Conway, through the Notch.123 

Copple Crown Mountain. 61 

Crawford House.... 116 

Crawford Notch. 117 

Crawfords, The. 145 

Crystal Cascade. 129 


PAGE. 

Devil’s Den. 137 

Diana’s Bath. 137 

Distances.... 13 

Dixville Notch.... 87 

Down the St. Lawrence.... 192 

Dunmore, Lake. 183 

Fagle Cliff.. 91 

Echo Lake, Franconia Notch.... 91 

Echo Lake, North Conway. 136 

Elevatiors. 12 

Elm House. 63 

Eagle Hotel. 49 

Emerald Pool. 128 

Fabyan House and Station .79, 105 

Falls, Ammonoosuc. 107 

“ Artist’s. 137 

“ Gibbs. 116 

“ Glen Ellis. 129 

“ Harvard. 100 

“ Montmorenci. 163 

“ on Avalanche Brook. 122 

Flume C »aw ford Notch. 120 

“ Dixville Notch. 87 

“ Franconia Notch. 98 

“ House, Franconia. 98 

Franconia Mountains. 88 

Franconia, N. H.73, 88 

Franconia Notch. 88 

Garnet Pools. 128 

Glens Falls.185 

Glen House and Glen. 127 

Gotham, N. H., and vicinity.... 139 

Gorham House. 139 

Gorham t<> the Notch. 141 

Grand Trunk Railway. 86 

Great Gulf. 110 

Guildhall V'. 186 

Histotical and Descriptive.141 

Hotel Tablet.14, 15 

Imp Mountain.142 

Island Pond. 146 

Islands of Wninipesaukee. 54 

Jackson, N. II.125 

Jefferson Hills. 83 

Jefferson, N. H. 83 

Kiarsarge House ..133 

Kiarsarge Mountain. 135 

Lhcliine Rapids. 197 

Laconia, N.H. 52 


“Lady of the Lake” boat. 55 































































































INDEX 


9 


PACK. 

Lake Champlain. 187 

Lake George.186 

Lake Mem phrem agog, trip on... 172 

Lake Village, N. H. 52 

Lake Winnipesaukee. 54 

Lancaster, N. H. 80 

Lawrence, Mass. 39 

List of Boarding Houses, see maps. 

Littleton, N. H. 72 

Long Island Sound. lo 

Lowell, Mass...... 37 

Lunenburg, Vt. 80 

Magog, Lake Mernphremagog... 173 

Manchester, N. H. 37 

Meredith Village. 63 

McAllister House. 71 

Mt. Adams House. 85 

Maplewood House.. . .... 77 

Moulton Home. . 59 

Merrimack River. 44 

Middlebury, Vt. 183 

Montcalm Old House. 162 

Montpelier, Vt.176 

Montreal... 147 

Montreal House. 148 

Moo 8 ehillock Mountain. 70 

Mount Adams.... ..114 

“ Agassiz House. 76 

“ Hayes. 141 

“ Jefferson. 114 

“ Madison .. .. 114 

“ Mansfield. 180 

“ Mansfield House. 179 

“ Prospect. 67 

“ Surprise. 141 

“ Washington... 112 

“ “ House. 112 

“ “ in winter... 108 

“ “ Railway. 103,108 

“ “ Summit view. 112 

“ Willey... . 118 

Mt. Willard, drive to summit of. 119 

Norwich line of Steamers. 20 

New Haven, Conn. 28 

Newport, R. 1. 32 

Newport, Vt. 171 

New York City and vicinity. 18 

New York routes from.20, 27 

Niagara Falls route . 193 

North Conway, N. H. 133 

North Conway, to and from. 133 

Northumberland Junction. 86 

Norwich, Conn. 22 

Notch, Dixville . 87 

Notch, White Mt. and vicinity.. 118 

Old Man of Mountain..... 91 

Oak Hill House. 72 

Parlor Cars. 282 

Passumpsic River Railroad. 168 

Peabody River. 128 


PACK. 

Pemigewasset House. 65 

Pemigewasset River and Valley. 69 
Pequaket Mountain or Kiarsarge 135 

Phenix Home, Concord. 48 

Pilot Hills. 140 

Pinkliam Notch. 126 

Plains of Abraham.167 

Plymouth, N. II... 64 

Pool, Franconia Notch.100 

Preface. 6 

Profile House and vicinity. 74 

Profile Mountain and Lake. 95 

Profile (stone iace). 88 , 91 

Providence, R. 1.30, 32 

Providence, routes from.30, 32 

Parker House. 71 

Plaisted House. 84 

Quebec, city of. 157 

Randolph Hill... . 140 

Red Hill. 59 

Richmond. P. Q. 147 

Routes, *11 rail.27, 38 

Routes, boat and rail.20, 26 

Rutland, Vt.. 182 

Saco River.117 

Saco Valley. 124 

Starr King Mountain House.... 85 
Saguenay River and route... .. 200 

St. Johtisburv, Vt.169 

St. Lawrence River.192 

St. Lawrence Hall. 202 

Saratoga route.182 

Sawyer’s Rock. 124 

Squam Lake House. 65 

Silver Cascade. 120 

Sound Steamers. 17 

Southeastern Railway.175 

Springfield, Mass.. 28 

Squam Lake. 67 

Starr King Mountain. 84 

Steamer “Lady of the Lake”.... 54 

Stowe, Vt. 180 

Sinclair House. 78 

St. Albans. 189 

Thornton, N.H . 69 

Ticonderoga. . 188 

Tip-Top House.113 

Tuckerman’s Ravine. 129 

Twin Mountain House. 104 

Van Ness House, Burlington, Vt. 189 

Vergennes, Vt.. 183 

Victoi'ia Bridge. 150 

Views from Moosehilloek summit 70 

“ Mount Belknap. 53 

“ Mount Washington.. 112 

“ Mount Pequaket or 

Kiarsarge,. 133 

“ Prospect Hiil. 67 

“ Red Hill. 59 

View of the Profile. 74 








































































































10 


INDEX, 


PAGE. 


View from Lafayette. 96 

“ Waumbek House.... 83 

“ Fabyan House. 105 

Warren, N. H. 70 

Waterbury, Vt. 177 

Waumbek House. 83 

Weirs 'Lake Station). 53 

Wells River, Vt. 176 

Wells River & Montpelier R. R. 176 

Whitefield, N. H. 79 

White Mountains, general view. 103 
White Mountain House. 105 


PAGE* 


White Mountain Notch. 117 

Willey House. 118 

Willoughby Lake. 170 

Wing Railway... 78 

Winnipesaukee Lake . 54 

Winter above the Clouds. 115 

Wolfeborough. 61 

Wolfe, General. 165 

Woodstock, N. H. 69 

Worcester. 28 

Woodsville, N. H. 71 

Welden House. .191 


INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 


PAGE. 


Appleton’s Journal. 278 

Brown & Claggett. 279 

Brooks House, Brattleboro’, Vt. 260 

Bethel House, Bethel, Me.265 

Boston Daily Advertiser. 271 

Boston Daily Globe...... 272 

Boston Journal. 273 

Cummings, C. S... 265 

Cook, Son & Jenkins. 268 

Davis, O. F. 2 

Eclectic Magazine. 275 

Fabyan Hotise .Cover 4 

Frank Leslie’s Publications. 274 

Grand Trunk Railway ... .Cover 3 
Grand Hotel, Cincinnati, Ohio.. 4 
Lockwood Brooks & Co.280 


Memphremagog House, New¬ 
port, Vt.259 

Morrison, J. G. 267 

Munn & Co. 277 


PAGE 

Preble House, Portland, Me. ... 263 

Phrenological Journal. 276 

Providence & New York Steam¬ 
ship Co.. 281 

Russell House, Quebec. 1 

St. Louis Hotel, Montreal. 1 

Southern Hotel, St. Louis. Mo.. 16 

St. Johnsbury House, St. Jolins- 

bury, V t . 264 

Savage, Lyman & Co.269 

Sdibner’s Monthly. 279 

Twin Mountain House_Cover 2 

The Galaxy. 270 

The Nursery...277 

United States Hotel, Portland, 

Me. 262 

United States & < 'anada Express 266 

Wassaumkeag Hotel. 3 

Waumbek House, Jefferson, N.H 261 
Webster’s Dictionary. 270 






















































INDEX TO BOOK SECOND. 

















PAGE. 


Ames, Iowa. 217 

Agricultural College, Iowa.217 

A merican Watches,. 215 

American River. 224 

Animal Remains. 218 

Burlington, Cedar Rapids & 

Minnesota Railroad.216 

Black Hills. 217 

Boone. 218 

Baraboo, Wis. 232 

Clinton, Iowa. 216 

Chicago. 257 

Chicago & Northwestern Rail¬ 
way. 214 

Colorado Park?. 221 

Cheyenne. 221 

Central Pacific Railroad. 224 

Central Railroad of Iowa. 217 

California. 216 

Cape Horn. 224 

Cedar River. 216 

Council Bluffs. 218 

Devil’s Lake. 227 

DonnerLake. 224 

Duluth. .. 245 

Denver Pacific Railroad. 221 

DesMoines Valley Railroad.217 

Detroit.250 

Denver. 221 

Elgin,Ill. 215 

Elroy, Wis. 246 

Ean Claire, Wis. 232 

Elkhorn River...220 

Electric Currents. 218 

Escanaba.245 

Falls of St. Anthony. 233 

Falls of Minnehaha. 233 

Forts. 221 

Fond du Lac. 235 

Grand Central Hotel.219 

Great National Park. 224 

Green Bay. 243 

Green Lake. 239 

Great Northwest. 213 

Glen Flora Springs.236 

Geneva I ake. 240 

Iowa. 214 

Illinois. .. 214 

Julesburg. 221 

Janesville. 242 

Lake Minnetonka. 234 


PAGE. 

Lake Winnebago. 239 

Lake Kampeska. 248 

Lake, Great Salt... 224 

Lincoln, Neb. 220 

Long’s Peak. 221 

Mormons. 222 

Montana. 224 

Milwaukee. 237 

Minneapolis. 233 

Madison, Wis.226 

Minnesota. 214 

Michigan. 214 

Mining Regions. 245 

Marshall, Iowa. 217 

Marquette. 245 

Nevada. 224 

New Ulm. 248 

Nicollet House. 234 

North Platte City. 220 

Nebraska. 219 

Omaha. 219 

Qsbkosh. 243 

Ogden,... 222 

Platte River. 220 

Pacific Mail Steamers.215 

Pineries. 232 

Pike’s Peak. 221 

Reno. 224 

Railways. 215 

Sioux City and Pacific Railroad. 217 

St. Paul. 233 

Sparta. Wis...246 

Salt Lake. 224 

Salt Lake City. 222 

Sherman. 221 

Sierra Nevada Mountain?. 224 

Sioux Wars.248 

Sheboygan. 239 

Tree, One Thousand Mile.--- 222 

Tama, Iowa.217 

Union Pacific Railroad. 220 

Utah.222 

Watert< wn. 243 

Winona. 248 

Wasatch Mountains. 222 

Waukegan, Ill.236 

Wisconsin. 214 

Wyoming. 221 

Walker House. 222 

Yellowstone Valley.224 

Yankton. 217 














































































































ELEVATIONS ABOVE SEA LEVEL. 


FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. 


Mount Lafayette, . . ... 

Mount Cannon, or Profile Mountain, 

Moosilauk,. 

Cherry Mountain,. 

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

M#unt 'Washington, 

Mount Jefferson, 

Mount Adams, . 

Mount Monroe, . 

Mount Madison, 

Mount Clay, 

Mount Franklin, 

Mount Pleasant, 

Mount Clinton, . 

Mount Jackson, 

Mount Webster, 

Mount Willard, 

Mount Willey, . 

Mount Carter, 

Mount Moriah, . 

Mount Hayes, 

Pequaket, or Kiarsarge (at North Conway) 

Chucorua,. 

Mount Prospect (near Plymouth), 

Red Hill (near Centre Harbor), 

Copple Crown Mount (near Wolfeboro’) 

Alpine House—Gorham, 

Bethlehem—Village, 

Crawford House, 

Fabyan House, . 

Flume House, 

Glen House, 

Profile House -Franconia Notch, 

Willey House—White Mountain Notch, 

Mount Resolution, 

Giant’s Stairs, 

Marshfield (or Ammonoosuc Station)—foot of Mountain Railw ty, 
Pinkham Notch (highest point), 

Franconia Notch (highest point), 

Plymouth, . 

Lancaster, . 

Littleton. 

Conway Intervales, 

Concord, N. H., Depot, 

Lake Winnipesaukee, 

MOUNTAINS IN VERMONT. 


FEET. 

. 5,000 
. 3,500 
. 4,636 
. 3,670 


. 6,285 
. 5,700 
. 5,800 
. 5,400 
. 5,400 
. 5,400 
. 4,900 
. 4,800 
. 4,200 
. 4.100 
. 4,000 
. 2,575 
. 4,300 
. 5,000 
. 4,700 
. 2,500 
. 3.367 
. 3,358 
. 2,968 
. 2,502 
. 2,100 
800 
. 1,450 
. 1,920 
. 1,551 
. 1,431 
. 1,632 
. 1,974 
. 1,335 
. 3,400 
. 3,500 
. 2,615 
. 2,018 
. 2,014 
473 

. 860 
817 
. 471 

236 
496 


Mount Mansfield,.4,384 

Camel’s Hump,.4,0*3 

Jay Peak.4,018 

Mount Willoughby,.3,600 

Ascutney (near Windsor),.3,320 

MOUNTAINS IN CANADA. 

Owl’s Head, near Lake Memphremagog,.2,749 

Mount Orford. 3*300 

Lake Champlain,.. 

Lake Memphremagog,.. 

Lake Willoughby,. 1 162 


/ 






























DISTANCES. 

VIA BOSTON, CONCORD & MONTREAL RAILROAD. 


From Concord. 


To 


Miles. 


North field, N. H. 

Laconia, N. H.,. 

Tilton, N. H.,. 

Lake Village, N. H.,. 

Weirs—Lake Winnipesaukee Station, 

Centre Harbor—10 miles by boat, .... 

Wolfeboro’—17 miles by boat,. 

North Conway—via Centre Harbor, by boat, stage 
and rail, ........ 

Meredith Village, N. H.,. 

Ashland, Is. H.,. 

Fly mouth, N. H.,. 

Rurnney, R.H.,. 

West Rumney, N. H., ... . . 

Wentworth, N. H.,. 

Warren, N. H.,. 

Haverhill, N.H.,. 

Woodsville, N. H.,. 

Wells Rivei, Vermont, (junction with I’assumpsic 
and Montpelier Railways), .... 

Bath, N. H.,. 

Lisbon, N. H., .. 

Littleton—11 miles staging from this point to the 
Profile House, ....... 

Wing Road (diverges from Main line), 

Bethlehem ton Wing Railroad), . . . . 
Twin Mountain House Station, .... 

Wliitetield, N. H.,. 

Dalton, N. H., .. 

Lancaster, N. II.,. 

Northumberland, N. H., (junction with Grand 

Trunk Railway),. 

North Strailord, N. II., (on Grand Trunk line), 
Sherbrooke, P. Q., (on Grand Trunk junction with 

Passumpsic),. 

Richmond, P. Q., (on Grand Trunk junction with 

Quebec division),. 

Montreal,. 

Quebec via Northumberland,. 

Montpelier, Vt., (via Wells River and new line to 
Montpelier, nearly completed), .... 
Waterbury, Vt., (via Wells River, stage to Stowe, Vt 
Stowe, Vt., (10 miles staging from Watei bury), 
Newport, Vt., (via Passumpsic Railroad from 

Weils River), . .. 

Lake Mempilnemagog,. 

Essex Junction, Vt.,. 

Burlington, Vt., . 

Hyde Park, Vt., (on Vt. division of P. & O. R. R. 

west from St. Jolinsbury), .... 
St. Jolinsbury on Passumpsic R. R. R. 


13 

27 

18 

27 

31 

44 

51 

75 

38 

46 

51 

59 

62 

67 

70 

85 

93 

93| 

98 

104 

113 

119 

125 

129 

125 

129 

135 

145 

158 

219 

244 

320 

340 

132 
,,) 140 
150 

158 

158 

162 

168 

165 

113£ 


From Boston. 
Miles. 

87 

101 

92 

101 

108 

118 

119 

149 

112 

120 
125 
133 
136 
141 
144 
156 
167 

167* 

172 

178 

187 

193 
199 
203 

194 
203 
209 

219 

232 

293 

318 

394 

414 

206 

214 

224 

232 

232 

236 

242 

199 

lb7| 


















HOTEL TABLET 


Place. 

Andover, Mass., 
Ashland, N. li., 
Bethel, Me., 
Brattleboro’, Yt. 


Name. 

Mansion House, 
Squam Lake House, 
Bethel House, 
Brooks House, 


Baraboo (Devil’s Lake), Wis., Cliff House, 


Boston, Mass., 


Burlington, Yt., 

Caldwell, N. Y., 

Centre Harbor, N. H., 

u a 

Chicago, Ill., 

<< t. 

Cincinnati, O., 

Clinton, Mass., 

Colehrook, N. H., 

Concord, N. H., 

ii 44 

Dover, N. H., 

Detroit, Mich., 

Glens Falls, N. Y., 

Green Bay, Wis., 

Green Lake, Wis., 

44 44 

Hartford, Vt., 

Hy depark, Vt., 

Island Pond, Vt., 

Lake Vihage, N. H., 

Laconia, N. H., 

Lennoxvilie, P. Q., 

Lisbon, N. H., 

Lowell, Mass., 

Meredith Village, N. H., Elm House, 


Clarendon Hotel, 
American House, 
Crawford House, 

Quincy House, 

Van Ness House, 

Ft. Wm. Henry Hotel, 
Senter House, 

Moulton House, 

The Grand Pacific Hotelj 
Pal mer House, 

Grand Hotel, 

Clinton House, 

Parson’s House, 

Pnenix Hotel, 

Eagle Hotel, 

New Hampshire House, 
Biddle House, 

Rockwell House, 

First National Hotel, 
Sherwood Forests, 

Oak wood House, 

White River Hotel, 
American House, 

Island Pond House, 
Mount Belknap House, 
Laconia House, 

Buck’s Hotel, 

McAllister House, 
Merrimac House, 


Montreal, P. Q., 
Milford, Mass., 
Minneapolis, Minn., 
Marquette, Mich., 
Madison, Wis., 


Montreal House, 
Milford House, 
Niccolett House, 
Northwestern Hotel, 
Park Hotel, 

The Vilas House, 
Bishop’s Hotel, 

Parker House, 

Spring Hotel, 
Mempbremagog House, 

** ** He* I I f* V Ilf* HoiKP 

North Stratford, N. H., Williard House,’ 


Montpelier, Vt., 

New Bedford, Mass., 
Newbury, Vt., 
Newport, Vt., 


Omaha, Neb., 
Philadelphia, Pa., 
Pittsfield, N. H., 
Portland, Me., 
Portland, Me., 

Port Huron, Mich., 
Providence, Ii. I., 
Quebec, P. Q., 


Grand Central Hotel, 
Colonnade Hotel, 
Washington House, 
Preble House, 

United States Hotel, 
Huron House, 

Central House, 

St. Louis Hotel, 


Prop, and Man. 

Charles L. Carter. 

J. M. Cotton. 

J. F. Barden. 

Chas. G. Lawrence. 

P. B. Parson* & Co. 

J. Pickering Draper. 
Lewis Rice & Son. 
Stumcke & Goodwin. 
Bell & Johnson. 

D. 0. Barber & Co. 

J. Roessle & Son. 

J. L. Huntress. 

S. F. Emery. 

, J. B Drake. 

Potter Palmer. 
Gilmour & Sons. 

I. W. Cook. 

E. F. Bailey. 

J. R. Crocker. 

John A. White. 

W. J. Walker. 

J. M. Maxwell. 
Rockwell Bros. 

J. E. Do we. 

J. C. Sherwood. 
Dauiel Greenway. 

C. W. Pease. 

E. B. Sawyer. 

Bartlett & Stone. 

D. B. Story. 

Elkins Bros. 

F. P. Buck, 

C. E. McAllister. 
Emery & Nute. 

G. M. Burleigh. 
Decker & Co. 
Hapgood Brothers. 
McKibbiu & Vosbury. 
Earn ham Lyon. 

M. H. Irish. 

P. B. Parsons & Co. 

H. H. Bishop. 

H. M. Brownell. 

R. W. Chamberlain 
W. F. Bowman. 

H. Beau. 

E. H. Folsom. 

Geo. Thrall. 

John Crump. 

T. B. Tucker. 

M. S. Gibsou & Co. 

T. Walcott. 

George Knill. 

Hopkius & Sears. 
Willis Russell. 



HOTEL TABLET 


15 


Quebec, P. Q., 
Rochester, N. H., 
Rockland, Me., 

Rutland, Vt., 

Salisbury, Vt., 
Sherbrooke, P. Q., 

i( a 

South Vernon, Vt., 
Sparta, Wis., 

Salt Lake City, Utab, 
St. Louis? Mo., 

St. Albans, Vt., 
Springfield, Mass , 
Stockton, Me., Ft. Point 
St. Johnsbury, Vt., 
Stowe, Vt., 

Toronto, Ont., 
Vergennes, Vt., 
WasJnngton, D. C., 
Watertown June., Wis. 
Worcester, Mass., 
Woodsville, N. H., 
Wolleborough, N. H., 

44 44 

66 66 

66 66 

Williams town, Mass., 
White River June., Vt. 


Russell House, 
Hodge’s Hotel, 

Lynde’s Hotel, 

Bates House, 

Lake Bunmore Hotel, 
Continental Hotel, 
Sherbrooke House, 
South Vernon House, 
Warner House, 
Walker House, 
Southern Hotel, 
Welden House, 
Massasoit House, 

, Wassaumkeag House, 
St. Johnsbury House, 
Mt. Mansfield Hotel, 
Queen’s Hotel, 
Stevens House, 

The Arlington, 

Bay State House, 

Bay State House, 
Parker House, 
Pavillion Hotel, 
Glenden Hotel, 
Belvue House, 

Lake View House, 
Greyloek Hall, 
Junction House, 


Willis Bussell. 

J. T. Dodge. 

G. A. Lyncfi. 

I, . F. Page. 

E. P. Hitchcock. 

P. A. Camirand. 

W. Chamberlain. 

D. L. Priest. 

Elias Hotchkiss. 
Lavelle, Warner k Co. 
T. Lavender. 

M. & E. P. Chapin. 

D. W. Kanlet. 

Geo. B. Walker. 

N. P. Keeler, 

Thos. McGaw. 

S. S. Gaines. 

T. Roessle & Son. 

N. W. Pieice. 

Horace Baines & Co. 

E. G. Parker. 

A. L. Howe. 

J. L. Peavey. 

Daniel Horn. 

F. J. Lucas. s 
Streeter & .swift. 

A. T. & O. F. Barron. 


WHITE MOUNTAIN HOTELS. 


Bethlehem, N. H., 


Carroll, N. H., 


Conway, N. H., 

44 44 

Franconia Notch, N. El., 
Jeflerson, N. H., 


Lancaster, N. H., 
Littleton, N. H., 

44 (4 

Mt. Washington Sum’t, 
North Conway, N. H., 


Plymouth, N. H , 
West Ossipee, N. H., 
Warren, N. H , 
Gorham, N. H., 


Sinclair House, 
Maplewood Hotel, 
Prospect House, 

Mt. Agassiz House, 
Fabyan Elouse, 

White Mountain House, 
Twin Mountain House, 
Crawfoid House, 
Conway House, 
Pequaket House, 

Profile House, 
Waumbek House, 
Plaisted House, 

Starr King Mt. House, 
Mt. Adams House, 
Lancaster House, 

Otk Hill House, 

Union House, 

Mt. Washington House, 
Kiarsarge House, 
Eiandali House, 
Intervale House, 
McMillan House, 
Eastman House, 

Mason Hotel, 
Pemigewasset House, 
Bear camp House, 
Moosilauk House, 

Glen House, 

Gorham House, 


Durgin & Fox. 

Isaac S. Crufts. 

Geo. W. Phillips, 

Cyrus E. Bunker. 
Lindsey, French & Co. 

R. D. Kounsvei. 

A. T. & O. F. Barron. 

44 4 • • 6 

L. H. Elastman. 

D. E. Pend.xier. 

Taft Green leaf. 

W H. Merrill. 

B. F. Flaisted. 

C. K. Gile. 

Wm. Cravvsliaw. 

B. H. Corning. 

Geo. Farr & Co. 

W. Jennison. 

Mrs. J. \V. Dodge. 

S. W. & S D. Tnompson 
J. T. xvamlall. 

Stepbe j M udgett & Sons 
tlolin McMillan. 

E". J. Lucas. 

F. H. Mason. 

C. M. Morse. 

J. L. Plummer. 


W. & C. R. Milliken. 
Jas. A. Callahan. 






16 


ADVERTISEMENT 



ST. LOUIS, 


Fronting on Walnut, Fourth & Fifth Sts. 


LAVEILLE, WARNER & CO., Proprietors. 



During tlie past >ear this Hotel has been thoroughly overhauled, re¬ 
painted. re-frescoed, re-carpeted and re-furnished from top to bottom, an! 
is first-class in all resp< cts. 

The ‘‘Southern Hotel » is located near the centre of business, the 
theatres, and all places of amusements. Its tables are supplied with the best 
the markets afford, and there is in the Hotel building the neatest Res- 
taurant in ilie city tor Ladies and Gentlemen. 

There have betn added twenty five bath-rooms and closets; also, fourteen 
large sample rooms on the office floor, especially suited to traveling men 
who have goods to show. 

The proprietors are determined that the “Southern Hotel’’ shall 
be among the best hotels of the country, and hope to greet their old friends, 
as well as many new ones, promising every attention that will add to their 
comfort and make them feel at home. 

There is an im; rov* d elevator leading from the first floor. Railroad and 
steamboat ticket offices, news stand, and Western Union Telegraph office 
in rotunda of Hotel. 






































































































CHAPTER I. 


THE START EROM HEW YORK. 


Many who gather from the south and west to the grand centre 
of the nation, with the actual dwellers therein, will choose to 
take the initial stage of their journey to rural summer retreats 
by boat-trip through Long Island Sound, on some one of the safe 
and palatial Steamers running in connection-with the railways 
from New London, Stonington, Newport, Providence, or Fall 
River—through lines to the mountains, or the interior. 

These Steamers leave their piers, on North or Hudson River, 
at 5 o’clock, p. m., and make passage through East River in the 
waning day, giving an agreeable change from the crowded streets 
and heated pavements of the great City, to the coolness of an 
open harbor and the breath of sea-breezes. 

The observing stranger will find this trip one of rarest interest 
from the start. The rounding of the southern point of the city, 
the glance down the magnificent bay, the circular and frowning 
walls of the Battery, Castle Garden, Governor’s Island, 
with the batteries of Castle William, and the many points of 
interest, which were the centres of life and business in the New 
York of former years, are here observed. 

Through East River the magnificent Steamer ploughs its way, 
crossing the line of numerous ferries which connect the first city 
in the United States with Brooklyn—the third in population— 
soon to be joined to the metropolis by an immense Bridge already 
in process of building. 

The River, alive with a moving fleet of shipping, has, lying 
2 




18 


THE START FROM NEW YORK. 


along its miles of water-front, ships and steamers from every 
quarter of the world, laden with the riches of every land, and the 
products of every industry. 

The bold Heights of Brooklyn, to the right, are crowned with 
elegant residences, while the Hocks and Navy Yard—one of the 
great Naval Stations of the country—the islands, with the public 
institutions thereon, all form a scene which can but interest those 
to whom the sight is not made familiar by daily observance. 

The stranger, who tarries in the city, will get his best view Of 
the metropolis and surroundings from Trinity steeple, or a more 
distinct one from Brooklyn Heights. If he is interested in art 
and modern improvement, he will find in the Parks, Museums, 
Public Institutions and pleasure resorts of this national centre of 
business life, attractions unequalled elsewhere in the country. If, 
on the other hand, he is attracted by points of historic interest 
and old associations, he may visit the sites where Washington, 
John Adams, Alexander Hamilton and Aaron Burr lived in the 
early days of the Metropolis; where the Father of his Country 
held his court, was elected President, and bade farewell to his 
officers. The graves of Alexander Hamilton, Commodore Law¬ 
rence, and many others of wide fame, are in Trinity Churchyard. 

He may also, in summer, take pleasure trips up the wonderful 
Hudson Elver, on which its discoverer sailed of old, in the 
staunch “ Half Moon,” under the firm belief that he had /ound 
the long sought passage to China. The grandeur of the High¬ 
lands along the banks of the Hudson is unsurpassed, and each 
headland and crag has its historic associations or pleasing le¬ 
gends ; for here the fine fancy of Irving wove his dreamy yet 
delightful tales. 

He may also take a sail down the grand harbor to Long 
Branch, or to the many suburban points of interest which can¬ 
not be here mentioned, even by name. 

But, returning to the boat on which we have taken passage, 
and steaming on in stately strength through East Eiver, past the 
extensive corrective and reformatory institutions on Blackwell’s 
and Bandall’s Islands, the once perilous passage at “ Hell 
Gate” is reached—six miles from New York, famous for the 
perils here encountered by the early Dutch navigators; this tor- 


THE START FROM NEW YORK. 


19 


tuous passage, which has since been a bar to commerce, will 
soon become a thing of the past, and yield to the force of genius 
and nitro-glycerine. 

At Throgg’s Neck, thirteen miles from New York, commanded 
by the guns af Fort Schuyler, you enter the waters of 

LONG ISLAND SOUND. 

This important inland highway for navigation, between the 
national centre of commerce and trade and New England, is 
somewhat over one hundred miles in length, and, at its broadest, 
from twenty to thirty miles in width, and is navigable for the 
largest craft. The superior harbors are within the irregular out¬ 
line of the northern coast, which is studded with important 
towns and cities and popular resorts. 

The pulses of the iron monster beat on through the night; the 
prow steadily cleaves the waves, and the glimmering wake fol¬ 
lows in dying perspective, whether you sleep or wake. There is 
rest for those who prefer it, and grandeur and beauty for those 
who appreciate the sombre glory of the moonlit sea. 

Your choice of rail routes having been made, you will find your 
further progress fully described under the head of “ Routes,” laid 
out in the. folio wing pages. 


ROUTE. 

From New York to Concord , N. H. 

By Boat and Rail from New York by the Norwich 
Line of Steamers, via Worcester and Nashua. 

These fine boats, “City of New York” and “City of Boston,” 
leave Pier No. 40, North River, at 5 o’clock, p. m. They have 
































VIA NORWICH 


21 




all the appointments and conveniences to be found upon the 
boats of any inland waters, passing in full view of the great city, 
the surrounding objects of interest and the suburban towns along 
the Long Island shore, more fully described in the opening pages. 
Passengers by this route incur little risk from storms or incon¬ 
venience from rough weather; arriving at New London at 4 
o’clock A. m. ; White Mountain Express train leaving at 5 o’clock 
A. m. ; thence by the Norwich and Worcester Railway, with ele¬ 
gant parlor cars, which are not excelled, if equalled, by those of 
any line, to Worcester —the heart of the Commonwealth— 













22 ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO CONCORD, N. H. 


(receiving at this point the travel centreing here from converging 
roads,) and after taking time for breakfast at the BAY STATE 
HOUSE, proceed by Worcester & Nashua Railway to Ayer’s 
Junction, (connecting there with train from Fitchburg,) to 
Nashua, (connecting with through White Mountain Express 
trains from Boston,) and Manchester, along the valley of the 
Merrimack River, (receiving at Manchester passengers from 
Portsmouth and the East, and from Boston via Lawrence,) pro¬ 
ceed, stopping only at important points, to Concord, Lake 
Winnipesaukee, Plymouth, (dining station,) Littleton, (from 
here to Profile House by stage,) Bethlehem, Twin Mountain 
House, Fabyan House Station, (nearest to Mount Washington,) 
and Crawford House at the Notch, and Mount Washington 
House on summit of Mount Washington, or to Lancaster (stage 
from here to Jefferson Hill,) and Northumberland—junction 
with Grand Trunk Railway for Montreal or Quebec. 

Note. —An Express train, connecting with this line of boats, leaves New 
London at 5 o’clock A. M., giving a full night’s rest on the boat, and pro¬ 
ceeds, by continuous express trains (parlor cars run through) without delay 
to the Mountains. 

Norwich is at the head of navigation on the Thames River, thirteen 
miles from New London. The location is commanding, built upon the 
steep hillside, lying between the rivers which unite to form the Thames. 
The manufacturing portion of the town is in a valley enclosed by hills. 
Cottons, woolens, paper and machinery are the chief products. The terri¬ 
tory comprised in the town was purchased of Uncas and his sons for the 
sum of seventy pounds. A large banking and insurance business is carried 
on at this place. The “Tails of the Yantic ” are about a mile from its out¬ 
let, and should be visited by those who tarry here. 



Norwich Line , New York to the White Mountains. 

Leave New London at 5 A. m., by White Mountains Express, for Worcester, Clinton, Nashua, Manchester, 
Concord, Lake Winnipesaukee, Plymouth, (dine), Littleton, Lancaster and Twin Mountain and Fabyan 

Houses. 








































































































































































































ROUTE. 

From New York to Concord , N. H. 

By Boat and Rail from New York via Stonington 
Line of Steamers. 

Leave Pier No; 33, North River, at 5 o’clock p. M.,by either of 
the safe and elegant boats of this line — the “Narragansett,” _ 
“Stonington” and “Rhode Island,” passing in full view of the 
great Metropolis and the scenery of this interesting locality, ar¬ 
riving at Stonington at 4.30 A. m., thence proceeding by White 
Mountains through express train, with elegant parlor cars through 
to the mountains. 

At Providence passengers have thirty minutes for breakfast. 
The route thence is over the Boston & Providence, Mansfield) 
Framingham & Lowell and Nashua & Acton Railways to 
Nashua, thence northward to Concord, thence over the Boston, 
Concord & Montreal Railroad to Plymouth (dine), Littleton, 
(stage from this point to Franconia and the Profile House), or to 
Twin Mountain House, Fabyan House, Crawford House, 
and Mt. Washington Summit, or to Lancaster, (stage to Jefferson 
Hill), and to Junction with Grand Trunk Railroad at Northumber¬ 
land. 


i 

EOUTE. 

From New York to Concord , N. H. 

By Boat and Rail from New York via Fall River 
Line of Steamers. 

Starting at 5 o’clock, p. m., from New York, Piers No. 28 and 
30, North River, these palatial boats, the finest that float upon 
inland waters — the “ Bristol ” and “ Providence,” each furnished 
with an excellent band of music during the season of summer 
travel, and with large state-rooms lighted by gas, will proceed 
through the whole length of the Sound and Narragansett Bay, 



Steamer “Bristol.” 


affording fine views of the Metropolis and surroundings de¬ 
scribed in the preceding pages, giving a longer sail, and less dis- 
, tance by rail, with same time and fare as other routes, and arrive 
at Fall River—the champion manufacturing city of New Eng¬ 
land — on Mount Hope Bay, an arm of Narragansett Bay, at the 
confluence of Taunton and Fall Rivers, at about 4 o’clock, A. m. 

Here take the fine parlor cars of the Old Colony Railroad, built 
expressly for this line, and proceed by fast express trains to Bos¬ 
ton, over the safe road-bed of this popular line. 



















26 ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO CONCORD, N. H. 



Interior View of Grand Saloon. 

Passengers are transferred to the Boston & Lowell Railroad 
Station, where, in elegant reception rooms and dining hall, they 
have ample time for breakfast. Here take the parlor cars of this 
first-class line and proceed by express train, stopping only at im¬ 
portant points, to Concord, thence over the Boston, Concord & 
Montreal Railroad to Lake Winnipesaukee, Plymouth, Littleton, 
(from here to Profile House by stage), Bethlehem, Twin Mountain 
Station, Fabyan House Station, (presentterminus of the Moun¬ 
tain branch, and nearest to Mount Washington and the Crawford 
House at White Mountain Notch,) Mount Washington Railway 
Station at Marshfield, up Mount Washington Railroad to summit, 
or to the Crawford House at the Notch, or to Lancaster, (stage 
from here to Jefferson Hill), and Northumberland—junction with 
Grand Trunk Railway for Montreal or Quebec. 
















































ROUTE. 

From New York to Concord, N. H. 

All Rail Day Route from New York to the Mountains. 

i 

Leave New York by express train via Springfield, Worcester 
and Nashua, from the Grand Central Depot, Forty-second street, 
at 10 o’clock, a. m., ("fast express,) by New York & New Haven 
Railroad via New Haven and Hartford, and arriving at Spring- 
field at 1 o’clock, in time for dinner at that excellent hotel, the 
Massasoit house; thence proceeding via Worcester, (receiving 



MASS ASOIT HOUSE. 


travel from connecting roads,) Nashua, via Worcester & Nashua 
Railroad, joining at Nashua the express from Boston, Manchester, 
and along the Merrimack valley to Concord; and from that point 
: continue by the Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad, reach- 
| ing Plymouth, N. H., the same evening; stopping at the famous 
! Pemigewasset House for the night, and continuing the journey 
K to the Mountains in the morning. There is also an evening train, 

| leaving New York at 8 p. m. This is the only rail route by which 
passengers can travel the entire distance by express trains and 
parlor cars. 














28 ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO CONCORD, N. H. 


Note. —This route, taking the morning train, conveys the passenger 
through the interesting portion of Connecticut and Massachusetts, the fair 
capital city of New Haven, appropriately called the “ Elm City,” held in 
memory by the many graduates of the famed and ancient Yale College, 
founded in 1700. From New Haven to the twin capital city of Hartford, 
calling up remembrances of the “Convention” and Charter Oak, and 
noted for the elaborate architecture of its elegant and permanent build¬ 
ings, the wealth of its people and the collossal and substantial growth of its 
Life and Fire Insurance Companies. The manufactures are extensive, in¬ 
cluding Colt’s immense pistol works, covering one hundred and twenty-five 
acres, Sharpe’s rifle factory and a wide variety of other interests. Central 
Park contains forty-six acres and is an attractive spot. The splendid rail¬ 
road station will attract your attention, and you pass on to Springfield 
through the finest portion of the Connecticut Valley. Henceforth Hartford 
is to be the sole capital of the State. 

Springfield, located on the east bank of the Connecticut, is an impor¬ 
tant railroad centre, noted for the beauty of its location, and chiefly for the 
United States Armory, the only considerable government manufactory of 
small arms in the country, there located. The buildings of the armory have 
an elevated location in the easterly portion of the city, and are well worth 
a visit; here also are the extensive car works of the Wason Manufacturing 
Company, and Smith & Wesson’s pistol works, both noted manufactories. 

Worcester, the heart of the Commonwealth, is an important railroad 
and trade centre, as a glance at the map will show you, and one of the most 
important inland cities in New England, manufacturing iron goods, tools 
and machinery in wide variety. The people have a large average of wealth 
and are an enterprising, live and liberal community. The manufacture of 
wire of all kinds is extensively carried on here. 


ROUTE. 

From New York to Concord , N II.—Shore Line. 

All Rail Route from New York to the White and 
Franconia Mountains. 

Leave New York, via Shore Line, from the Grand Central 
Station, Forty-second street, at 8 o’clock, p. m., via New 
York & New Haven Railroad, proceeding by express train in 
Wagner’s sleeping cars, via Bridgeport, New Haven, New London^ 
Stonington and Providence, along the shore of Long Island 
Sound and Narragansett Bay, an exceedingly pleasant route 
with no vexatious delays, and superior accommodations for com¬ 
fort, through a network of thriving towns and cities (of which 
the space of our hand-book does not permit description). The 
route is noticeable for its coolness and freedom from dust. 

Taking ample time for rest in the fine reception rooms, and for 
breakfast in the depot dining-rooms at Providence, leave that 
point by the express train at 6.20, A. m., via Mansfield, Framing¬ 
ham, (connecting with train from New York, via Springfield,) 
Lowell, Nashua, via Nashua & Acton Railroad, or 6.25, a. m., 
via Providence & Worcester Railroad, via Worcester and Clin¬ 
ton; thence to Nashua, Manchester, and along the Merrimack 
valley to Concord, N. H., from which point the route to the lake 
and mountains is described in the succeeding pages. 





ROUTE. 

From Providence , B. I., to the Mountains , Montreal or Quebec. 

Via Worcester. 

Leave Providence in the morning (see time tables), via Provi¬ 
dence & Worcester Railway, in elegant Parlor Cars built 
expressly for this line, stopping only at important points, con¬ 
necting at Worcester with the through White Mountains express 
train via Worcester and Nashua. This route from Providence to 
Worcester is through the fine section of country which may be 
said to be a series of manufacturing villages. The accommodations 
are first-class in every respect. Leave Worcester at 8 o’clock, a.m., 
and passing directly on via Worcester & Nashua Railroad, 
to Nashua, Manchester, and Concord; thence northward to 
Lake Winnipesaukee, Plymouth, Littleton, Franconia Notch, 
the White Mountains, Lancaster, Northumberland,— uniting at 
this junction with the Grand Trunk Railway for the Canadian 
cities. 

Note.—Providence is the principal port of entry and one of the capital 
cities of Rhode Island, and is the second city in population and wealth in 
New England. The location is upon both sides of Providence river, which 
is crossed by wide and commodious bridges. Its first settlement in 1636, 
by Roger Williams — exiled from Massachusetts for religious heresies — is 
too familiar to need repetition. The rock on which he landed, on the bank 
of Seconk river, is still pointed out. The City Hotel is a first-class house 
where every comfort is provided, L. H. Humphreys, proprietor. 

Brown University is one of the noted Colleges of the country, and the 
Educational and Charitable Institutions of the city are numerous, and lib¬ 
erally endowed. An extensive network of railroads terminates here, hav¬ 
ing a central station in the heart of the city, and steamers run to Bristol, 
Newport, Fall River, Warwick, Rocky Point and various places on Narra- 
gansett Bay. A sail down the bay should, by all means, be taken. 



Leaves Providence 6.30 a. m. on White Mountains Express Train, via Providence & Worcester and 
Worcester & Nashua Railroad. Dine at Pemigewasset House. Arrive at Twin Mountain House 4p. m., 
Fabyan House 4.30 p. m. 



































































































































































































d 


ROUTE. 

From Providence and Pawtucket, R. I., New Bedford, Fall River 
and Newport , to the White and Franconia Mountains , 
Montreal and Quebec. 

Via Mansfield, Framingham and Nashua. 

Leave Providence, Pawtucket, New Bedford, Fall River and 
Newport, (see time tables), via Mansfield & Framingham, and 
Nashua & Acton Railroads in elegant Parlor Cars, built for 
this line with all the modern improvements contributing to the 
comfort and safety of patrons of the route, passing directly on to 
Nashua, Manchester and Concord — thence northward to Lake 
Winnipesaukee, Plymouth, Littleton, Franconia Notch, the White 
and Franconia Mountains, Lancaster, Northumberland Junction, 
(uniting here with Grand Trunk Railway for the Canadas.) 

Note. —Few strangers will wish to leave Providence without visiting 
Newport, the elegaht and fashionable New England watering place. A 
line of steamboats run regularly in the season ot travel. A century ago it was 
a rival of New York in its foreign commerce. The town was virtually de¬ 
stroyed by the British in 1779 and two-thirds of the population deserted the 
place. Of late many elegant residences have been erected upon the eleva¬ 
tions overlooking the sea. The town is rich in historical associations and 
localities and objects of rare interest. There is an inner and outer harbor, 
forming one of the finest in the country, each surrounding point and head¬ 
land fraught with historic interest. The older portion of the city is crowded 
and ancient in appearance; the new town is built with liberal breadth of 
streets ami display of architectural taste and elegance. The fleets of the 
world could ride at anchor in the deep and spacious harbor; the Forts, an¬ 
cient and modern, the mysterious “Old Stone Mill,” the carefully preserved 
printing press on which Ben. Franklin worked in 1772 are important among 
the many sights not to be overlooked during your stay. 



Runs on White Mountains Express Train, Stonington Line. Leaving Stonington 4.30 A. m., Provi¬ 
dence G.20 a. m. 




















































































































































































































































































ROUTE. 


From Boston to the White and Franconia Mountains, Montreal, 
and Quebec. 


Via Lowell. 

Leave Boston by the Boston & Lowell Railroad, from the mag¬ 
nificent new passenger station, Causeway Street, at 8 o’clock a. m. 



o *9 

~ 9 

11 
8 3 


§ 3 ^ 

o fe: ^ 

« Z * 

t€ °8 -3 


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- E 


£ £ 




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co O 

« 4 


a o 
£ feo § 

fl C cJ 

! § * 

s p ^ 


g § -2 
^ ^ > 









































































































Runs on White Mountains Express train, leaving Boston from Lowell Depot, at 8 A. m., 12 m., via Bos¬ 
ton, Concord, Montreal & White Mountains Railroad, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays; “Mt. 
Lafayette,” Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays for White and Franconia Mountains. 






















































































































































































































86 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE MOUNTAINS, 

Leave Boston by the Boston & Lowell Railroad, from the mag¬ 
nificent new passenger station, Causeway Street, at 8 o’clock a. m. 
This new Passenger Station is the finest in New England, and 
perhaps, in the United States; is complete in all its arrangements 
for the comfort and convenience of patrons of this line; has fine 
reception rooms and restaurants; is beautiful and unique in the 
style of architecture, and rich and ornamental in material of con¬ 
struction. The roof, being of glass, gives a pleasing and cheerful 
light not often seen in buildings of this class, and dispels that 
depressing gloom which often shadows the waiting traveller. 

Leaving this station the stranger looks with interest to the 
right upon historic ground in Charlestown, with the plain shaft 
on Bunker Ilill rising now and then into view; the McLean 
Asylum for the Insane at Somerville will also be noticed, and you 
pass on to Lowell over one of the oldest lines of railway in the 
country, and, in the new improved parlor and fine monitor-top 
cars of the line, with no delays, excepting the necessary stoppages 
and for dinner, you take your journey to the mountains, by the 
express train, and are made as comfortable as modern enterprise 
can make you, with the added charm of a pleasant country on 
either hand as you thread the valley of the Merrimack. 



The Merrimac House, Lowell. 


MONTREAL AND QUEBEC, YIA LOWELL. 


37 


At Lowell the Concord river unites with the Merrimack, fur¬ 
nishing the extensive water-power of this great manufacturing 
site. Fifteen millions of capital are invested and fifteen thousand 
people are here employed in the extensive mills. 

From Lowell, after receiving travel from Salem, over the 
Salem & Lowell Railroad, thence along the Merrimack to Nashua, 
(uniting here with New York and White Mountains Express via 
Norwich and Stonington lines,) another of the thriving cities 
developed on the water-powers of the Merrimack, where we find 
the productions of the mills and shops not confined to the 
specialty of cotton fabrics, but ranging over a wide list of the 
useful and ornamental, the massive and the diminutive. 

From Nashua there is little of special interest until Manchester 
is reached—the largest city of the old Granite State. Though 
cotton manufacture may be considered the special feature 
of the products of Manchester, yet the locomotive works 
are of great importance. The Amoskeag Manufacturing Com¬ 
pany have three millions of dollars in their business of man¬ 
ufacturing steam fire engines, machinery, and a wide diversity of 
products. Some ten miles west of Manchester are the two con¬ 
siderable peaks known as the “ Twin Uncanoonucks,” said to be 
the first elevations seen by mariners approaching the coast. 

The substantial stone dam at Amoskeag Falls, built in the form 
of a half circle, will be observed upon the left as the train passes 
out of the city over the smooth and substantial roadbed of the 
Concord Railroad —one of the most important short trunk 
lines in the country—and with management worthy of its im¬ 
portance. Onslow Stearns is the President, and H. E. Chamber- 
lain, Superintendent. 

The short ride to Concord is through the pleasant valley of the 
Merrimack, and past the improved water powers at Hooksett 
(observe the sharp rocky “ Pinnacle” to the left,) and Suncook; 
and from Concord northward, giving connection at Weirs with 
Steamboat on Lake Winnipesaukee for Centre Harbor, 
(stage and mail route from Centre Harbor to North Conway.) 
Also from Weirs passengers go by boat to Wolfeborough, (rail 
route from Wolfeborough to North Conway). 

From Plymouth the Pemigewasset Yalley Stage Route di- 


88 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE MOUNTAINS. 

verges through Campton, Woodstock and Lincoln to Franconia 
Notch and the Profile House. 

The train leaving Boston at 12 o’clock noon, by this route, with 
the fine parlor cars, connects with the boat on Lake Winnipe- 
saukee, at Weirs, for Centre Harbor and Wolfeborough, and con¬ 
tinues to Plymouth; also, night accommodation train over the 
Boston, Concord & Montreal connects at Concord with the 6 
o’clock trains from Bostop, from Lowell Depot, running through 
to Plymouth, N. H., the same night, and continuing to the 
mountains next morning. 


EOTTTE 


From Boston to the Mountains , Montreal and Quebec , 

Via Lawrence. 

Leave the station of the Boston & Maine Railroad, in Hay- 
market square, at 7.30 A. m. As on the Lowell route, the view 
from the car windows, to the right as you leave the city, looks 
upon the Heights in Charlestown, and the shaft of Bunker Hill 
Monument—always an object of interest. 

This route for the first twelve miles passes through the net 
work of fine suburban towns and villages that have sprung up 
along the line of all important railways centreing in the New 
England metropolis, and extending wider and in new localities as 
the years roll on. Somerville, Malden, Melrose, Wakefield and 
Reading are fine towns. The union of this road with the Salem 
& Lowell is at Wilmington Junction. Twenty-three miles 
from Boston the fine old town of Andover is reached. Here is 
the Theological Seminary founded in 1807, for the purpose of 
providing a “ learned, orthodox, and pious ministry.” It is un¬ 
der Congregational auspices, but not closed to others. The Ab¬ 
bott Female Seminary, Phillips’ Academy (’founded nearly a 
century ago), and the new Memorial Hall, which will accommo¬ 
date a free library, are of noticeable importance. The Man¬ 
sion House is a good Hotel, C. L. Carter, Proprietor. 

Reaching the Merrimack, twenty-six miles from Boston, the 
fine buildings of the great cotton and woolen mills of Lawrence 
attract attention. Younger in years than most of the cities of 
New England, Lawrence holds an important place in the produc¬ 
tion of cotton, woolen, and worsted fabrics, and the manufacture 
of paper. 

Nearly thirteen thousand operatives are employed, and twelve 
million dollars of capital are invested. The Boston & Maine 
Railroad here diverges to the eastward, on its way to Portland, 
and we continue by way of the Manchester & Lawrence Rail- 


40 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE MOUNTAINS, 


road, to Manchester, and from thence to Concord, as described in 
the route via Lowell, and on to the Mountains. 

Windham, on the Manchester & Lawrence Railroad is the 
point of intersection with the Rochester & Nashua Railroad, 
lately opened, and completing a new through line, from Portland 
to New York, directly across the country, without making the 
circuit of the Coast. 

There is also, over this route, the 12 o’clock noon train from 
Boston for Plymouth, N. IT., connecting at Weirs, on Lake Win- 
nipesaukee, with boat for Centre Harbor and Wolfeborough; and 
5 o’clock night train from Boston running through to Plymouth 
same as by the Lowell route, and continuing from Plymouth to 
the mountains the following morning. 

Boston. —Either going or returning from the lakes and mountains, the 
stranger will wish to tarry for a short time in this good old city—the me¬ 
tropolis of New England. Philadelphia was a forest and New York an 
insignificant village long after Boston had become an important commer¬ 
cial town. This ancient and honorable city has, by natural growth, and by 
absorbing surrounding towns, become the fourth city in population in the 
Union, and is one of the first in point of average wealth and the culture 
and enterprise of its citizens. 

The old revolutionary associations, the hallowed sites and many o' jects 
of interest in, and in the near vicinity of the city, attract the intelligent 
stranger. It is the second city in commercial importance in the United 
States, and in the culture of its peojde, the extent and grandeur of its 
charities and institutions, and the solidity of its finances, it has no rival. 

Among the many places and points of interest, which strangers will 
visit, are Faneuil Hall—the old cradle of liberty — the Old South 
Church, under the shadow of which Franklin was born; the City 
Hall, with the Franklin Statue, on School Street; the new Post 
Office Building on Devonshire Street; Music Hall, with the Great 
Organ, off Winter Street; the Athenaeum on Tremont Street; the Public 
Library on Boylston Street, and the Institute of Technology on Common¬ 
wealth Avenue. The outlook from the cupola of the State House is one of 
rare interest. 

The world renowned Boston Common with the “ Old Elm ” where witches 
were hung, and beneath which Whitfield preached, an enclosure of forty- 
eight acres, is a spot more universally loved and resorted to by Bostonians 
and New Englanders than any other, being easily reacliod from any quarter 
of the city. The modern Public Garden, an enclosure of twenty-two acres, 
adjoining the Common, with the artistic arrangements of its walks and 
pmds and fine statuary, is worth a visit. 


MONTREAL AND QUEBEC, YIA LAWRENCE 


41 


In the old Cemetery on Copp’s Hill are the graves of Cotton and Increase 
Mather and others known to fame. In the “Granary Burying Ground,” 
on Tremont Street, are the graves of a long line of colonial Governors, of 
the patriot Paul Revere, the famous patriot Statesmen John Hancock and 
Samuel Adams, and the parents of Benjamin Franklin. 

Bunker Hill, in the Charlestown District, Avill be visited by all lovers of 
country; the outlook gained by ascending the monument is one of the 
finest to be found. While here, visit also the Navy Yard and Dock, im¬ 
portant among the naval stations of the country. 

A trip to Cambridge, the site of Harvard College, where may be seen the 
old “ Washington Htad-quarters,” the noted Elm under which Washing¬ 
ton assumed chief command, and Mount Auburn Cemetery, the resting 
place for the dead, made attractive and beautiful by lavish expenditure 
and cultured taste. 

To the man of wealth, leisure and culture, perhaps no city in America 
has so many advantages as a place of residence as Boston, and no city in 
the country has, in its immediate vicinity, or within a circuit of twenty 
miles, so complete a network of cities and towns of importance, desirable 
as places of residence, beautiful and attractive in location and convenience 
of access. 

Summer excursions by steamboat to Hull, Hingham and Nahant, and 
trips among the islands and return, are made daily, from different points, 
and are patronized by the best of people. 

In the matter of Hotels, Boston has many worthy of its fame. 

The American House, Lewis Rice & Son, Proprietors, on Hanover 
Street, is first-class in its appointments, central in location and managed 
by popular and well known gentlemen. 

The Revere House, Tremont House, Evans House, Parker 
House, United States Hotel, (opposite Boston & Albany R. R. Station), 
the Commonwealth, Sr. Jamex and Clarendon Hotels are among the 
most central and best managed of the popular Hotels, with others of, per¬ 
haps, equal merit, which want of space forbids mentioning. 


J 



American House 







































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































tO^OOiOOOrf^CSOOOOOtt'O 


& 55 Si ® 00 CO to 


to to 























































































MORMON TABERNACLE, SALT LAKE CITY. 


lhe quaint and peculiar city of Great 
Salt Lake — the home of the peculiar sect 
who have made them a home in the desert, 
is one of the objective points sought by all 
tourists, lie ached by Chicago & Northwest¬ 
ern and Union Pacific Railroads. 




1000 MILE TREE. 


This famous tree is a prominent land¬ 
mark on the Union Pacific Railroad, and is 
hailed with pleasure by those who have 
looked upon the treeless waste ot country 
preceding it. 



CHURCH BUTTES. Union Pacific JR. li. 


One of the remarkable features of 
scenery viewed by those who cross the 
continent via the Chicago & Northwest¬ 
ern Railroad. 



WEST FROM TUNNEL No. 4. Union Pacific K. K. 


One of the fair scenes which the trav¬ 
eler sees on the line of the Union Pacific 
Railroad on the trip across the continent 
from Chicago by Chicago & Northwestern 
and Union Pacific Railrosids. 



FINGER ROCK. Union Pacific R, R. 


Many bold and peculiar features of rock 
formation are seen by the passengers on the 
Union Pacific Railroad, among which the 
above is one of note. 



SENTINEL ROCK, ECHO CANON. Union Pacific IlTR.' 


Sentinel Rock is but one of the peculiar 
rocky towers noticeable among the count¬ 
less objects of interest along the line taken 
by parties making the trip across the conti¬ 
nent from Chicago to San Francisco, via 
Chicago & Northwestern and Union Pacific 
Railroads. 




’Riviere (lit 


Bathurst 


St .Rascal 


Montmadny 


'Chnudicrc »Tc. 


Three \ 
Rivers 


Doucet’ 


Woodstock 


Shediae 

Painscc 


Boulton 


Aston 


Debee 


•Arthabaska 


Salisbury 


Hillsboro 


.3 /oosehetul X. _paniedecodk X. 


f ft^\Frederickton 7c. 


Amherst 


Richmond 


TRUNK 


Svsstx 


OUANI 


Bancroft 


McAdam «Jc. 


~1 Vaterloo 


T Tails Jc. 


;nox“V. 


^ST.JOHN, 


Abbot 


tfW.Farriham 


.Princeton 


St. Andrews 


liiulsoryj 


v ss-° J)exter 
Skoivheyan 


•rwick 


Old Towl 


it ieh ford 


Hiistport 


BANGOR 


Northumberland 


fewjjorl 


Bachias 


Canton 


Jurnham 


Buckport 


Annapolis 


Hardwick 


jjWater 
f Belfast 

AtJOUSTA M- 

Rockland 


X*neril t 


fgaulnfor [- 


Mechanics TT 


.Couw'ayX \ 
a Ossipee\ 1 


Bethel 


Bristol 


^Rutland 


Barr, C,„^ 


^aco 


JLudlowi 


Clartrnont 


cos. * 

IIil/sborcB\ 


rtuinouth 


Bellows Falls 


ManchesterV^ 
; t 1 

Windhalm / 
< 5 * iiiui-oiA A 

^ nashuaW 

? liolli! 


'Sandown 


twburyport 
■—Jlru k/iurt 


.Adams 


\rnham 


eCowcTl 

^Lviam/ 


Hillers Lanca*t*ri 

V. Clinton X 

/l Sterling Jc.^ 

XX Oakdale^ 

Worcester^ 


N.llamptoj 


Palmer 


[edfield^ 


Iludsot 


Westfield 


jouth • AYtHflee! 


uillerto 


Winsted 


irleans 


PROV. 


Poughlyepsie J A . 

/ / PlliinVsha 


^Morwich. 
riddle T. ( 


Green: 


Hampton 




f GVLF OF 

J ST. L A WHENCE 

4- M Ml) 


'^EAGLK j yrandl-atl. 

,i.lA US j I J > " / ^filL ,_ 

rl} \ Hi chib ucto^ y 

l)B R r X SAJf UkI 'cyaL,,. 




AuSdbleJl .) — 




* SheTbcrnh ' ' / / 

W. %A' X/ 


XMo 

_2^ 


LIVERPOOL -- 


MAP OP THE ) j j 


WORCESTER & NASHUA 

-AND 

PORTLAND & ROCHESTER 

/ Railroads " X. 'X 

((( A,, ;^ E J)) 


/ Railroads X \ 

( ( Allt LINE J ) 

V. V_ FROM 7 / 

New York via Worcester 

( ( ( QsV TO^'/VI) > 1 > 

PORTUND and BANGOR. 


Rand,McNally & Co.,Map Engr%Chlcago 


THE NEW, POPULAR AND FAVORITE ROUTE! 


Refer to the Map and satisfy yourself that the 

PORTLAND £ WORCESTER LINE 

And its connections, forms the only direct and the most attractive Route from 

NEW YORK, HARTFORD, SPRINGFIELD, PROVI- 
DENCE AND WORCESTER 

-TO- 


PORTLAND, BANCOR, FORT POINT, MOUNT DESERT, MOOSEHEAD 
LAKE, MACHIAS, ST. JOHNS AND HALIFAX. 


Also to hake Winnipesaukee, North Conway, Gorham, White and Franconia Mountains, Lake Memphremagog, Montreal 

and Quebec, and to the Lower St. Lawrence and Saguenay Rivers. 


CONTINUOUS EXPRESS TRAINS, NEW AND ELEGANT COACHES AND PARLOR CARS. 

RELIABLE AND COURTEOUS EMPLOYEES. A SAFE AND WELL BALLASTED ROADBED. 

THE THREE REQUISITES OF MODERN TRAVEL ATTAINED— 



No Transfers with attendant expense and inconvenience by this Line. No Delays. Two Through Express Trains each way daily. 


CALL FOR TICKETS, 



For Sale at all General and Railroad Ticket Offices in the United States and Canadas. 


FARE AS LOW AS BY OTHER ROUTES. 


C. S. TURNER, - - Worcester, Mass. 

SUPT. WORCESTER, & NASHUA R. R. 

C. A. WAITE, Gen’l Ticket Agent, - - - Worcester, Mass. 
J. M. WILLIAMS, Gen’l Freight Agent, - “ “ 


WM. H. TURNER, - - Portland, Me. 

SUPT. PORTLAND & ROCHESTER R. R. 

JOSEPH W. PETERS, Gen’l Ticket Agent, - Portland, Maine. 
SAMUEL LIBBEY, Gen’l Freight Agent, - - 































































CHAPTER II. 


NOETHEEIST PLEASURE TEAVEL, 

NEW HAMPSHIRE. 


The ancient name of New Hampshire, or of the old province 
which comprised it, was Laconia — so called by reason of the 
great lakes therein. It was enfeoffed to Capt. John Mason, with 
Sir Ferdinando Gorges, Kt., (1629,) described in the grant as 
“lying and bordering upon the great lakes of the Iriqnois and 
other nations adjoining, extending back to the great rivers of 
Canada;” and described in an English book on America, pub¬ 
lished in London (165S), as “having the Sagadahock and Myra- 
meck rivers on the New England seacoast;” also “ the great lakes 
that tend towards California and the South Sea, on the ivest 
thereof.” “ The air thereof is pure and wholesome, the country 
pleasant, having some high hills full of goodly forests and fair 
vallies and plains of fruitful corn, vines, nuts, and infinite sort of 
fruits; large rivers, environed with goodly meadow s full of tim¬ 
ber-trees.” 

An act of the General Assembly, (1704,) made it the duty of 
every householder within the several towns of the province, “ to 
provide one good pair of snow-shoes, and mogasheens, (with 
penalty for default,) and to replace and repair the same, the better 
to enable them to pursue the enemy in winter.” 

The Granite Commonwealth has been described as a good place 
to emigrate from; and, perhaps, no State in the Union retains so 




44 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


few of its enterprising sons on the homesteads among the hills; 
but, it may also be safely asserted that no other state has more 
reason to be proud of the sons and daughters sent forth to the 
world, and no spot do the absent look back to with more of affec¬ 
tion and reverent love. That 

****** « the land 

Of storms and mountains bath the noblest sons; 

Whom the world reverences,” 

is proved to be true of this land of hills, as well as of other lands, 
and in other times. The wildness of the mountain scenery, in 
the northern section of the State, attracts that army of visitors 
for whose use this book has been prepared. 

THE MERRIMACK RIVER. 

“ Our Christian river lovetli most 
The beautiful and human; 

The heathen streams of Naiads boast, 

But oura of man and woman.” 

By whichever way the capital of the State is approached from 
the south, the way for several miles is along the banks of the fair 
Merrimack, preeminently the river of uses, subservient to almost 
every industry. 

It was said in the quaint language of the early discoverers, to 
be a “ faire, large river, well replenished with fruitful isles; the 
country pleasant, full of goodly forests and faire vallies,” a de¬ 
scription that answers well for the present, though made when its 
waters ran unvexed to the sea. 

Rising in sources more than five thousand feet above the sea 
level, the Pemigewasset and Winnipesaukee rivers unite at Frank¬ 
lin, forming the Merrimack. The Winnipesaukee is the outlet of 
the great lake, and the water-power companies of the cities below 
have wisely provided artificial means to retain in this great 
natural reservoir a reserve of power in times of drought. 

Along the banks of this fair stream we are now whirled. As 
its sources are more varied, so are its uses more manifold than 
any stream of its extent and volume in the world. Gathered 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRATEL. 


45 


from infant streams, born in the placid ponds of the Franconia 
Valley, and high up on the summit of Mount Willey, in the 
Crawford Notch, and receiving waters from the outlets of Winni- 
pesaukee, Squam and Newfound lakes, from the slopes of distant 
Monadnock and Kearsarge, through the Contoocook, Blackwater 
and tributaries; and, farther down, from the outlet of Massabesic 
the Suncook, Souliegan, Nashua, Concord, Spicket and Shaw- 
sheen rivers, it discharges into the Atlantic, after its broken and 
busy flow of two hundred and sixty miles by its course. 

The fine imagination of Whittier thus invokes the fair stream, 
at a merry gathering upon the river bank: 

“ Bring us the airs of the hi'ls and forests, 

The sweet aroma of birch and pine, 

Give us a wait of the north wind laden 
With sweet brier odors and breath of kine! 

Lead us away in shades and sunshine, 

Slaves of fancy, through all thy miles, 

The winding ways of the Pemigewasset, 

And Winnipesaukee’s hundred isles.” 

Lowell, Nashua, Manchester and Lawrence are the chief 
manufacturing centres utilizing its power, with a host of lesser 
towns, upon its banks and tributaries, deriving their importance 
from the water-powers here so generally used. 

CONCORD, N. H. 

This capital city of the good Granite State is a steady-going, 
thrifty and eminently respectable municipality; one of the clean¬ 
est and most wellrto-do of New England cities; lacking water¬ 
power to attract the heavy manufacturers, it is dependent upon 
its central position for trade, and its importance as the political 
centre of the State, for its elements of growth. The town was 
described, in a petition of the inhabitants of the town of Rumford 
to the General Assembly of the province, 1775, as “having Man¬ 
sion Houses, Fortifications and out houses, well formed for 
defence, being on the Merrimack River about a day’s march 
below the confluence of the Winnipishoky and Pemmissawassett 


46 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


Rivers.” In this petition the inhabitants ask that their “ antient 
and well-regulated settlement may have seasonable aid for protec¬ 
tion against a bloodthirsty and merciless enemy, who threaghten 
the life of the settlement, and render danger of evacuation 
eminent.” 

The State House is finely situated in the heart of the city, 
between Maine and State Streets, and the enclosed grounds, 
some two acres in extent, are laid out in pleasant walks. 

Sons of New Hampshire who may tarry here, if but for an 
hour, should visit the gallery of portraits of eminent sons of the 
State, including a recently collected series of paintings of the 
local Governors, from the courtly features and dress of the old 
colonial times, through the long line of rulers of this wisely and 
lightly governed commonwealth, down to the well known and 
much abused modern governor. In the Senate chamber are the 
portraits of the presiding officers of the Senate, who have been 
among the most eminent men of the State. 

In the Representative’s Hall are fine portraits of General John 
Stark, of Bennington fame; also of Gen. Alex’r Schammel and 
Gen. Enoch Poor, companions and intimates of Lafayette,—with 
other fine portraits more universally known. 

The State Asylum for the Insane, with its extensive buildings 
and grounds, is upon a gradual swell of land on the western 
limits of the city proper. The State Prison is somewhat ancient 
in its appearance, but safely holds its inmates, and is so centrally 
located as to stand a continual warning to good citizens to con¬ 
tinue in the way of well-doing. 

From the granite quarries of Concord have been built many of 
the finest structures of the adjacent, as well as distant cities. 
The quarrying of this superior building stone, from neighboring 
hills, is an important industry of the city. 

Concord coaches are a specialty in carriage manufacture; 
wherever you ride by coach-lines, whether over the picturesque 
White Mountain roads, the wide reaches of the western border, 
on the plains of Mexico, or the Steppes of Central America, the 
well-known name of Concord makers is upon the vehicle which 
conveys you; and, if the horses are housed in the famous Con¬ 
cord harness manufactured here by James R. Hill, Esq., you 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


47 


have added security for safe passage and delivery; for nowhere in 
the country is better material or more honest labor put into car¬ 
riage and harness work than is done by these makers, whose wide 
local reputation has become a national one; their work is in 
demand wherever superior workmanship and material is required. 

Concord was incorporated as a town by the government of 
Massachusetts in 1783, under the name of Rum Cord. The mas¬ 
sacre of five citizens of the town by Indians, in 1740, is a matter 
of history well known to all familiar with local records. A plain 
granite monument on the Hopkinton road marks the vicinity of 
the tragedy. 

The St. Paul School, for boys, is a flourishing institution at 
Millville, some two miles from the city proper, on the Hopkinton 
road and Turkey river. There are tasty buildings, in a pretty 
location, in the quiet valley. The School is under the patronage 
of the Episcopal denomination, and is a model institution, liber¬ 
ally patronized. 

Long before the white man ruled in the realm, the centre of 
savage authority was at Pennacook, the Indian village located 
on the present site of the city. The Pennacooks were a power¬ 
ful tribe, and Passaconnaway, their great Sangamon, was a 
savage ruler, and counsellor of acknowledged wisdom and power, 
to whom the lesser tribes were tributary. 

Concord is not wanting in good hotels, and whether your stay 
here be short or for a long time, all the substantial comforts and 
desirable conveniences which guests may desire, can be had for 
reasonable charges, at the Phenix Hotel, presided over by 
J. R. Crocker, Esq., a popular and efficient landlord. Excel¬ 
lent rooms and gentlemanly attendance, with substantial plenty, 
are sure to be found. The location is in the centre of business, 
on Main street, near to Railway Station, with free coaches for 
patrons to and from all trains. 



Phenix Hotel, Concokd, 


































































































































































































































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


49 



Eagle Hotel. 


Also, at the Eagle Hotel, kept by John A. White, Esq., 
all the essentials of a firSt-class house are found, with an 
excellent table, courteous attendants and spacious rooms, with 
liberal furnishing. The location is central, fronting the State 
Capitol buildings and grounds. 

NORTHWARD FROM CONCORD. 

The route to the Mountains or Canadas, from Concord, is over 
the Boston, Concord, Montreal & White Mountains Railroad. 
Once upon its express trains, we are driven mountainward with 
speed and safety; and, if it is The season of recreation, and you 
have given care to the winds, you will read with curiosity the 
faces of traveling companions, and study the peculiarities of fel- 
4 


















































50 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


low-passengers who thread a common [thoroughfare, having a 
common object. Here are celebrities escaping high life and 
notoriety for a quiet time of peace and seclusion; shy natures 
courting voluntary banishment among the rocks and echoes; 
poets seeking near communion with nature, and the 

“ Music of birds and rustling of young'boughs, 

And sound of swaying branches and the 
Voice of distant waterfalls;” 

merchants from the routine of the counting-house; bluff sea-cap¬ 
tains exchanging the monotonous view of the rolling billows for 
the picturesque changes of a mountainous landscape; overworked 
pastors, with leave of absence and continued salary, seeking rest 
for a season from the delivery of prosy discourses to restless 
congregations, to read “sermons in stones,” written by the hand 
of an Almighty Author on imperishable granite walls; the 
Princess of song, mayhap, is on the way to learn that her art, 
with all its wonderful perfection, is but a poor imitation of the 
song of the 

“ Wild brook babbling down the mountain side 

Or— 

“ A full choir of feathered choristers 
Wedding their notes to the enamored air; ” 

the artist is bound for a pilgrimage among the quiet beauties of 
North Conway, or the sweet vales of Campton, the loveliness of 
which he will transcribe, so far as human art may do it, ere he 
returns to the restraints of the studio; the pale invalid has a 
flush of hope, in view of expected relief from bodily ills, among 
the pure breezes and the savage vigor of the hills; but the hap¬ 
piest of all are the children—veritable innocents abroad—to 
whom the 

“ Echo of cascade and voice of mountain brook ” 

bring a joy unsullied by care, and on whose plastic minds the 
shadows and outlines of the great hills fall with force unappre¬ 
ciated by the older travelers. 

There is enough of the savage inherent in man to make unre¬ 
strained liberty of movement sweet, however much it may have 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAYEL. 


51 


been schooled in the harness of conventionality, or hampered by 
the restraints of custom; and, to most of us who have escaped 
for a time from city life, the freedom in store is a blest relief. 

“ No crowd impedes our way, 

No city walls restrain our further bounds; 

Where the wild flock can wander we may stray, 

The long day through, mid Summer sights and sounds.” 

THE BOSTON, CONCORD, MONTREAL & WHITE 
MOUNTAINS RAILROAD. 

This line, over which we are now passing, is one of those 
shrewdly and liberally managed interior lines of travel which 
have acquired a wide reputation for good management with the 
great army of pleasure travelers who largely patronize this route 
in the summer months, threading the’ shores of Lake Winnipe- 
saukee and the outlying bays, thence northward along the val¬ 
ley of Baker’s River to the fair Connecticut valley; thence over 
the White Mountains division, by the Ammonoosuc valley, to the 
Mountains and Canadian cities, the passenger has the advan¬ 
tage of picturesque scenery, while speed and safety are attained 
by making use of first-class rolling stock, and of all the modern 
appliances and conveniences of railway travel. J. E. Lyon, 
Esq., of Boston, the veteran railway manager, is the President 
and controlling spirit of the road, with J. A. Dodge, Esq., of 
Plymouth, N. H., as Superintendent—a gentleman who combines 
the rare qualities, invaluable when united, of great efficiency, 
with gentlemanly address and business capacity. 

Parlor cars are run on all through Express trains. Tickets 
may be purchased, information obtained, and general directions 
given at the passenger agency of this road, No. 5 State street, 
Boston, or at the office of the General Ticket Agent, Ply¬ 
mouth, N. H. 

After leaving the Merrimack intervales, above Concord, the 
stations are not such as to particularly interest the stranger, nor 
is the country sufficiently attractive to charm or interest you, 
until you reach the station at Tilton, at which place is located 
the N. H. Conference Seminary and Female College. The 


52 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAYEL. 


School building is seen on the high ground to the left. Stages 
run from t his point to Gilmanton Centre and New Hampton and 
to Franklin, N. H. And it is to some extent a place of summer 
resort. 

Shortly after leaving Tilton station the waters of Lake Win- 
nesquam are seen to the left. This lake, or outlying bay of 
Winnipes aukee, is a lovely sheet of water, formerly known as 
.Sanbornton Bay, or Great Bay. 

LACONIA. 

This thriving village, twenty-seven miles from Concord, is an en¬ 
terprising and live manufacturing village, desirable as a place of 
residence and important as a trade centre. The name “ Laconia ” 
was originally given to the whole region lying about the lakes 
and mountains. 

Here are located the Belknap Mills, Ranlet Car Company with 
Iron Fou ndries and Machine Shops, a Bank of Discount and two 
Savings Banks, with all the accessories of a desirable country 
village. 

The Laconia House, kept by Elkins Brothers, is a new and 
commodious house, affording visitors substantial comforts and 
all needed requisites for a pleasant temporary home. A stage 
line runs from here to Alton Bay. The drive to Centre Har¬ 
bor is one of rare interest, and the Belknap and Gunstock 
Mountains are often visited from this point; the view from the 
highest summit gives the eye wide range of the whole extent of 
the lake from a central point. Good teams for drives can be had 
at the above named hotel. The pleasant residences and tasty 
church buildings of the village attract attention as the through 
passenger is hurried on to 

LAKE TILLAGE, 

the next railway station, another thriving town of attractive ap¬ 
pearance, important as the place where are located the construc¬ 
tion and repair shops of the Boston, Concord & Montreal Rail¬ 
road line, with manufactories of machinery and mill castings 
(Cole Manufacturing Co .,) hosiery mills, and other mills of im¬ 
portance for making of knitting machines, needles, etc.] 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAYEL. 


53 



The Mount Belknap House 


is a commodious brick structure, near the railway station. 
David B. Story, Esq., is the obliging landlord, and those who 
may tarry here for a time will find no lack of pleasant drives in 
the surrounding region, and no one should fail to make the trip 
to the summit of Belknap. For these trips Mr. S. will furnish 
good teams at reasonable rates. The stage from Laconia to Alton 
Bay connects here. 

From Lake Tillage the railway skirts the shores of Long Bay, 
lying to the right, an outlying portion of the lake proper. The 
lake itself now comes in view as you reach the small and unpre¬ 
tending station standing in solitary importance, and 

WEIRS, 

probably so called for the reason that here were located thejis^- 
weirs, or nets, of the Indians, is reached. 

This is the steamboat landing on Lake Winnipesaukee, where 
passengers can leave by the commodious steamer “ Lady of the 
Lake,” Captain S. B. Cole, and enjoy the delightful sail of ten 
miles, through the finest portion of the Lake, to the quiet and 
picturesque hamlet at the head of Central Northern Bay, so loved 
by artists and sought by lovers of beauty and quiet—known as 
Centre Harbor, fully described in next chapter. At this point 
are the extensive camp-meeting grounds of the New England 
Methodists, probably the finest inland grounds in the country, 
where thousands annually enjoy.the natural beauty and intellec¬ 
tual pleasures here afforded. 

















CHAPTER III, 


LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE AND VICINITY. 


This is the ancient “ Winnapusscawkit, Winnipaseket, or 
Winipaseckek.” If it be not sacrilege to apply measurement 
to the molten surface, or impossible to compute in miles so 
irregular a form, we may say, in general terms, that the length 
of the lake is some twenty five miles, varying in width from less 
than one to seven miles in its greatest breadth, giving about 
seventy square miles surface. Its elevation above sea level is 
four hundred and ninety-six feet. The waters are of a deep, 
clear and transparent green. The islands (more than three 
hundred in number,) have clearly defined, and, with some ex¬ 
ceptions, low, rocky shores, and are covered with the greenest 
foliage. On Diamond Island, which is a sort of half-way 
station for the boats from the lake landings, and at which the 
“ Lady of the Lake” makes a short stop in its trip from Wolfe- 
borough to Weirs, is a comfortable hotel, accommodating some 
fifty guests, and is a place of resort for picnic, pleasure and fish¬ 
ing parties, and a favorite dining station for excursionists. Bear 
Island, of considerable extent, is also resorted to by excursion 
parties. Long Island, Governor’s Island, Eattlesnake Island, 
and Cow Island are the larger of the isles which dot the lake; 
some have cultivated farms, others are used solely for pasturage, 
others are sacred to picnic and pleasure parties, while the small 
low isles, with their tangled growth, are the paradise of ungainly 
waterfowl. 

The central extent of nearly unbroken water, is known as “ The 
Broads.” The outlet is through the waters of Great Bay and 


































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































56 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


the swift Winnipesaukee river, which joins the Merrimack at 
Franklin. Its source of supply is a matter of speculation; no 
large streams find their way into it, and much of the surround¬ 
ing water-shed is drained into other lakes and rivers having other 
outlets; many small brooks enter from the shores, but the outlet 
is an important and rapid stream, and the wide surface is ex¬ 
posed to evaporation; yet, with such apparent lack of supply, its 
banks are always full, forcing the conclusion that its volume is 
supplied largely by invisible springs of great number and force, 
fed by the surrounding mountains. 

The Indian tribes who gave to the lake its musical name, found 
in its waters and on its shores inexhaustible supplies for their 
rude subsistence. Their frail canoes were thick upon its waters 
long before the artist sketched its outlines; their ahquedaukens, 
or “ fish-weirs,” furnished supply of food without limit, and the 
fertile shores provided the growth of corn. Old inhabitants tell 
of a tree once standing near at hand, on which was carved the 
legends of the Ossipee tribe in quaint Indian characters. Fish¬ 
ing in the waters of the lake rarely fails to be amply rewarded. 
The trout in deep waters, and pickerel in shallow places, among 
the reeds and lillies, are the most sought. The cusk, perch, and 
toothsome but inelegant and unpopular “ pout,” are also easily 
taken in abundance. 

The loveliness which invests with “ charms artistic and infinite ” 
the cluster of bays which combine in the lake proper, is not easily 
described by words or transmitted by brush or pencil. The com¬ 
bination of summits, slopes and forests, green lines of shore 
winding in charming curves of symmetrical beauty, and sometimes, 
not often, the whole blending system of hills, forests, shores and 
islands reproduced in the still waters — a hanging shadow picture 
of wondrous beauty, beyond the reach of art to transcribe, is one 
to be remembered for a lifetime. 

Moving over the lake in the steamer, from Weirs to Centre 
Harbor, an ever-changing succession of pictures is presented. 
The Sandwich and Ossipee mountains to the right, with glimpses 
of old Chucorua far to the north, and slopes of forests, green hill¬ 
sides, and fertile pastures, with the nearer view of Ked Hill and 
the surrounding elevations fronting your course, the twin peaks 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 57 

of Belknap and G-unstock mountains behind you, and the won¬ 
drous beauty of island gemmed surface and cons tantly changing 
outlines of the grander shores, all blend in a scene not to be for¬ 
gotten. In finest weather you have for a few moments a view of 
the crown of Mount Washington—the Mecca of the mountain 
tourists — dim, distant and golden. 

The name in the Indian language signifies “ The smile of the 
Great Spirit,” or the “ Pleasant Water of the High Place.” The 
testimony of Everett, Starr King and Bartok, among our own 
writers, and of travelers from foreign lands, to whom the loveli¬ 
ness of other scenes is familiar, all unite in praise of the perfection 
of beauty here revealed, “ Mid shadowy hills and misty moun¬ 
tains, all covered with showery light, as with a veil of airy gauze. ” 

CENTRE HARBOR 

is at the head of the Central North-end Bay. Here the visitor 
may tarry and take luxurious ease and perfect rest at the com¬ 
modious hotels, row or sail upon the lake in boats to be had for 
the purpose, watch the play of the shadows upon the mirror of 
waters and the many hills, or make the “not to be omitted” ex¬ 
cursion to Red Hill, or the drive of four miles “ around the 
ring.” There is an elevation about a mile from the hotels which 
affords a fine outlook. Excellent teams are furnished for the at¬ 
tractive drives hereabout, and private teams are well cared for. 

At the Senter House, J. L. Huntress, proprietor, first-class 
fare, attendance and rooms will be found. The location is near 
the shore of the lake; the grounds are ample, and piazzas broad 
and inviting to cozy and luxurious ease. All but chronic grum¬ 
blers can here be entertained with all needful comforts and 
conveniences. 









































































































































































































































































































































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


59 



Moulton House. 

At the Moulton House, S. F. Emery, proprietor, good 
rooms and good cheer await you at all times, and patrons will 
find all the needful provisions for making comfortable either a 
prolonged or temporary stay, including teams and everything 
needful for the man of leisure, the sportsman, or families and par¬ 
ties seeking rest or pleasure. 

Occasionally an independent tourist strikes from this point 
across the country, by neglected by-roads, in the direction of 
Franconia, and finds rare views to compensate for his travel in 
different stages of the journey. Squam Lake should be visited, 
three and one-half miles from the village — a miniature Winnipe- 
saukee. 

RED HILL, 

distant from Centre Harbor some five miles to the summit should 
be visited. From this elevation (of 2,500 feet) a view is had 
equalled in beauty by none other in this immediate vicinity. 
The wide reach of that cluster of silver bays, which, with 
the lake proper, give unrivalled variety and beauty to Winni- 
pesaukee, lying like a mirror in its framework of rounded, 




60 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


swelling hills, pre-eminent in placid beauty, is here spread beneath 
the eye. Starr King beautifully says of the lake view from this 
summit: “ Here is the place to study its borders, to admire the 
fleet of islands that ride at anchor upon its bosom, from the little 
shallops to the grand three-deckers, and to enjoy the exquisite 
lines by which its bays are enfolded, and in which its coves 
retreat, and with which its low capes cut the azure and hang 
over it in emerald fringe.” The hill takes its name from a shrub 
covering its sides, the leaves changing to brilliant red in the 
fading autumn. The splendor of a sunrise view from this eleva¬ 
tion, on a summer morning, is said to be beautiful beyond 
description. 

The route from Centre Harbor to North Conway and the Glen 
House is by stage line, R. A. R. Benson, proprietor, running 
along the base of Red Hill, through Moultonborough, the village 
of Sandwich, Sandwich Notch, Tamworth and Ossipee, to the 
station on Great Falls & Conway branch of Eastern Railroad. 
The distance from Centre Harbor to North Conway is about 
thirty-two miles, one half by stage line. The Bearcamp River 
Hotel at West Ossipee, (formerly Banks House,) J. L. Plummer, 
proprietor, is a favorite resort for anglers, hunters and lovers of 
the picturesque. Excursions from this point to Ossipee and 
Chucorua Lake are frequently taken; it is also a favorite point 
from which to view the ragged spurs of Chucorua. 

This stage route, though somewhat rugged, gives a grand pan¬ 
oramic view of the mountains at that distance, which lends 
enchantment to their bold outlines. There are occasional sharp 
and tiresome hills on the route. Ossipee Mountain will haunt 
you during the drive. Passaconoway and Whiteface are lofty 
peaks, 4,200 and 4,100 feet elevation, respectively. 

The Sandwich range of mountains is to the west and north, 
terminating in the peaks of Chucorua, with its massive symmetri¬ 
cal and precipitous ledges, 3,400 feet in height, desolate with the 
legendary curse of the dying chief whose name it bears. 

Of North Conway, with its secluded charms set about with 
circling majesty of distant mountains, we will give a full account 
in a succeeding chapter. The other most important and pictur¬ 
esque village on the shore of Winnipesaukee is 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAYEL. 


61 


WOLFEBOROUGH, 

oil the eastern shore of the Lake, settled some five years before 
the Revolution, also reached by boat from Centre Harbor and 
Weirs. Around this romantic village, located on ridges of land 
affording fine views, are many pleasant drives. Chief among the 
attractions is the ascent of Copple Crown Mountain (2,100 feet 
elevation), about five miles distant from the hotels. The ascent 
is not difficult, the carriage road reaching within a mile of the 
summit. The view takes in nearly the whole extent of the Lake, 
the ragged spurs of Chucorua, the massive Ossipee, and overtop¬ 
ping dome of Mount Washington; and, across the Lake, Mounts 
Belknap and Gunstock. 

Sometimes, in the far distance, the blue ocean can be seen, and 
the wide landscape is dotted with more than a score of ponds of 
various dimensions. There is also a favorite view to be had from 
the lesser elevation of “ Tumble-Down-Dick.” Smith’s Pond is 
a place of resort for sportsmen and others; and moonlight excur¬ 
sions on Lakq Winnipesaukee from this point are often made to 
the lasting pleasure of all. A poetic writer has described the 
waters as lying in the soft moonlight, “ burnished into liquid 
acres of a faint and golden splendor.” Wolfeborough has direct 
railroad communication with Boston and the east, and with Con¬ 
way by the Wolfeborough branch of the Great Falls & Conway 
Line, while the daily boat trips to Weirs, on the Concord & Mon¬ 
treal line, and to Alton Bay, give unusual facilities for visitors to 
choose among rival routes. 

The Wolfeborough Pavilion 

is a fine and commodious hotel, A. L. Howe, Esq., proprietor, also 
of the Evans House, Boston, with all the requisites of a first-class 
inn, and a fine livery for the charming drives hereabout. The 
house is lo cated in the immediate vicinity of the landing, with 
facilities for boating and all desirable rural pleasures. 

The Glendon House, 

J. L. Peavey, proprietor, is attractive in its exterior and 
style, new, airy and pleasant, on the shore of the Lake. Livery 


62 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


stables connected, and boats may be had for Lake excursions. 
Billiard rooms, house lighted throughout with gas, electric bell 
arrangement, and lively and efficient management. 

The Belvue House, 

Daniel Horn, proprietor. The grounds are beautifully located 
in the most attractive spot on the shore of the Lake, a few rods 
distant from the landing and railroad station. Connected with 
the house are livery stable, laundry, and bathing, and a large 
supply of boats for rowing and sailing, at moderate charges. 
The added pleasure of yachting can be enjoyed by the patrons of 
this house the coming summer, a fine new yacht having been 
launched the present season. 

The Lake Yiew House, 

F. J. Lucas, proprietor, is beautifully located, commanding 
extensive views of Lake and Mountain Scenery. A desirable 
place for recreation or rest. 

The sail by boat to the southern portion of the Lake leads you 
into the winding and hill-shadowed inlet of 

ALTON BAY, 

and brings you to the village of the same name at the foot of 
Merry-meeting Bay, at the lower end of the Lake. This is the 
point of railroad communication with Boston and the East, via 
the Dover & Winnipesaukee and Boston & Maine railroads. 
Connecting with trains over these roads, the new, staunch and 
commodious steamer, “Mount Washington,” Capt. Wiggin, plies 
to Wolfeborough and Centre Harbor, through the entire length 
of the Lake proper. This place has become noted for the im¬ 
mense gatherings of Adventists and Spiritualists of New England 
in yearly camp-meetings, which are attended by thousands, and 
for whose accommodation extra trains and boat trips are run. 
Drives fiom this point to Mount Belknap, ten miles, to Sharpe’s 
Hill, and fishing excursions to Lougee Pond, six miles, will 
amply reward the taking. The outlook from the summit of 
Mount Major and Prospect Hill commands fine views. This 
point was a favorite resort of the Indians, and camping-place for 
the pioneer soldiery during the French and Indian wars. 


CHAPTER IV, 


NORTHWARD FROM THE LAKE. 


But while we have digressed and become oblivious to all else 
in the quiet loveliness of the Lake, the larger part of the com¬ 
pany have kept steadily onward by rail, along the western shore 
of Northwest Cove, in sight of its cool, sparkling waters, through 

MEREDITH TILLAGE. 

This fine village has become a place of resort for those seeking 
a quiet and attractive summer retreat. 



The Elm House, 

G. M. Burleigh, proprietor, is a good hotel, and the village a 
place desirable for quiet residence. A fine forest lies in the 













Plymouth 



















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 65 

immediate vicinity to the rear of the house. The location is 
elevated, commanding extensive views. There are thirty large 
and airy rooms; pure breezes from the lake and hills; good 
stables connected, and everything new and comfortable. 

The railroad now skirts the shores of Lake Wukawan, and 
brings you to the thriving village of 

ASHLAND, 

important for the extensive production of paper, leather and 
straw-board, woolen goods, gloves and hosiery. This village is 
in the old town of Holderness, which was settled by its founders 
with high hopes of making it one of the important towns of the 
colony. 

Squam Lake House, 

J. M. Cotton, proprietor, is a good hotel, with a livery. 
Within a short distance are a large number of trout streams. 

The next station, after passing Bridgewater, is in the fair 
valley of the Pemi^ewasset (place of crooked pines)—the charm¬ 
ing village of 

PLYMOUTH, 

fifty-one miles from Concord, and one hundred and twenty-four 
from Boston. This is the dining station for the morning trains 
from Boston, and the night station for the later trains, which 
continue north from this point in the morning. You step from 
the train directly upon the threshold of the famed 

Pemigewasset House, 

in the lower stories of which are the rooms of the passenger 
station. C. M. Morse, Esq., is the gentlemanly manager. As¬ 
cending the broad staircase, if it be in the season of pleasure 
travel, you will be saluted with music from a fine quadrille band; 
and, entering one of the finest dining halls in New England, 
you find that plenty reigns at this hospitable board. Scrupulous 
neatness, excellent cookery, and quiet, lady-like attendance, the 
purest of water, and the freshest of viands are the features of this 
hotel. 


5 





Pemigewasset House 
































































































































































































































































































































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


67 


This favorite house was erected in 1863, and is one of the 
best, in design and management, in the State. The building 
has a frontage of two hundred and thirty feet, is four stories 
in height, with a wide projecting wing. There are one hun¬ 
dred and fifty sleeping-rooms, large, airy, and well furnished, 
with bathing facilities. Suites of rooms can be had for fam¬ 
ilies. The parlor is spacious, with elegant furnishing, and 
a fine frontage to the south. The building is crowned with 
an observatory, from which you have a wide outlook over the 
surrounding country. Good teams may be had at the first-class 
livery stable near at hand, with skilful drivers, familiar with sur¬ 
rounding scenery. The public rooms and passage-ways are 
lighted with gas. 

Pleasant drives, in the vicinity of Plymouth, are numerous to 
points of interest within reasonable distance, viz., around Smith’s 
Bridge, six miles; to Livermore Falls, two miles; Plymouth 
Mountain, ten miles; Loon Pond, five miles; Squam Lake, six 
miles; Centre Harbor, twelve miles. 

Prospect Hill, or Mount Prospect, in Holderness, should be 
visited by all who tarry at this place. The distance is about 
four miles from the Hotel—the ascent is not difficult, the car¬ 
riage-way leading nearly to the summit—and the view from the 
summit (2,968 feet elevation) takes in the wide reaches of valley, 
lake, stream and mountain, with the villages, farms and inter¬ 
vales that sleep in the fair valley of the Pemigewasset and Ba¬ 
ker’s River; while, far to the north, the great ranges of the 
White and Franconia Mountains thrust their ragged peaks and 
swelling masses upon the horizon; the views of Mount Lafayette 
and Cannon Mountain are particularly grand from this summit, 
and Chucorua, Gunstock, Belknap Mountains, Monadnock and 
Kearsarge greet the vision as the eye sweeps the circuit from the 
east to the west, and to the northwest Moosehillock swells nobly 
into view; Wukawan, Squam and Winnipesaukee Lakes lie in 
their quiet and silvery beauty in the unrivalled landscape, which 
includes some portion of nearly every county in the State. 

To make this trip you will necessarily be absent from the hotel 
only about four hours. The road is safe and firm, affording a 
continual change of view as the ascent is made. 


68 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


Livermore Falls, on the Pemigewasset River, about two miles 
northerly from the village, will not fail to prove an object of in¬ 
terest. The view is from the bridge some sixty feet above the 
fall; there are indications of volcanic disturbances in the rocky 
bed. For a limited view, if you have not time or inclination for 
a more extensive one, that from Walkers Hill or South Moun¬ 
tain is pleasing to those unfamiliar with grander prospects. 

If a day or two is spent in Plymouth at this favorite Hotel, it 
is quite likely on your return, the coming year, your stay will be 
one of weeks. There is wholesome stimulus in the mountain 
air, and purity in the waters, activity and bustle at the Hotel 
and railway station, (three trains each day, to and from Boston,) 
from which a step, almost, will take you to undisturbed quiet. 

Before leaving Plymouth you will pay a visit to the small four- 
roofed building, now used as a wheelwright shop, in which Daniel 
Webster made his debut as a practising attorney. The old build¬ 
ing is preserved in its ancient condition, and is looked upon with 
great interest by strangers and admirers of the great statesman. 



Hull’s Boarding House. 












































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


69 


The popular boarding-house near the station, of which 
W. G. Hull is proprietor, is a cheerful and convenient home for 
those who seek quiet for a time. It is finely located upon the 
hill-side. 

Pemigewasset Yalley Stage Route. 

the route from Plymouth to the Profile and Flume Houses and the 
Franconia Hills, twenty five miles to the Flume House and thirty miles to 
the Profile House, through the Pemigewasset valley, is acknowledged to he 
one of the finest rides in the whole mountain district. The way leads up 
this lair valley through the towns of Campton, Thornton, Woodstock and 
Lincoln. The Campton intervales, through which the river winds and turns 
as if reluctantly leaving the peaceful retreat, the graceful sweeps of the 
great elms, the rich beauty of the views, which open with every mile of 
progress, have made this mountain town the favorite resort of artists seek¬ 
ing the picturesque in landscape, and perfection in shade and outline. 

On the way the road is somewhat rugged, hut the fine views, the gradual 
swelling and towering up of the great hills as you approach their base, and 
the lessening of the streams as you near their source, the entrance into the 
immediate presence of the solemn and majestic mountains in the evening 
twilight, the wonders of Franconia Notch, and the comforts provided at 
the end, will all linger in memory long after the journey has become a thing 
of the past, and the landscapes 

“ Plaited with valleys, and embossed with hills, 

Enchased with silver streams, and fringed with woods,’* 

if seen in favorable lights, will be living pictures fading only with memory. 
Of the attractions and healthfulness of Campton and the to wns beyond ly¬ 
ing in this picturesque valley, among the great mountains and near to the 
wonders of Franconia, too much cannot be said in praise. A glance at tho 
list of boarding-houses at the close of this book, will show the demand for 
accommodations along this charming route. The number of temporary 
residents in these quiet homes, each season, is constantly increasing, and 
the time of their sojourn lengthens every year. The charms of this valley 
are appreciated by artists and lovers of the picturesque who resort here 
every year to transcribe with pencil or brush the beauty of landscapes so 
far as art may imitate nature. The valleys lie in lovely repose with the 
mountain land encircling them about. 

But we have digressed; and, led away by the charms of the 
Lake, and the fine stage-route, have partially forgotten the rail¬ 
way line; but many will not he tempted, even by the charms of 
the sail upon the Lake, but will continue by railway northward 


70 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


from Plymouth, following for twenty miles the valley of Baker’s 
Biver to the Connecticut. Passing Quincy’s Station, Rumney, 
West Rumney and Wentworth Station, Rattlesnake Mountain, 
Carr’s Mountain and other elevations of considerable boldness, 
are seen before reaching Wentworth. 

WARREN. 

Moosilauk Mountain, distant some five miles to the base, is 
visited by all admirers of mountain scenery. The ascent is by a 
new turnpike recently opened to the summit, some four miles. 
There are good hotel accommodations at the summit for those who 
remain. 

From this isolated crest (4,636 feet altitude,) high above all 
surrounding peaks, is one of the grandest and most extensive 
views in New England; the eye falls directly upon the White and 
Franconia mountain ranges. Eastward the great Central dome 
of Washington, flanked by the noble ranges of the mighty hills, 
the scarred sides of Lafayette, the walls of the Notch and the 
Pemigewasset Mountains. Carrigan and Pequaket are promi¬ 
nent peaks, the Uncanoonucks, Monadnocks and Kearsarge bound 
the vision as you sweep around from south to west. The vast 
extent of view from this high crest includes nearly all of eastern 
and southern New Hampshire, the mountains in the direction of 
North Conway and glimpses of distant Maine, while, far away to 
the northwest, the view extends into the Canadas. The first ex¬ 
perience of wintering upon mountain summits in this latitude 
was on this summit in 1869, by Prof. Huntington and others. 
The Moosilauk House is a well-kept hotel, with an extensive liv¬ 
ery for the accommodation of visitors. 

From Warren the course of the railroad is northward, passing 
“Owl’s Head,” lying off to the right, and the villages of Haver¬ 
hill and North Haverhill upon the left. The elevated line of the 
road at this place overlooks the wide valley and the great bend or 
“ Ox-bow ” in the Connecticut, with the pleasant villages on either 
side of the river, including the fine towns of Bradford and New¬ 
bury on the Vermont side, with mountains in the back-ground. 
The express train in the pleasure season does not cross to Wells 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


71 


River, but sweeps to the right by the “ cut-off,” leaving the thriv¬ 
ing and populous village of Woodsville, a railroad town of recent 
but vigorous growth, to the left. 

The Parker House, 

opposite the station, recently built to accommodate the business 
and pleasure travel, is a good house, with reasonable prices; 
livery stable connected. 

The mail train, following the express, stops at all stations, and 
all trains, excepting the fast through express, connect at Wells 
River, forming junction with the Passumpsic River Railroad for 
Lakes Willoughby and Mempliremagog. The Wells River & 
Montpelier Railroad, now completed, takes passengers from this 
point to Montpelier, Mounts Mansfield and Camel’s Hump, 
Burlington, (where boat or cars may be taken for Saratoga,) 
Lake Champlain, Lake George, or for St. Albans and Ogdens- 
burg. 

NORTHWARD TO LITTLETON. 

Re-crossing the Connecticut by the same bridge, and back 
through Woodsville, the line of road from this point—the White 
Mountain Division—passes along the valley of the wild Ammo- 
noosuc River, which, from its sources on the slopes of the great 
mountains, abounds in rapids and falls, and is the most variable 
and wild of the New England streams, descending five thousand 
feet from its source to its union with the Connecticut. 

Passing through Bath, a sleepy village, and Lisbon —a pretty 
and enterprising town, in which is the 

McAllister House, 

C. E. McAllister, proprietor, a small but very popular hotel 
with the traveling public, excellently managed, with a good 
livery, and some of the best and most pleasant drives to travel in 
the State—the people of which are determined to enrich them¬ 
selves and the country, either by developing their gold mines, or 
disseminating their patent fertilizers, you reach the important 
town of 


72 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


LITTLETON. 

This place is reached by the morning express train from Bos¬ 
ton, at 3.30 r. m. It is one hundred and thirteen miles from 
Concord, and one hundred and eighty-seven from Boston, and is 
one of the most important of the mountain railway stations 
nearest to the Profile House (distant eleven miles). Rough and 
manufactured lumber, agricultural implements, starch and woolen 
goods are here made, with many other productions. There is a 
bank of discount and savings bank, good hotel and boarding 
accommodations, a live, enterprising people, quiet and seclusion 
for those who choose it, with near railroad facilities. An easy 
day’s ride will carry one to any of the points of interest in the 
mountains and return. Extensive views of the mountains can 
be had from the elevations in the immediate vicinity. 

Thayer’s Hotel 

is a well managed house which has been long kept by the present 
proprietor. The coach will be found waiting with others at the 
depot. 


The Oak Hill House, 



finely located on an elevation. It is a favorite resort for tourists, 
commanding as it does extensive views of the White Mountains. 

















NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


73 


The grounds, five acres, are fitted up with a view of furnishing 
all the out-door exercise and amusements desired by patrons. 
The house is supplied with the purest of running water from a 
never failing spring. Secluded walks and retreats abound within 
a short distance of the house. A good billiard and bowling saloon 
is also connected with the premises. Five minutes’ walk from 
railroad station. The tables are supplied with all the luxuries 
of the season, and are not excelled. George Farr & Co., pro¬ 
prietors. 

During your stay at this place, a visit should be made to the 
photographic rooms of the Kilburn Brothers. These artists 
have the finest collection of stereoscopic views of mountain 
scenery and picturesque localities to be found in New England. 
They are not excelled as artists, nor equalled in their specialty 
of view-taking in the open air, being themselves enthusiastic 
mountaineers. Few visitors leave the mountains without a col¬ 
lection of their fine views of notable localities and scenes, as 
souvenirs of their journey. 

Stages leave for the Franconia Hills immediately on arrival 
of the trains, and, if you withstand the temptation to tarry here 
for a time, or for the night, you can proceed directly on your way 
to the Profile House. 

You should by no means neglect to take the drive 

FROM LITTLETON TO FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE 
MOUNTAINS, 

a stage route of eleven miles, by a good road over hills and 
through valleys, passing through the long, straggling and pic¬ 
turesque village of Franconia (the reputed cold spot of the 
country in winter). The views of Mounts Lafayette and Cannon 
from Franconia village are very fine. The approach to the 
Notch by this route, in the sombre stillness of the fading day, 
when the shadows ascend slowly to the mountain tops, gilding 
their summits with golden splendor, and the bare and grim out¬ 
lines of the range are brought out in bold relief, is a scene to be 
remembered. 

Sometime before reaching the Profile House, you pass the 


74 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


farm belonging to the hotel, with the tasty and lavish display 
of flowers about the door and lawn, and beautiful fresh sup¬ 
plies, telling of substantial provision for their numerous guests; 
the diverging road to Bald Mountain is also passed. Echo Lake 
lies just to the left of the roadway; Eagle Cliff towers into view 
just beyond, and, as you near the hotel, you look to the right far 
up on the rocky summit of Mount Cannon, where the granite 
mass which gives name to this summit stands an almost perfect 
imitation of a mounted gun of heavy calibre. 

The Profile House 

is now reached—from its location, surroundings, and manage¬ 
ment, one of the most popular resorts in the whole mountain 
region. Echo Lake, Eagle Cliff, the Great Stone Face, and Pro¬ 
file Lake are all in the immediate vicinity, and, with the general 
wildness of the pass itself, make up a scene unequalled, in many 
of its features, elsewhere in the world. The smaller but well kept 
Flume House, five miles below, has the same management and is 
in near vicinity of the Flume, the Pool, Georgianna Falls and 
other wonders. The Basin is passed on the journey through the 
pass, being by the roadside. Of these natural wonders and the 
ascent of summits from these points see full description in chap¬ 
ter on “ Franconia Notch.” 

Again returning to the railway and going 

NORTHWARD FROM LITTLETON 

you may pass directly on and unite with the Grand Trunk Rail¬ 
way, at Northumberland Junction, for Colebrook, Dixville Notch, 
Island Pond or the Canadas, or tarry as you may choose at 
either Whitefield, Dalton, Lancaster or Guildhall, successive 
stations upon this line, hereafter noticed in detail; but, if your 
destination is Bethlehem, the Twin Mountain or Fabyan Houses, 
Mount Washington summit or the Crawford House, at the Notch, 
you will take the Mount Washington Branch Railroad, diverging 
from the main line above Littleton at the “ Wing Station,” and 
pass directly on to these points. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


75 



on this branch, has become the great mountain health resort of 
New England in the summer months. It is the highest open 
table land (1,500 feet elevationJ available for residences, in the 
Eastern States; and the pure air, wide prospect, picturesque 
scenes and surroundings, attract temporary residents from all 
parts of the country. The “ street ” is a long line of scattered 
houses at some distance from the railway station, and from this 





































76 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


grand plateau and favorable distance the outlook upon the moun¬ 
tains is grand and impressive. Many invalids are sent to this 
place by advice of physicians, and in its pure and dry atmosphere 
find that relief which those who seek mild but enervating climates 
fail to find. 

The trips and drives, of uncommon charm, to be had from this 
village are sufficiently numerous to give great variety and gran¬ 
deur of scenery. Among them are the following: to summit of 
Mount Agassiz, two miles; Craft’s Ledge, one and two-thirds 
miles; round the Heater, five miles; Kimball Hill, six miles; 
Montgomery Pond, six miles; White Mountain Notch, eighteen 
miles; Waumbek House, Jefferson Hill, eighteen miles; The 
Flume, sixteen miles; Mount Washington Railroad station, nine¬ 
teen miles. Good teams are to be had at fair prices. 



The Mount Agassiz House, C. E. Bunker, proprietor, is a 
pleasant house for the tourist, sportsman or invalid, also the 
small new house of W. G. Bunker will be found attractive, with 
others of equal merit. See list of Boarding Houses in appendix. 

































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


77 


The Prospect House, kept by Geo. W. Phillips, accommo¬ 
dates a hundred guests and will be found a desirable home for 
temporary or permanent residents, located near the forest, just 
off the roadway, giving all the retirement, with all the accommo¬ 
dation and convenience that guests could desire. 



Beautifully located at the foot of Bethlehem Street, towards 
the Railroad Station, is a spacious hotel with ample and taste¬ 
fully arranged grounds. Isaac S. Crufts, Esq., a liberal and 
prominent citizen, is the whole souled proprietor, and lias the 




































































78 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


house under excellent management. He is an enthusiast in the 
commendable work of rearing fine breeds of foreign cattle, and 
those who tarry with him will have amplitude of comfort and 
diversion. 

J. K. Barrett has opened a new house, with new furniture, 
in one of the most sightly and attractive locations. 


Elisha Sweet has also opened a new house which will be 
centrally located, with new and complete outfit. 



Avenue House. 


J. C. Kelley & Son open the Avenue House early the 
present season, and proprietors and employees will do all things 
possible for their patrons, and they have the arrangements and 
experience to make success assured. • 

The Sinclair House, Durgin & Fox, proprietors, is large, 
commodious and complete in its provision for the comfort of 
patrons. The recent additions and modern conveniences pro¬ 
vided make it one of the best of mountain hotels. 

From Bethlehem the Wing Railway passes on to Twin Moun¬ 
tain House (the former terminus,) a large and commodious 
hotel near the Twin Mountains, in Carroll township, and further 
on to the present terminus at the Fabyan House. 




















NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


79 


At this terminal station, the spacious, complete and every way 
first-class Fabyan House affords all needed or desirable com¬ 
forts and luxuries to its patrons. It is located at the junction of 
the Notch Road and the Mountain Turnpike, about six miles 
from the* station of the Mount Washington Railway, known as 
Ammonoosuc Station, at foot of Mount Washington. Only five 
miles of staging from this point to the Crawford House, at the 
Gates of the Notch. 

The Giant’s Grave, formerly a place of note from its pecu¬ 
liarity, and for the fine view therefrom, fell within the grounds of 
this fine hotel and has been sacrilegiously levelled. Lindsay & 
French are the efficient managers. Fabyan House line of Con¬ 
cord coaches runs in connection with all trains on the mountain 
railway, also to connect with trains on Portland & Ogdensburg 
Railroad, at Hart’s Location, near the old Crawford House. This 
line will be completed to this point and opened for travel at an 
early day, through White Mountain Notch. The accommoda¬ 
tions at this Hotel are for four hundred and fifty guests. The 
outlook from its piazzas is directly upon the slope of Mount 
Washington, and the ascending and descending trains over the 
mountain railway. Fine band music serves to drive away 
monotony, and all the essentials of a pleasure resort are here 
found. (See further notice in following pages.) 

Of the Mountain Railway, White Mountain Notch, and other 
attractions of this region you will be fully informed in the suc¬ 
ceeding chapter specially treating of each. 

Once again returning from our digression, and resuming travel 
by the regular railway route, we reach 

WHITEFIELD. 

This is the important lumber depot of this road. Brown’s 
Lumber Company, managed by those genuine Yankee lumber¬ 
men, the Brown Brothers and their associates, have here exten¬ 
sive mills and facilities for the manufacture of lumber on a large 
scale, in every grade and quality, including a forest railway of 
several miles in length, with ample rolling stock, extending to 
their great lumber tracts around Pondicherry. These mills are 


80 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


well worth a visit, being among the most complete in the State, 
and should the genial “ Doctor,” whose vim and hard cash make 
him an important director in the Company, be present, you will 
be sure of a welcome, and, though he can be as reticent as the 
‘ Old Man of the Mountain,” it is probable you will be entertained 
with pleasant conversation, valuable in its medical advice, if you 
are in need of such; in spiritual truths, if yours is a receptive 
mind; and in hilarious mirth, if you are inclined to be merry. 
This Company will furnish lumber, from the masts of monster 
merchantmen to the smallest merchandise known to the trade, 
and are still extending. 

Kimball Hill, a mile and a half from the village, is a favorite 
point for extensive views, and here the curious have found what 
appears to be Moccasin tracks in the solid granite. Bray’s Hill 
is another favorite outlook. This town is becoming a lavorite 
place of resort for summer boarders. The distance to the Fubyau 
House is seventeen miles; to the Waumbek House, eight miles; 
to the White Mountain Notch, and Franconia Notch, seventeen 
miles respectively. Several first-class boarding houses are located 
in this town, and the views from the hills are not surpassed at 
any point about the mountains. 

DALTON 

is the next station, where many leave for the Sumner House, 
finely located on the banks of the Connecticut, one mile distant* a 
place of considerable resort. 

Lunenburg, Vt., is one mile from South Lancaster Station. 
Regular conveyance to the commodious hotel and excellent 
boarding houses in this mountain village, overlooking the Con¬ 
necticut valley, from the high and healthy plateau. 

LANCASTER 

is distant from Concord one hundred and thirty-five miles, from 
Boston, two hundred and eight miles, and is the most important 
town of Coos County, located among the finest scenes outlying 
the mountains, it is the destination of many of our number. The 
intervales ot the Connecticut, at this point, are not surpassed by 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


81 


any upon its whole course* while rare views are had of the dis¬ 
tant Franconia Mountains, the great White Mountain range, the 
Percy Peaks and Pilot Range, and the Lunenburg Hills in Ver¬ 
mont. Here the tourist in high health, who has the secret 
learned 

“ To mix his blood with sunshine, and to take 
The winds into his pulses,” 

can have unequalled facility for sporting and the enjoyment of 
savage vigor. It is also a place of resort for invalids, especially 
for those troubled with asthmatic and lung difficulties and “ hay 
fever”; for such , relief is said to come with certainty in the 
genial air of the village; certainly, few lovelier spots could be 
chosen in which to recuperate wasted energies and correct the 
injurious effects of exposure to enervating influences of crowded 
cities or injurious climate. The winter views from this point are 
spoken of with admiration by those whose artistic tastes are ad¬ 
mitted to be above contradiction, though the chilling fog-clouds 
from the mountains sometimes bring an arctic severity with their 
unwelcome descent in winter. 

Lancaster was chartered in 1763. “All pine trees within said 
township fit for masting our Royal Navy to be carefully pre¬ 
served for that use, and none to be cut or felled without special 
license.” The grant was to David Page and others, covering 
23,000 acres. The original settlers were from Petersham and 
Rutland, Mass., and were a hardy and self-reliant race. There 
were no highways for several years after settlement, and the 
nearest mills were at Charlestown and Plymouth. Their frugal 
fare is thus described by a facile writer: 

“ Emmons Stockwell kept a huge mortar, which held about two 
bushels; into this they put their corn, beans and rye; then they 
pounded it with a great wooden pestle, as none but them could 
pound. With this they mixed potatoes, well baked and peeled, 
and the vegetables their tastes might select; the whole was baked 
together into magnificent Thump. Seasoned with good appetites, 
it was found a delicious dish by the early inhabitants of our glori¬ 
ous old town.” 

Harassed by Indians, dispirited by failures, and cheered by no 
bright future, the settlement was at one time to be abandoned; 


82 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


but one da untless spirit clung to the fair valley “ for better or for 
worse,” and, by force of heroic example, saved the colony and 
permanently founded this noble town, set in the loveliest of val¬ 
leys, and circled by distant peaks and mountains. 

The tourist will travel far to find a lovelier village, surrounded 
with more of the varied and romantic in natural scenery, or of 
neatness and advantage in the accommodations for pleasant resi¬ 
dence. The waters are pure in their fresh escape from the bosom 
of great hills; and the summer winds are cooled by contact with 
the bald summits of the mountains. 




































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRATEL. 


83 


A walk of about a mile on the Jefferson road will take those 
unable to visit the mountains, to a point giving a fine view of a 
portion of the White Mountain Eange. 

The visitor at this place will find in the elegant and commodious 
Lancaster House, B. H. Corning, Manager, as fine a hotel 
as the mountain region can boast. Fish, game and fruits, fresh 
from the surrounding region, commodious rooms and liberal 
accommodations in every department, give assurance of personal 
comfort. Drives in the surrounding country and to noted points 
in the mountains from this point will reveal unsurpassed diversity 
and charm in landscape, while the railroad connections are 
such as to afford the greatest facility to travelers and business 
men. The sidewalks and crossings of the village streets are su¬ 
perior to those of many larger towns, adding greatly to the com¬ 
fort and pleasure of citizens and visitors. 

This is the shire town of the highland county of Coos, and here 
centres much of the professional, mechanical and agricultural 
business of northern New Hampshire. Church-going people of 
every denomination can here select their favorite form of worship, 
including an Episcopal Parish recently organized. No better 
society can be found in New England than in this old and pictur¬ 
esque New England town. 

Hillside Cottage, located on a quiet slope, overlooking the 
famed Connecticut meadows, with fine grounds and cool shade, 
is an inviting retreat under the care of W. L. Rowell, proprietor. 

Trains connect with the Grand Trunk Railway, daily, for the 
Canadas, and the eastern approaches to the mountains at Gorham 
and the Glen, and by the Montreal road for the White and Fran¬ 
conia Mountains, the Mount Washington Railway, Lake Winni- 
pesaukee, Boston, the lower cities and New York. Stage leaves 
Lancaster, on arrival of the train from Boston, about 5 o’clock 
p. m. for the 

Waumbek House, Jeffbrson Hills, 

and the other desirable boarding-houses at Jefferson, distant 
seven miles, and located on the slope of Starr King Mountain, 
about two miles from the base. Speaking of the view from these 
hills, Mr. King says: “ They may, without exaggeration, be 

called the ultima thule of grandeur, in an artistic pilgrimage 


84 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


among the New Hampshire Mountains.” Here the mountains, 
marshalled in a vast arc of circling summits, present a wide 
sweep of landscape of a magnitude rarely met even in this land 
of bold and startling prospects. This favorite hotel, kept by 
Merrill & Plaisted, is supplied with the freshest of country 
products from the neighboring pastures and streams, and the 
accommodations are such as must please those who give the 
agreeable landlords their patronage, while the view from its 
piazzas is a changing picture of majestic outline, bathed in sun¬ 
light and swept by moving shadows and changing scenes, 

“ Where, through a sapphire sea, the sun 
Sails like a golden galleon.” 

A footpath leads to the summit of Starr King Mountain, and 
one of the finest summit views in the whole mountain range. 
A good livery stable accommodates guests. The outlook is upon 
the White. Franconia, Green, Cherry and Starr King Mountains. 



The Plaisted House, 


B. H. Plaisted, proprietor, is also upon the slope of this bold 
range, and the view overlooks the grand amphitheatre of hills. 
The experience and liberality of the proprietor is a sufficient 
guarantee of the^comforts to be had within its walls. 






















NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 85 



The &takk Kino Mountain House, 


is another excellent house of entertainment for those who visit this 
favorite point, where lovers of mountain scenery gather to escape 
the heats of summer, and look upon nature in its boldest and love¬ 
liest aspects. C. K. Gile, Esq., proprietor. The surroundings 
and internal arrangements are of the kind to invite continued stay. 



Mount Adams House. 





































86 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


About five miles from Jefferson Hill, on the road to Gorham, 
is the Mount Adams House, in a location sufficiently retired 
to meet the views of the most enthusiastic seekers after quiet, 
and affording views of the mountain chains not surpassed in 
grandeur. William Crawshaw is the gentlemanly proprietor, 
and those who make his house their home will have a home in 
fact while they stay. 

GUILDHALL, YT. 

at Northumberland Falls, is one of tlie pleasantest of country 
villages, located among beautiful scenery and commanding ex¬ 
tensive views of the Connecticut valley. The Essex House, W. 
H. Hartshorn, proprietor, is a good hotel, attractive for families 
for a summer residence. The drives hereabout are superb. The 
good boarding accommodations here found are liberally patron¬ 
ized. 

NORTHUMBERLAND JUNCTION. 

Unite here with the Grand Trunk Railway. A thriving settle¬ 
ment has sprung up at this point since it became important as a 
railroad town. The trains connect at this point with all trains 
over Grand Trunk, to and from Lancaster. 

Without delay passengers may proceed in fine parlor cars, if 
desired, to the great Canadian cities over the line of the 

Grand Trunk Railway. 

The great improvements in progress on this line by change of 
gauge, renewal of rolling stock, and the substitution of steel 
rails, will greatly add to the comfort of patrons and acco mmodate 
the increasing travel to Canadian cities and places of attraction. 
Many tourists leave the cars of this line at North Stratford ; 
here you may find good quarters at the Willard House, and 
take stage from thence to Colebrook, where at the Parson’s 
House, E. F. Bailey, proprietor, conveyance and all needful 
help will be furnished for those visiting the northern mountain 
pass; the stages connect with every express train on the Grand 
Trunk Railway. 


NORTHED PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


87 


DIXVILLE NOTCH 

is the most northern of the great natural wonders that crowd the 
White Mountain region. It is a dreary, forbidding and desolate^ 
pass, between vast decaying ledges and pillars of rock, threading 
the narrow roadway, which is maintained with some difficulty 
at the expense of the State. 

^ It is fast becoming a place of resort from Colebrook, and many 
pass on through the Notch to camp life, by the three lakes at the 
head waters of the Connecticut, and trouting by the wild waters 
of the Magalloway river. Within and about the Notch are 
many objects of interest. The Silver Cascade is a wild waterfall 
at the northern outlet of the Notch. Ladders descend the rocky 
bed leading to the best point for a full view, and seats are ar¬ 
ranged for the convenience of visitors. The Flume is a waterway 
well worth inspection, the bare walls standing squarely upright as 
though hewn by the hand of an artisan. The pulpit is a bold 
buttress of stone, more like the elaborate pulpit of “ ye olden 
times” than the modern style. Here also is a veritable “Old 
Man of the Mountain,” of diminutive size when compared with 
the grand “ Profile V of the Franconia range, but perfect in its 
resemblance to the facial outline. These and other points are in¬ 
dicated by sign-boards liberally scattered along the way by the 
owner of the lands. The ascent to Table Rock (eight hundred 
feet perpendicular height), the highest pinnacle, may now be 
easily made by rude steps cut to facilitate climbing. The view 
from this dizzy height is one to be sought and remembered. 


CHAPTER V. 


THE FRANCONIA RANGE, 


Ok Westerly Group of White Mountains. 


This western range of the White Mountains abounds in 
beautiful and enchanting objects of interest, and wild combi¬ 
nations of scenery, surpassing, perhaps, any other locality. 
Lafayette is the crowning peak, being 5,585 feet above the sea 
level. The ascent is made from the Flume House. 

Franconia Notch is a pass with close and precipitous 
walls, of about five miles in extent, between Mount Lafayette 
and Mount Cannon. The valley is about half a mile in width, 
and is a huge receptacle of the curious, the wild, and the beautiful 
in mountain scenery. The bare walls of Cannon Mountain, on 
the right, as you ride through from the Profile House, are grand 
in their impressive barrenness and lofty height.. 

the great stone portrait 

is the crowning feature of the pass. The grim old “ King of the 
Hills,” ever looking out in unchanging majesty on his wild realm. 
This wonderful copy of the human features, colossal in propor¬ 
tions, yet faithful and clear in its lines, is the great natural 
attraction sought by strangers. The length of the face has been 
ascertained to be not less than eighty feet. It looks from the 
southern face of Cannon or Profile Mountain “ awful but benig¬ 
nant,” enchaining the interest of every beholder—the majestic 
feature of a weird region, of which the poet sings— 

“ For hoary legends to your wilds belong, 

And yours are haunts where inspiration broods.” 




NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


89 


Echo Lake, The Basin, The Pool, The Flume with its 
suspended boulder and cascades, and the ascent of Mount Lafay¬ 
ette are features of the Franconia Range fully described in suc¬ 
ceeding pages, and seen by excursions from the Profile and Flume 
Houses. The facility with which this pass may be reached from 
Littleton or from Plymouth, by stage route u p the valley, and the 
varied beauty and attractiveness of the range brings a yearly in¬ 
creasing tide of Pilgrims to enjoy the wealth of beauty here to be 
found. 

The Profile House, at the northern entrance to the Notch and 
in near vicinity of Eagle Cliff*, Echo Lake and the Profile, is the 
great resort of travelers and tourists, while the smaller but excel¬ 
lently kept and located Flume House, at the southern entrance 
and near the Flume, the Pool and other attractions, is a place of 
much resort. 

The Profile House, Franconia Notch, White 
Mountains, 

has accommodations for five hundred guests, on the most liberal 
and extensive scale. The ample grounds, commanding wide and 
beautiful views, are crowded during the pleasure season with a 
happy company gathered from all parts of the land, who find here 
that cleanliness and attention, with that ample and substantial 
profusion of viands, which mountain air and exercise make, more 
than elsewhere, a necessity. 

The parlor and dining hall are spacious and elegant (about 100 
by 50 feet area), and are lighted with gas. The telegraph runs 
to this point, and the man of business may receive his mails with 
regularity, and send his commands along the wires, while he 
gathers strength in the mountain air, and marvels among the 
mysteries of the hills. Many improvements are yearly made. 
The furnishing is elegant and complete, and the location 
superior. 

Stages leave, twice each day, for Plymouth, via the Pemige- 
wasset valley, and for Littleton, connecting with express trains 
on the Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad; also stages each 
day for Bethlehem, connecting there with rail for Twin Moun¬ 
tain and Fabyan Houses. Mount Washington Railway and the 


90 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


Crawford House are reached by short coach line from either of 
these houses. 



AROUND THE PROFILE HOUSE, 

in near vicinity, the attractions accessible to guests by short 
walks, or carriage or saddle trips, easily made, are more numer- 





















NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


91 


ous and of more wide and deserving notoriety than are to be 
found elsewhere in a long seeking after the picturesque. Front¬ 
ing the hotel is the precipitous crag, towering 1,500 feet above 
the road, known as 

EAGLE CLIFF, 

once the chosen home of mountain eagles, hence the name. The 
cliff is seen to best advantage from Profile Lake, especially 
through the fogs and mists that hang about it at times, or when 
gilded by the lights of morning or fading tints of evening. A 
short ascent up the side of Cannon Mountain gives a point of 
view from which all the boldness of the cliff will be seen standing 
out in impressive majesty. 

To the rear of the hotel, reached by footpath through the 
woods, a small brook plunging in a succession of falls, down the 
rugged ledges of the hillside, gives you, if you are fortunate to 
see it after its volume has been swelled by rains, a most pleasing 
and attractive sight, a fitting introduction to greater wonders yet 
unseen. The pleasing picture spread before you of the quiet 
lake below, the mountains, valleys and forests, which you here 
overlook, will amply repay you for the climbing. 

Beneath “ Eagle Cliff,” northward from the hotel on the Fran¬ 
conia road, locked withiu a circle of hills and embosomed in green 
forest, is the wonderful and widely famed little sheet of water 
known as 

ECHO LAKE. 

Floating upon its silvery surface in the boat provided for 
visitors, you may wake resounding and multiplying echoes from 
the circling mountains. Your halloo comes back from many hills 
as though a mocking circle of sentinels caught up the sound in 
succession, lessening in volume and force until it takes its flight 
far away in the fastnesses of the ravines. The blast of a bugle 
or horn comes back in softened repetition of musical echoes and 
re-echoes, dying out in waves of sound among distant summits. 
Do not omit to visit this wierd spot at the quiet morning or still 
evening hour, when all nature conspires to enhance its loveliness 
and heighten its charms, and the changes of color are no less won- 


92 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 



Echo Lake. 

derful than the reverberations of sound. Horns, bugles, a cannon 
and other instruments for waking echoes, pleasing and terrific, 
are here to be liad for the use of visitors. 

CANNON MOUNTAIN 

is so called from a rock or combination of rocks near the summit 
resembling a huge cannon, seeming to command the passage of 
the Notch from its high position. It is also called Profile Moun¬ 
tain from the renowned “Profile” on its southern wall. The 
summit is about 2,000 feet above the road and 3,500 feet above 
sea level, and its steep sides covered with a thick growth of de¬ 
ciduous trees, stand facing the slopes of Mount Lafayette and 
form the western side of the Notch.- 























NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


93 


The ascent of this mountain, by footpath, is one of the pleasures 
of a visit to Franconia, though possibly there may be more pleas¬ 
ure in the outlook than in the climbing. 

The top is a surface of bald rock, not reached without vigor¬ 
ous exertion. This height gained, you look upon that towering 
cluster of peaks, the White Mountains proper, down the broad 
valley of the Pemigewasset, and upon all the varied contrasts of 
mountain and meadow, lake and village, river and stream, that 
combine in the wide landscape seen from this high summit. 

The ascent of “ Bald Mountain ” is another less tiresome trip, 
made by carriages if you wish, nearly to the summit, but easily 
made by pedestrians. The view is wide in extent, looking down 
into the Notch and its wonders, northward upon the distant 
broken line of hills, and “ Lafayette ” swells high above you to the 
eastward, while the sweeping shadows or trailing vapors roll 
along the rugged slopes, and through the broad valleys, in a 
moving scene of beauty which will fade only with the failure of 
memory. The path to this summit diverges from the Littleton 
road about a mile from the Profile House. 

THE PROFILE, 

or “ Old Man of the Mountain,” is best seen in the sombre lights 
of the coming evening. This bold combination of rocky masses 
forming that wonderful imitation of the outlines of the human 
face, perhaps, more than any other natural feature of the moun¬ 
tains, excites the curiosity of visitors. It is a bold combination 
of rocks forming the granite portrait only when viewed from the 
proper location. Change the point of view, for any considerable 
distance, and the features become a shapeless mass of rocks and 
crags. The rocks which form this wonderful outline are not in 
perpendicular line, but, appearing so, are combined perfectly in 
a sharp, angular and unmistakable imitation of the human face. 

The proper point of view is only about a quarter of a mile from 
the Profile House on the road leading down the Notch. The 
granite face stands out from the southern crest of Cannon Moun¬ 
tain in majestic repose, 1,500 feet above the surface of Pro¬ 
file Lake, unmoved by the mad fury of tempests and storms, 


94 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 



The Profile. 


or the golden touch of morning sunlight, looking out from its 
rocky throne, insensible to passion, pleasure or pain, with the 
sharp and stony lines of the immobile face set in unchangeable 
grandeur, solemn and awe-inspiring with its ages of exposure to 
the storms and tempests, the admiration of thousands who look 
upon it with bated breath. When viewed in the coming twilight, 
there is no need of calling on the imagination to conjure out of 
the rocky outlines the “ Great Stone Face.” 

“ Full human profile, nose and chin distinct, 

Mouth muttering rhythms of silence up the sky, 

And fed at evening with the blood of suns.” 

Under the full glare of the midday sun it is seen + o least advan¬ 
tage, but, when “shadowed with clouds and the glorified vapor 





















NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAYEL. 


95 


of the mountains clustering about it,” all the grandeur of the 
bold outlines are apparent. Viewed from any other point than 
theilocality named, it is an unmeaning mass of jagged rocks—a 
chaotic ruin. The fine imagination of Hawthorne likens it. to 
“ a mighty angel sitting among the hills, and enrobing himself in 
a cloud vesture of gold and purple.” 

It is a weird spot to spend the evening hour by the shores of 
Profile Lake, under the benignant face set in granite outlines, 
among slopes down which highland rivulets plunge over tilted 
walls of rock, the clustering hills where echoes reverberate, and 
“ clouds trail their soft shadows in the gathering mist.” 



Profile Lake. 














96 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


At the base of Cannon Mountain, directly beneath the over¬ 
hanging portrait of the “ Old Man,” is a beautiful sheet of water, 
a quarter of a mile long by one-eighth of a mile wide, sleeping in 
the. green forests which enclose it and hang in shadow in its pure 
depths. The quiet beauty of the scene will excite the admiration 
of-the coldest nature. Fanciful names have been bestowed upon 
it, such as the “ Old Man’s Mirror ” and “ Old Man’s Washbowl ”; 
but however named, or if nameless, it is one of the gems in the 
gallery of mountain pictures seen in Franconia. It is the home 
of that lover of cool mountain streams and lakes, the beautiful 
trout, for which you must angle with skill, for no careless hand 
secures this wary beauty. You must also visit the Trout 
House, just below, where these shy beauties are seen by hun¬ 
dreds. 

THE ASCENT OF MOUNT LAFAYETTE. 

The climbing of this, the highest peak of the Franconia .range 
(height, 5,100 feet,) is considered second only in interest to the 
ascent of Mount Washington. A half day’s absence from the 
hotel is necessary for the trip, and horses with the necessary con¬ 
veniences for the ascent are kept at the base, with competent 
guides for the accommodation of tourists. 

A new bridle path has been built for the lower half of the 
ascent, winding up the ravine just south of Eagle Cliff, leaving 
the highway almost opposite the hotel, shortening the distance 
some three miles. 

A shelter has been provided upon the summit for the protec¬ 
tion of visitors, and the prospect is one of the widest which invites 
the eye in the whole mountain region; looking away over the 
great intervening reach of. hills and valleys to distant Katahdin 
on the very eastern outpost of the army of hills; upon the great 
cluster of mountain inonarehs, of which Washington is the peer¬ 
less centre; upon the northern peaks away beyond Lancaster; 
across the Connecticut Valley upon the hills of Vermont and the 
swelling crests of the Green Mountains, the valley of the Con¬ 
necticut and the villages on either side, the wild “Ammonoosuc,” 
and the villages of Littleton and Bethlehem. The southern view 
is down the fair valley of the Femigewasset, while great Moosi- 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


97 


lauk swells nobly into view and Monadnock and Kearsarge 
bound the vision. 

DOWN THE NOTCH. 

As you ride down the Notch, from the Profile House, the bare 
rocky wall of Cannon (or Profile) Mountain is to the right with 
a forest covered base. At the proper point the huge rocks com¬ 
bine in the “ Great Stone Face,” and dissolve again in ruin. The 
scene on either hand is bold, startling and novel. Among attrac¬ 
tions most noted are 

walker’s falls. 

These falls are a half mile from the roadway down the Notch. 
The path diverges from the main way, some three miles below the 
Profile House. Following a small brook, which here crosses the 
road from the west, a succession of picturesque waterfalls are 
reached, leaping over the rocky shelves or sliding over the moun¬ 
tain slopes which form the bed of the little torrent broken into 
foam by impeding masses of rock. A half day’s climbing along 
the course of this brook will afford you a succession of pleasant 
surprises as you follow its worn channel in the rock, its gliding 
course over the water-worn granite, its successive leaps over the 
ledges, mingling its waters with those of the fair Pemigewasset, 
which soon pours its limpid flood over the granite rim of the 

BASIN, 

some three and one-half miles south of the Profile House. This 
granite reservoir is a worn and curious cavity in the solid rocks, 
close by the roadway; evidently made by the whirling of rocks 
in the eddying currents; the waters sweep the circle several times 
in swift rotation before making their exit at the opposite side. 
The circular walls are very smooth and regular, the water falling 
within it in a pretty cascade over the brim and making it3 exit by 
a channel worn into a fancied resemblance to the human leg, 
hence the outlet is sometimes known as the “ Old Man’s Leg.” 

The diameter of the Basin is about forty feet, the depth to the 
bottom twenty-eight feet, with a usual depth of twelve feet of 
water. 


7 


98 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


A small stream among the hills to the left of the Basin flows 
over the granite ledges on the mountain slope in picturesque and 
musical descent, forming a succession of the most lovely cascades 
which may be followed up with pleasure to the upper fall, where 
the stream plunges in a leap of some twenty-five feet. 

The Flume House. 

This house is a small and well kept hotel, very pleasantly lo¬ 
cated, facing Mount Liberty, in the vicinity of the Flume, the 
Basin, the Pool, and other natural objects of interest, affording 
from its very doors a view of the three great peaks of this range, 
Lafayette, Liberty and Pleasant, their harsh outlines somewhat 
softened by the distance, and of the wide valley of the Pemige- 
wasset, in all its picturesque and quiet beauty. 

This house is kept by the proprietors of the Profile House, and 
visitors will find it a pleasant spot in which to spend their season 
of leisure, be it short or protracted. 

THE CASCADES 

are below the Flume and drop in gradual descent of several hun¬ 
dred feet in musical silver lines and gliding sheets of pure 
emerald waters over the wide, smooth, granite inclining plane, 
fretted more and more as you ascend to the Flume by the help 
of rustic bridges, with many charming basins and pools of trans¬ 
parent water. Tou reach these wonders from the road by a 
pleasant path through the forests, a portion of which' is graded 
as a carriage road. 

THE FLUME. 

This central wonder of this part of the valley is a narrow, 
rocky ravine or worn channel, with perpendicular walls on either 
side of fifty to sixty feet in height and some twenty feet apart. 
Within these regular and moss-covered rocks, evidently rent 
asunder by some throe of nature, a small stream threads its way, 
in lovely confusion and perplexing disturbance along the broken 
bed of huge rocks which, from time to time, have fallen from the 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


99 



The Flume. 


walls. The visitor can ascend through this shadowed and won¬ 
derful glen, which extends some eight hundred feet between 
walls, apparently the work of Titans in the olden time; a rude 
pathway of planks and needful artificial helps protecting him 
from all disagreeable contact with the murmuring stream bub¬ 
bling and complaining among the rocks below, and resting often 
in lovely pools and fissures. 

At one point the grand fissure contracts to a span of twelve 
feet and holds suspended, apparently with slightest security, 
“ The Great Stone Wedge,” an enormous egg-shaped boulder of 
many tons weight, an object of active speculation and lively 
curiosity, causing an involuntary tremor as you pass beneath. 
The road to the “ Flume ” diverges from the turnpike directly in 










100 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


front of the Flume House. In good weather a visit to this won¬ 
der before breakfast is a grand experience and a good appetizer. 

THE POOL. 

After viewing the wonders of the Flume you take the path 
leading through the forest; leaving the road near the hotel sta¬ 
bles and following it for half a mile you reach the Pool, a vast 
natural well, somewhat regular in form and outline, excavated or 
worn in the solid granite bed, a sort of immense basin repeated 
on a grand scale. A small stream flows over the brim from the 
north, and through a narrow fissure opposite the amber waters 
find exit. 

The span of the rim of this gloomy natural reservoir is about 
one hundred and fifty feet, the depth is about one hundred and 
Dinety feet, with forty feet of water in its sullen depths. The 
beauty of the Cascades, the Basin and the Flume does not pertain 
to the Pool, but as a curiosity not to be omitted in the tour of 
mountain wonders, it will amply repay your visit. A clumsy 
boat sails upon the gloomy and circumscribed circuit of its wa¬ 
ters. Steps lead down within the walls and quite likely you will 
spend some time within this solemn temple where, if alone, and 
to dreaming inclined,you may muse for hours ere you comeback 
to the brightness of the world again; vvliat a place for Haw¬ 
thorne to weave the fine threads of his fancy into a weird and 
wondrous tale. 


HARVARD OR GEORGIANA FALLS. 

Diverging from the Lincoln Turnpike, some two miles below 
the Flume Hotel, you shortly reach a brook leaping down the 
hillside, west of the roadway, in cascades which are among the 
very finest of the valley. 

The little stream at one point takes a great leap of eighty feet 
over the ledge to bound off in another of nearly equal fall, flash¬ 
ing a line of silver sheen through the arching fringe of shrubbery 
that serves to heighten its beauty. Down a rugged, broken 
descent of three-fourths of a mile the waters leap to meet the 
quiet river below. Looking upwards along the bed of the stream 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


101 


as you ascend, the sight is one of rare beauty; each stage of ele¬ 
vation developes new attractions in the fall itself and the views of 
the valley below, caught in broken vistas between the forest 
trees; while from the summit of the ridge you have an outlook 
not to be forgotten in memories of your journey among the hills. 
Miniature basins of the purest water, here and there along its 
course, excite the admiration of the observing. 

These latter wonders are in the romantic town of Lincoln; the 
first named, around the Profile House, are in Franconia. The 
stage route from the Profile passes down the Pemigewasset 
valley, previously described in the approach by this route from 
Plymouth. 

MOUNT PEMIGEWASSET, 

in rear of the Flume House, may be ascended with no great 
difficulty by visitors of either sex, and the view, especially at sun¬ 
set, is one of the rare delights of the journey, the setting sun 
bathing the grand outlines of the wide landscape in a blaze of 
glory and splendor and gilding the gorges and peaks with sub¬ 
dued and waving lights. 

Only those whose limited time and means prevent further pro¬ 
gress will leave the Franconia region without pushing on to the 
still more grand and impressive, though not more beautiful or 
varied scenery around Mount Washington and the White Moun¬ 
tain Notch, described in the next chapter. 


CHAPTER VI. 


THE WHITE MOUNTAIN RANGE. 


A modern writer has, in poetic and expressive language, de¬ 
scribed the mountains as “outbursts of the globe’s passion”— 
“witnesses of a pent-up fury”—“upspringing wedges of rock, 
flinging the garment of soil away, tilting and separating the strata 
through which they break, and standing bare for t .e scrutiny of 
science.” 

Terrible mnst have been the throes of nature which upheaved 
the masses of the granite hills—known in common language as 
the White Mountains —given as a general name for the whole 
mountain region of northern New Hampshire, but properly be¬ 
longing to the eastern and more extensive range, of which 
Mount Washington (6,285 feet in height) is the crowning glory. 
They are called White from the fact that, during the larger part 
of the year the snow remains upon the towering summits, yield¬ 
ing only to the intense heat of mid-summer, and are the highest 
peaks east of the Mississippi, excepting the high summits of the 
Black Mountains in North Carolina. 

The “White Mountain Notch” is the frowning pass peculiar 
to this range; also the pass known as Pinkham Notch, and, away 
to the north, Dixville Notch. The range covers some forty miles 
square of country, and lies in the counties of Coos and Grafton. 

The principal summits are Mount Webster, (4,000 feet eleva¬ 
tion); Mount Jackson, (4,000 feet); Mount Clinton, (4,200 feet); 
Mount Pleasant, (4,800 feet); Mount Franklin, (4,900 feet); 
Mount Monroe, (5,300 feet); Mount Jefferson, (5,710 feet); 




NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


103 


Mount Adams, (5,800 feet); and Mount Washington, (6,285 
feet). On the top of Mount Jefferson is „a pond of considerable 
extent, with no visible outlet, but with waters clear as crystal 
and cold as ice. The ascent of this summit is seldom made, so 
rugged is the way. 

Within the central cluster of the highest peaks of this range, in 
near proximity, are the sources of the Ammonoosuc, the Saco, the 
Peabody, Ellis and Moose Risers; the waters of one reaching 
Long Island Sound through the winding Connecticut, the others, 
by western slopes, reach the Atlantic on the eastern coast. 
Along these rivers, and on the swift mountain streams which 
feed them, are the cascades and falls , which relieve the rugged¬ 
ness of the slopes and gorges as laughter lightens the hum-drum 
realities of every day business. In the swales around the moun¬ 
tains are the great forests whence the lumbermen supply the 
demand of the older towns. There is a story of a pine in the old 
primeval forests towards Lancaster, 264 feet in height, long since 
put to use. 

The Notch, only twenty-two feet wide at its entrance, 
next to Mount Washington, and the view from its summit is the 
great natural feature of the range. It is three miles in length, 
the towering cliffs reaching in some places 2,000 feet in height. 
The Crawford House is near its northern entrance, and is the 
point from which to visit its wonders. The head waters of the 
Saco flow through the pass, which is the thoroughfare for travel 
from Littleton, Bethlehem, and localities on the Connecticut and 
Ammonoosuc to Conway and the Saco Valley, or the reverse; 
though, since the completion of the 

Mount Washington Railway, 

much of the pleasure travel goes over Mount Washington, 
ascending by rail for three miles from the lower station to the 
Mount Washington House, recently erected on the summit. 
This road, rising in some portions 2,000 feet to the mile, and an 
average rise of one foot in four, offers a mode of ascent which has 
become the great sensation of the mountain tour. Descending on 
the east side to the Glen House, by the carriage roadway, the 


104 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


excursionist has a delightful and novel experience of mountain 
staging, with little of tatigue or exhausting effort. This journey 
of a day is not one to be forgotten. Well might Whittier sing: 

“With smoking axle hot with speed, with steeds of fire and steam, 
Wide-waked to-day, leases yesterday behind him like a dream.” 

Passengers on the Wing Railroad (the branch previously 
described leading to this point) may stop at Bethlehem or 
pass on to the large, first-class and commodious 





































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


105 


Twin Mountain House, 

A. T. & O. F. Barron, proprietors. One of tlie largest, finest 
and most complete of the mountain hotels, situated on the Am- 
monoosuc River, commanding a full view of the Franconia and 
White Mountains, and extensively patronized as a convenient 
point of rest from the fatigue of railway travel before attempting 
the rugged ascents, and also as a delightful place of rest after 
returning from the somewhat exhausting tour of the summits. 

From this house it is but ten miles to the Crawford House, (five 
by rail, five by stage,) ten miles to the depot of the Mount Wash¬ 
ington Railway, where cars are taken for a trip over the famed 
rail line to the crowning summit, eleven miles to the Waumbek 
House in Jefferson, thirty miles to the Glen House, and twenty- 
eight miles to Gorham, by the Cherry Mountain road. 

The express train reaches this station at 4 o’clock p. m., and 
continuing on arrives at 

The White Mountain House, 

R. D Rounsvel, proprietor, which is one of the older mountain^ 
houses at the base of Cherry Mountain. The landloard is a 
genial and experienced resident, familiar with every phase of 
mountaineering, and will entertain with good cheer and sub¬ 
stantial fare. An excellent livery and experienced drivers are 
provided, and it is a good point from which to take trips through 
the picturesque region of the hills hereabouts. Leaving here the 
train arrives at 

The Fabyan House 

at half-past four o’clock p. m. This house is about one-half mile 
from the White Mountain House, and near the junction of the 
Mount Washington turnpike, and the road to the Crawford 
House. This new, commodious, and elegant hotel has been 
lately erected, near the site of the old building destroyed by fire 
in 1S68, the proprietors not being deterred from rebuilding by the 
tradition of the red man’s curse in the olden time, or the fiery 
ordeal of the past. 


106 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


This new and first-class house is the largest and most complete 
of the hotels in this section of the mountains; the accommoda¬ 
tions are for four hundred and fifty guests, and are on the most 
liberal scale. The view from its piazzas is directly upon Mount 
Washington and the mountain railway. A large farm is con¬ 
nected, supplying milk and other luxuries. Mr. Lindsay, 
formerly of the Eagle Hotel, Concord, and Mr. J. M. French, 
formerly of the Pemigewasset House, Plymouth, N. H., will do 
honor to their position as proprietors, and their past experience 
is a guarantee of future success. 



The Fabyan House 


has been built by a company, who saw the need of a better house 
in this section, to accommodate the greatly increasing travel. 
Two hundred thousand dollars have been invested in buildings 
and farm, and it is the design of the proprietors to keep it in the 
best possible manner. Spacious and high studded rooms, tele¬ 
graph office, first-class livery, billiard-room, bath room, band of 
music, etc. The elevation is 2,000 feet above sea level. No hay 
fever or asthmatic difficulties. Best Concord coaches, with ex¬ 
perienced drivers, run to the foot of Mount Washington Railway, 
connecting with trains up the mountain side. 















NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


107 


Near these mountain houses are some of the wild falls of the 
Ammonoosuc River, the course of which no tourist should fail to 
explore in this vicinity. 


MOUNT PEABODY, 

formerly Mount Prospect, easily ascended from these points by 
carriage road, affords from the summit a beautiful view of the 
western slope of the mountains. 

MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

The Turnpike, Mountain Railway, Hotel and View 
from Summit. 

This imperial summit of the great northern range reaches the 
height of 6,285 feet, and overlooks all surrounding peaks, afford¬ 
ing the widest outlook of any summit on the northern or eastern 
coast. 

Approached by the Mount Washington Turnpike and Railway 
on the west, and the carriage road, from the Glen House, on the 
east, tourists can ascend by railway and return by carriage road 
to the Glen, or if the ascent is made from the Glen can return by 
railway, thus in either case getting full experience of this journey, 
which must be enjoyed in all its novelty to be fully appreciated. 

Presuming that you start from the hospitable shelter of the 
Fabyan House you take one of the Concord coaches and advance 
by the 

MOUNT WASHINGTON TURNPIKE, 

now a safe thoroughfare, recently put in good condition at heavy 
expense, into the immediate neighborhood of the great hills, pass¬ 
ing in your trip'the upper falls on the Ammoonosuc. Here the 
river flows in a narrow, winding channel in the rocks, lashed into 
foam by its wild rush between walls of granite and among imped¬ 
ing boulders. These falls extend for the distance of some three 
hundred feet, and have a descent of about fifty feet. The tourist 
finds in the rugged beauty of the massive walls, the curious hoi- 


108 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


lowing and shaping of the rocks by the continual action of musi¬ 
cal waters, in the surrounding scenery and peculiar charm of the 
rapids, a feature not to be omitted in the chain of mountain pic¬ 
tures. 

Winding along the base of Mount Washington and up to the 
station of the railway, you are made sensible of your approach 
to the great central attraction of the hills. The burly forms of 
the surrounding peaks swell up on every hand, seeming at times 
to stand as an impenetrable barrier to your further progress, but, 
continuing on, you reach Ammonoosuc Station, at Marshfield, the 
lower terminus of the 

MOUNTAIN RAILWAY. 

This renowned mountain railway was chartered by the State 
Legislature (as one of the members remarked,) on the same prin¬ 
ciple that one might have been chartered to the moon; the one 
being, to the ordinary mind, as practicable as the other; but the 
energy and practical ingenuity, and persistence under discourage¬ 
ment and ridicule, of Sylvester Marsh, Esq., the projector and 
inventor, with the efficient aid of J. E. Lyon, Esq , President of 
the Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad, and Walter Aiken, 
Esq., of Franklin, who built the engines and cars, and the finan¬ 
cial aid of railways and individuals, accomplished the feat and 
established the practical working of the enterprise, which abol¬ 
ishes, in great measure, the hardships of mountain climbing. 

The length of the railway is about three miles. The total rise 
from the lower station to Mount Washington House, on the sum¬ 
mit, is 3,625 feet; the steepest grade is 1,980 feet to the mile, 
about one foot in three, but averaging through the entire course 
one foot in four. 

The road-bed is constructed with special reference to safety 
and durability, of heavy timber, clamped to the rocks of the 
mountain slope, and braced and secured in the strongest manner. 
The track is of the usual gauge, with side rails of the usual railway 
pattern, and a central safety rail, constructed of two parallel bars of 
angle iron, with cross bolts of one and one-half inch round iron, at 
intervals of about four inches; between these bolts play the cogs 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


109 



of a central wheel of the locomotive. In addition to ordinary 
brakes the atmospheric brakes, instantaneous iu their action, are 
in use, and, following and dropping into the notch-rim of the 
driving-wheel, is a firm iron support which would effectually pre¬ 
vent the descent of the train in case of injury to the machinery. 
Hollers running under tlie angle iron prevent jumping or slip¬ 
ping from the track. With these arrangements for safety, the 
passenger need feel no alarm or apprehension of danger, the trip 


Mount Washington Railway. 

being as safe as ordinary rail transit, no accident having oc¬ 
curred in the five years the road has been in operation, nor dam¬ 
age of a penny, to life, limb or material, during the time of con¬ 
struction or since its operation as a line of travel. 

The locomotive is of novel construction, being made with 
especial reference to the steep inclination of the road, and, when 
standing upon the level track, appears sadly out of balance. 
Safety and power are attained in the construction at the expense 
of speed, which is not sought. The locomotive is always below 












no 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


the train, pushing the coaches upward as you ascend, and pre 
ceding them in the return down the slope. The cars have seats 
hung at an angle, facing toward the base. 

The superintendent is Capt. J. W. Dodge, whose interest in 
this novel line of travel is equalled only by his willingness to 
satisfy the many inquiries of the thousands who for the first time 
ascend the mountain side by the “ Sensation Route.” 

Single fares either way are $3, or for both ways, $5. Trunks 
and heavy baggage involve an extra charge according to space 
occupied; but ordinary hand baggage is carried free of expense. 
The baggage of parties returning from this point will be checked 
through to their destination, if upon the routes previously de¬ 
scribed. 

The ascent is made in an hour and a quarter, including the 
stoppages for water, and somewhat less in the downward trip, 
which is made by force of gravity alone, regulated by the brakes. 
The telegraph wires extend to the summit. 

No three miles of railway in the world afford such a succession 
of wild and startling views as the passenger has on his mountain 
ride on this iron line up the steep inclination of Mount Washing¬ 
ton. Glimpses of the valley below, through which winds the 
turnpike, the wide broken view of the valley and mountain, the 
Great Gulf to the left, into the depths of winch you look with 
shrinking and trepidation, and, nearing the summit, an eastward 
view down into the Glen, with the white buildings of the Glen 
House, a speck in the valley below. 

The monument of stones near the summit marks the spot; 
where, in 1855, Lizzie Bourne, of Maine, died from exposures! 
as further described in the description of ascent from theHj«j 
House by carriage road. The water stations on the 
called by appropriate names, such as Gulf Statiom^BmmbeK 
Station, etc. 

Above Waumbek Station is Jacob’s Ladder—a long, high 
trestle work on a steep incline; here the change in vegetation 
from trees to lichens is most marked. As the train stops to re¬ 
ceive supply of water, from cisterns supplied by springs, impres¬ 
sive views of the valleys are had, and the wild winds of the upper 
air currents assert their strength at a point on the ridge between 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


111 



Mounts Clay and Washington, the passenger looks down a thous¬ 
and feet into the “ Gulf of Mexico,”—a wild chasm in which a 
branch of Peabody River has its source. From this point the 
ascent is more gradual. 

The journey of a day, from Boston to Mount Washington sum¬ 
mit,. is one of magnificent contrasts. The tourist, who all day 
l^ig ^has been whirled along the valleys of New England’s fairest 
rivers,^^!^igh a panorama of green fields and by sparkling 
lakes, willi^iimpses of distant hills and mountains, may end the 
day in the delig%ful stage ride and sensational climbing by rail, 
leaving behind the vegetation of the plains and the luxuriant for¬ 
ests around the mountain’s base, pass the belt where thrive only 
the hardier shrubs, and the fir tree is dwarfed to the span of a 
lady’s hand, into the region of Alpine plants and the lichens and 
mosses peculiar to the icy regions around the pole, till on the 


















112 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


bare rocks of the nearly level plateau, on this highest northern 
outlook east of the Rocky Mountains, 

The Mount Washington House, 

the new hotel at the summit serving the double purpose of depot 
building and hotel, receives the tired traveler within its hospita¬ 
ble doors for a night among the clouds. This new house at the 
summit, erected in 1872, and furnished and opened for visitors 
the past season, has accommodations for one hundred and fifty 
guests. It is conveniently furnished, and telegraphic and other 
iacilities arc afforded the guests who spend the night beneath its 
hospitable roof. All the substantials and luxuries furnished at 
the mountain houses are provided for the tables, and the furnish¬ 
ing and management is such as to please all who may be so 
fortunate as to enjoy them. Captain Dodge, the manager of the 
Mount Washington Railway, is the manager of this new hotel, 
a sure guarantee of attention to the travelers’ wants. All the 
necessary provisions for comfort aud ease are provided, and, in 
case the house should be overcrowded, the older and well known 
Tip-Top and Summit houses will receive you within their more 
primitive doors. From this high altitude ol a mile and a quarter 
above sea level, we can now look down along the grand incline, 
up which in vast billow's of laud the hills have advanced from the 
level sea-beach to this peerless height, and around upon moun¬ 
tains “ named, nameless and numberless,” over the vast extent 
of view which the mountain, personified by Emerson, thus 
tersely describes: 

“ Every morn I lift my head, 

Gaze o’er New England underspread, 

South from St. Lawrence to the sound, 

From Catskill east to the sea hound.” 

VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT. 

“ Crag heaped on crag, with many a fiery rift and hoary summit.” 

The magnitude of the wide stretch of country seen from this 
high altitude, when first sw ept by the eye, is overpowering and 



The Mount Washington House 











































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































114 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


confusing from its extent and combinations. You imagine that 
the crust of earth has been tossed on a boiling caldron, and, at 
the touch of some mighty power, been congealed at the moment 
of wildest ebullition—a sea of sweeping ranges and isolated 
peaks, broad valleys and forests, sparkling lakes and sinuous 
streams above you. 

*•' The sky bends round 
The awful dome of a most mighty temple, 

Built by Omnipotent hand for nothing lets 
Than infinite worship.” 

The wild and rocky, but somewhat regular plateau of the sum¬ 
mit appears as an island surrounded by a petrified sea of hills. 
The jagged and bare peaks of the adjacent mountains, separated 
by ravines and gulfs of vast depth and outline, are the most im¬ 
pressive feature uf the wide panorama. 

If you are fortunate to gain an unobstructed view through the 
wide circle, you will look northward over the billowy land to the 
plains of Canada; to the northeast on the far distant forests of 
Maine, with the dim outline of Katahdin just visible in the dis¬ 
tance, while near at hand the great attendant mountains of this 
group—Jefferson, Adams and Madison—tower in the foreground, 
a grand cluster of dark and rugged summits. Mount Jackson is 
on the southeast, close at hand, with the symmetrical, lone sum¬ 
mit of Pequaket (Kiarsarge at North Conway,) in the distance, 
and Sebago Lake and the surrounding country in Maine, and, 
sometimes, the faint blue line of the ocean, scarcely to be separated 
from the sky in the far distance. Southward is the valley of the 
Saco with its villages, the sharp pyramids of Chucorua and the 
gleam of fair Winnipesaukee. Southwesterly the remaining 
mountains of this range, Mount Monroe with its rocky peak and 
the Twin ponds, Mount Pleasant with its regular outline, Mount 
Franklin with a more level surface, Mount Willey and the further 
range of wooded hills. Westward, the valley of the Ammonoosuc, 
the village of Bethlehem, the naked summit of Mount Lafayette 
in Franconia, the broken silver line of'rivers, and in the dim dis¬ 
tance the Green Mountains, with Mount Mansfield and Camel’s 
Hump. Northwest, the picturesque town of Jefferson, Pondi- 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


115 


cherry in the embrace of forests, and further distant the village of 
Lancaster. 

Viewed in the light of the setting sun, or when morning lights 
burn off the vapors from the face of the wide landscape, the scene 
is one which pen cannot describe nor pencil portray, but which 
memory will not fail to cherish as the choicest revelation of 
nature to be seen in a lifetime. Fortune does not always favor 
the tourist, and he may sometimes stand upon this lofty height, 
veiled in impenetrable mist, and the gloom of clouds, hiding the 
grand outlines which he knows lie beneath and around him. 

If the rare privilege is given you to look through the clear 
and unobstructed light of early summer, or later autumn, on this 
blending scene of complex and overpowering grandeur and 
beauty, over which the contrasts of light and shade play upon a 
scale wider than humau eye is often privileged to view; the 
grand sweep of masses of clouds and the attendant trailing 
shadows beneath; the scrolls of mist that ride upon the winds 
and the shadows of great summits throwing their sombre veil 
over whole townships as tlie sun declines, all inspire you with the 
feeling that you have been admitted into near and familiar con¬ 
tact with scenes in nature heretofore unknown to you, and 
perhaps, to crown all, while you are dreaming, a roaring storm 
gathers on the unsheltered cone and you shrink to nothingness 
in the midst of its resistless fury. The storm, the lightning, and 
the clouds are not from above, but you are in the midst of or 
above them. 

WINTER ABOVE THE CLOUDS. 

On the bald summit of Washington, in the teeth of winter 
hurricanes, the daring and scientific gentlemen live in arctic 
seclusion, each winter, among the dense clouds and roaring 
tempests of the great height, alternating with brilliant sunsets, 
shows of frost-work, and cloud-views, an experience of “ high 
life,” grand and sublime, the better appreciated by the earnest 
natures who have experienced it, for the spice of danger and 
novelty of experience here had. Occasional visitors relieve the 
monotony of their solitary life, two ladies being of the number 
who made the ascent the past winter. It is a peculiar experience 


116 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


for those who so courageously brave the exposure. Oceans of 
clouds pierced by snow capped peaks, all below being hidden in 
impenetrable frost-clouds, the swift growth of clouds and storms 
and almost irresistible force of the winds, with the lonely lack of 
all animate life, are the grand peculiarities of their winter exp> 
rience. 

The Crawford House 

is situated at the gate of the White Mountain or Crawford 
Notch. It is one of the finest in its plan of the mountain houses, 
the piazzas, of ample width, extending the entire length of the 
building. It stands upon a plain 2,000 feet above sea level. A 
small lake near the Notch gate is the source of the Saco, and 
the Ammonoosuc is also supplied from springs on the same plain. 
A. T. & O. F. Barron are the proprietors of the house, and C. 
H. Merrill, Esq., their popular associate in the management. 
This is the house naturally chosen by visitors to the Notch, being 
located at the very gates, and is also a convenient halting place 
for those passing through from North Conway, or returning to 
that point. 



The Crawford House. 


Tourists formerly ascended from this house to the summit of 
Mount Washington by bridle path, but since the opening of the 
Mountain Railway, the path has fallen into disuse and is out of 
repair. The house is in every respect first-class, and accommo¬ 
dates some three hundred guests. Near to the house are 

GIBBS’ FALLS, 

so named for a former landlord of the hotel. They are reached 
by a walk of a half hour from the hotel. Here the brook makes 










NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


117 


a leap of nearly forty feet, in two sheets of white foam, separated 
by a small islet, on which a lone pine tree stands guard. A 
succession of lesser falls on the same stream will tempt you to 
further exploration. 

BEECHER’S FALLS CASCADE, 

only about a half mile from the hotel, is upon the little mountain 
brook which flows down the slope to the right of the road, 
reached by a shaded pathway. In one of the pools of this stream 
the eminent divine whose name they bear was “ immersed,” not 
intentionally, but like other men, he “ fell.” He describes the 
brook as, at one point, “ whirling itself into a plexus of cords,” 
or a “pulsating braid of water.” For more than a fourth of a 
mile the stream sweeps down over rocks hung with mosB, and 
through channels worn in beautiful contour, arched with green 
leaves and luxuriant trees. 

The location of the house is on a fine plateau, and a pleasant 
grove in front gives ample lounging space if you are disposed to 
take life easy and avoid the fatigue of continual sight-seeing and 
climbing. 

THE WHITE MOUNTAIN OR “CRAWFORD” NOTCH. 

Next to the ascent of Mount Washington, and previous to that 
if you do not return, you will wish to explore the attractions of 
this widely-famed pass in the mountains. The peculiar grandeur 
of this vast and awful gorge cannot be described in words, and 
the artist transmits the grand outlines but imperfectly. On 
either hand, the forbidding line of precipices tower above you in 
imposing grandeur, and you halt and turn to admire its savage 
ruggedness. It extends for a distance of about three miles, run¬ 
ning from northwest to southeast. 

The “ Gate of the Notch ” is in the near vicinity of the Craw¬ 
ford House, and is a chasm between perpendicular rocks, distant 
from each other but twenty-two feet; the diminutive stream 
flowing at one side is the commencement of the Saco River, 
which runs with rapid course and increasing volume through the 
fairest of valleys to the sea. 


118 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


Eiding down the Notch from the Crawford House, through the 
“ gates,” you pass within the wild gorge, and if you have a guide 
or companion versed in the localities of the great ravine your 
eye and mind will be intent upon a series of views and objects, of 
which it were foolish to attempt minute description other than by 
name and general outline. Just before entering the “gates” a 
path diverges to the left, leading to “ The Elephant’s Head.” 

“ Pulpit Rock ” is a great overhanging column of stone, the 
form of which is best indicated by its name, a bold buttress or 
column. 

The “ Baby,” the “Young Man of the Mountain” and the 
“Grandmother” will be pointed out, figures more or less distinct, 
formed by jutting masses of rock on the ragged walls. The 
“gates,” at the entrance, are but twenty-two feet in width, and 
“Sentinel Rock” stands guard near the entrance. It is to be re¬ 
gretted that the line of the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad, 
now being graded through the Notch, necessitates the destruc¬ 
tion of some of these curious outlines and destroys the natural 
wildness of the “ Gates.” The “ Old Maid ” is a most venerable 
specimen of the anxious and aimless class, while the “ African 
Face ” is of unmistakable Ethiopian outline, high up on a spur 
of Mount Willard to the right, as you ride down the Notch from 
the Crawford House. At a bend in the road, nearly a mile from 
the gateway, is one of the most impressive scenes in the Notch, 
where the great outlines of Mounts Webster, Willey and Willard 
crowd in concentrated sweeping lines upon the narrow way. 
Further on, at the Willey House, the pass is more open and the 
long range of walls on either hand have more of regularity, and 
the gorge is more open. 

THE WILLEY HOUSE. 

This house is located under the steep acclivity of Mount 
Willey, which rises some 2,000 feet behind the house, and opposite 
is the forbidding front of Mount Webster, the little Saco river 
flowing near by. The kind and hospitable Samuel Willey, Jr., 
lived here at the time of the great calamity. 

On the night of Monday, the 28th of August, 1826, occurred 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


119 


that terrible storm which fed the mountain branches of the Saco 
and the Ammonoosuc, and changed the limpid current from a 
gentle running stream to a mad rush of whirling waters, breaking 
old bounds and roaring in lawless torrents, freighted with the 
loosened soil and trees swept from the steep sides of the over¬ 
hanging hills; during this terrible night the tragic disaster of the 
Willey House occurred; the house itself received no injury, but 
the frightened inmates who sought safety by flight from the mad 
fury of the crashing slides, were found buried in the debris below. 
The faithful house dog, escaping unhurt, appeared at Co n way ^ 
and by all the resources of brute intellect, sought to give tidings 
of the calamity, failing in which he disappeared at the top of his 
speed, and afterwards, though occasionally seen, was missing. 
The father, mother, five children, and two hired men perished; 
the bodies of two sons and a daughter were never found. 

The burial service of these victims of tragic death, as performed 
on the spot, are described as singularly impressive. The words 
of the solemn prayer of the good elder, offered with distinct and 
measured utterance, came back in slow and solemn echoes from 
the seamed walls of the circling mountains. 

The slopes of Mount Willey are quite bare, having only enough 
of soil to furnish root-hold for the scanty crop of dwarfed birches 
that somewhat relieve the desolation of the scarred walls. 

Riding back from the Willey House the black mou th of the 
“ Devil’s Den ” is seen high up in the Rocky front of Mount 
Willard. 


DRIVE TO THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT WILLARD. 

This safe and easy shaded ascent of about two miles may be 
made in carriages from the hotel, or without difficulty by ped es- 
trians. Emerging from the forest you come out upon a level 
plateau on the very verge of the sheer precipice,going down into 
the yawning depth of the Notch. It is a grand outlook—the key 
to the beauties of this famed mountain pass, and, if viewed u nder 
favorable lights, you linger upon the rocky plateau, loth to lose 
the impression of the actual scene—the grand outline s of the 
gorge, the winding road through the whole extent, the famed 


120 


northern pleasure travel. 


“ Willey House,” the track of slides upon the bold slopes of either 
mountain, and the sparkling line of the mountain brooks leaping 
in gleaming and sinuous falls down the rugged walls; perhaps, 
over all, a roof of clouds lying before you in the soft sunlight, 

“ Through which the summits tower 
Like to palaces of spar 
Built on a sea of pearl.” . 

The stillness of the great height and the grand sublimity of the 
landscape can but impress the beholder with admiration and awe. 
It seems possible to throw a stone upon the roof of the Willey 
House, so deceptive is the distance. From this point you look 
also upon the “ Flume and Silver Cascades,” and down the grand 
line of marshaled summits which enclose this wild pass, in the 
direction of North Conway. 

THE FLUME, 

a brook pouring through the worn chasm or rent in the solid rock 
on the side of Mount Webster, is noted as one of the beauties of 
the Notch, leaping through the curious zigzag channel of stone 
in noisy and picturesque disturbance on its way to join the waters 
of the fair Saco. 

THE SILVER CASCADE, 

above the Flume, and a sort of continuation of the same, slides 
down the mountain side for a mile, in windings, leapings and 
turnings innumerable; now in a broad sheet of whitened foam, 
again di vided in several streams, narrowing to a swift current 
through the worn and narrow channel. The view from the rude 
bridge, or from a point at the base of the fall, is of unrivalled in¬ 
terest and beauty, and from all points this mountain cascade is 
one of the attractions by no means to be passed by. You will 
linger by its whitened torrent with increasing admiration. 
Parties from the Crawford House can visit these falls at a very 
trivial expense. 



The Silver Cascade. 


( 

































































122 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


FALLS ON AVALANCHE BROOK. 

These falls are about six miles from the Crawford Hou se, on 
Mount Willey, upon a stream which flows down the slope of the 
mountain, near the track of the memorable land slide, an d joins 
the Saco below the Willey House. Following this broo k, now 
known as Ripley’s or Avalanche brook, nearly two mile s up the 
mountain, a grand cascade bursts upon the view, falling between 
granite walls of picturesque forms and wonderful shapin g. The 
commencement of these falls is a succession of rocky step s some 
fifty feet wide, continuing in a widening incline, broken into 
sweeping curves, through the solid rock into the reservoir at the 
foot. These falls are now christened the “ Sylvan Glade Cata¬ 
ract.” A mile further up the brook is a lesser series of falls 
called the “Sparkling Cascade,” worthy of a visit. 

This tour of the Notch, including the ascent of Mount Willard, 
should by no means be omitted in your mountain trip; the lavish- 
display of wildness and bold scenes and outlines calls to mind the 
lines of the Yankee rhymester — 

“ Dame Nature once, while coating well 
This fiery mass o’er which we dwell 
Had surplus left of ends and outs, 

These masses vast in ruin thrown 
By streamlet worn and moss o’ergrown, 

In winrowed heaps lie hereabouts.” 


CHAPTER VII. 


FROM MT. WASHINGTON, OR THE CRAWFORD HOUSE, 
TO NORTH CONWAY, OR THE GLEN HOUSE. 


Leaving the level plateau at the Crawford House, and enter¬ 
ing at the “ Gates of the Notch* you pass by gradual descent 
and rough and winding roadway, over bridges which span the 
rocky channels of mountain torrents, with the curious rock 
figures on either hand upon the ragged walls, and the bold out¬ 
lines of the grand pass to the front and rear. 

Passing the famed Willey House, the tragic story of which was 
briefly told in the preceding chapter, and the graves of the un¬ 
fortunate inmates who perished here on that fearful night, and 
continuing down the Notch, from the Willey House, you emerge 
from its gloom and grandeur and pass through enclosing forests 
in a southeasterly direction, the towering masses of the Giants 
Stairs (3,500 feet), Mount Resolution and Mount Crawford (3,400 
and 3,200 feet respective elevations) loom up to the left; the Saco, 
swelled by many mountain streams and greatly increased in 
volume since you listened to its noisy but invisible flow among 
the rocks at the Notch entrance, flows by the roadway. 

The old Mount Crawford House is next reached, once an 
important rendezvous for tourists, hunters and anglers, now kept 
as a boarding house. Mount Washington is sometimes ascended 
from this point by a route not of late much patronized, but offer¬ 
ing great attractions to the genuine lover of nature. This spot is 
of interest as being the former residence of old Abel Crawford, 
and is six miles distant from the Willey House. The amount of 




124 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRATEL. 


teaming past this place through the Notch in the early days, be¬ 
fore the day of railroads, was immense; an old resident tells of 
counting for a single day the teams passing from above and below 
at this point, reaching the number of three hundred, only two or 
three of which were single teams. 

About a half mile further on is Nancy’s Brook, from itsi asso¬ 
ciations, a place of sad interest. It was here in 1778 that an 
unfortunate girl, deserted by her lover, perished from exposure, 
in the vain attempt to overtake the recreant deserter by a foot 
journey through this, then, almost impassable route. A stone, 
known as “Nancy’s Rock,” is pointed out as a mark of the 
tragedy. Further on is a great bend in the road and river around 
Hart’s Ledge where Sawyer’s river is crossed. 

hart’s location 

is the present terminus of the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad, 
now building through the notch, and stages from the Fabyan 
House and Mount Washington Railway connect here with trains 
to and from Portland and the east. 

From this point to Bartlett the valley of the Saco is closely fol¬ 
lowed, in an easterly direction, and 

sawyer’s rock, 

at Upper Bartlett is passed. One Nash, the discoverer of the 
pass known as the Notch, was associated with Sawyer in the first 
transportation of a horse through the rough gorge—then a work 
of difficulty. When the last obstruction was overcome, their 
emptied rum bottle was dashed against this high rock, and Saw¬ 
yer’s Rock has been the name it has since borne. Sawyer’s River 
is the small stream here crossed. The building of the road 
through to the Notch was an undertaking of great importance, in 
the days when it was attempted, with the limited means for carry¬ 
ing out the project. 

From this point the way is still along the valley of the Saco 
and passes the neat little “ Chapel of the Hills ” upon the right, a 
tasty building erected by summer residents. The three peaks of 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAYEL. 


125 


Mount Carrigan (4,800 feet, highest elevation), a bold mass of 
peaks little known in descriptive works, being outside of all usual 
routes of travel, loom up to the right and rear. Stanton Moun¬ 
tain and the White Ledge are prominent to the left, and 

BARTLETT 

is reached—a scattered settlement lying along the va" y of the 
Saco. The Bartlett House is the half way or halting siution on 
the route from the Crawford to the Glen House, distant fifteen 
miles from the former, and twenty miles from the latter. 

From this village the tourist may pass directly on to North 
Conway, with charming views of the famed Conway Intervales 
and the grand and massive pyramidal mass of Mount Pequaket 
or Kiarsarge before you, crossing the east branch of the Saco 
near the Intervale House. Of this beautiful village—the key to 
the mountain region when approached from the east—see chapter 
on “ North Conway and Surroundings.” 

TO THE GLEN. 

A large number will diverge at Bartlett and continue the 
regular route to the Glen House, along the valley of the Ellis 
River, through Pinkham Notch. 

GOODRICH FALLS, 

upon the Ellis River, will be the first feature of prominence to 
attract your attention. This is the heaviest fall in the mountains 
in perpendicular descent. From the old bridge in front of the 
fall a good view may be obtained, also from the shore below, and 
from the rocks on the right bank. 

Continuing northward you will enjoy grand surprises as the 
massive ridges of the White Mountain range burst occasionally 
into view. The town of 

JACKSON, 

a mile beyond the falls, is noted for the value and variety of the 
minerals there found. 


126 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


Iron Mountain is nearly 3,000 feet high, and with Thorn Moun¬ 
tain is rich in veins of iron ore. Tin (the first found in the 
United States,) and copper ores are also found, with other valu¬ 
able minerals. On the way from Goodrich Falls, Jackson Falls 
and the Jackson Falls House are passed before reaching the rural 

JACKSON CITY, 

a city only in name; and sweeping around the base of Eagle 
Mountain and climbing through thick forests continue on through 
the desolation of 

PINKHAM NOTCH, 

or Pinkham Pass, which takes its name from the family of early 
settlers of that name who, in April 1790, tenanted a log house, 
previously erected, which they found buried in the deep snows of 
that inclement season. The ingenuity of one of the boys in har¬ 
nessing the pig (their only live stock), to the hand-sled, containing 
the entire outfit of the family, is narrated by Willey in his “ Inci¬ 
dents of White Mountain Historyhe also relates the incidents 
of the fearful tornado of 1821, which swept the town. 

Passing the ways leading from the road to Glen Ellis Falls and 
the Crystal Cascade, which we shall visit from the Glen House, 
by the contiguous sources of the Ellis and Peabody Rivers, and 
along the increasing and musical line of the latter stream, Mount 
Carter being occasionally seen to the right, you ride through 
forests, charmingly festooned with mosses, cross the bridge on the 
Peabody River, pass the carriage road to Mount Washington to 
the left, and ascend to the hospitable shelter and enjoyment of 
the startling views so peculiar to the location of the 

Glen House, 

W. & C. R. Milliken, proprietors. This house is situated 
within the vast hollow, bounded by a rim of mountain peaks, and 
more than 1,600 feet above sea level. Mount Washington is in 
view from its grounds. Adams, Jefferson, Clay and Madison 
circle away to the northeast in impressive grandeur, seamed with 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


127 


the scars of terrific slides and desolating torrents. Mount Adams 
appears from this point the highest, but less burly and majestic 
than Washington. 



- Mount Carter is in the rear of the Glen Ho use, and from its 
side the tourist who takes the trouble to climb through the forests 
to a favorite point of view, will gain an unobstructed outlook 
upon the five great peaks of the mountain range from Washington 
northward—Clay, Jefferson, Adams and Madison. The traveler 






































































































128 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


who makes his stay at this house for a time, will be at no loss 
for lack of the wonderful and the beautiful to excite and charm 
away the hours. The house itself is one of the largest and most 
commodious in the mountains, in appearance like two buildings* 
connected by a central one, giving a long front of piazza, ard 
overlooking the Peabody River and the great mountain range. 
Stage lines connect with the Eastern Railway trains at North 
Conway and with Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad at North 
Conway and Bartlett, also stage line through Bartlett to Crawford 
House. Autumnal catarrh and hay fever are unknown troubles 
with the patrons of this house. 

The house was opened June 12th for visitors, and an excellent 
band of music is in attendance for promenading and dancing in 
its spacious halls in the pleasure season. 

Visitors to the Notch may ascend to the summit by the carriage 
road, and descend by the Mountain Railway to the Fab yan or 
White Mountain House, and from thence to the Crawford House 
at the Notch. But there are numerous objects of interest in and 
around the Glen which will be visited before making the a scent. 

PEABODY RIVER 

runs in front of the hotel, and distant about a mile. On the same 
are those curious proofs of the effects of continued action o f run¬ 
ning water upon solid rock, known as the “ Garnet Pools,” where 
the solid granite bed is worn for some distance into curiou s and 
peculiar forms, which can but interest you. 

On the road to Conway, over which you have come from Bart¬ 
lett, a more leisurely visit will enable you to see those curio sities 
in nature which so greatly add to the attractions at this poin t. 

THE EMERALD POOL, 

near the roadway, is a charming reservoir of water fro m the 
river, in delightful quiet, and should not be omitted in the sights 
of the region. About two miles from the hotel are 

Thompson’s falls, 

on a brook of no great rise, leading into the Peabody Riv er, ex¬ 
tending ior nearly three-fourths of a mile in a succession of 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


129 


lovely, broken falls, of easy descent, without presenting any 
startling features, but with much of picturesque beauty, and the 
climb along the wild stream brings you to points from which you 
gain glorious mountain views. 

CRYSTAL CASCADE. 

These cascades are reached by a path diverging from the road 
about three and one-half miles south of the hotel, and leading up 
the side of the great mountain; following this for half a mile 
you reach the top of a jutting spur overhanging a water-chiseled 
chasm, through which a bright stream gurgles with hoarse mur¬ 
muring, while from far up on the mountain side the crystal cas¬ 
cade come gliding down; light, feathery and white as the snow, 
comes the pure waters of the stream, descending from the side of 
Mount Washington, under the walls of Tuckerman’s Ravine—a 
long, sheer descent of successive leaps and turns. 

Tuckerman’s Ravine may be reached by following this stream 
from the Cascade by a path known as Thompson’s path, which 
leaves the carriage road some two miles from the base of Mount 
Washington, but is perhaps oftener explored by descending into 
it from the summit. This long, deep ravine, in the southern 
slope of the mountain, is filled to great depth by the accumu¬ 
lated snows of winter; the summer heats usually dispel the im¬ 
mense snow bank during the month of August. In the process 
of melting, the gradual wear of the streams sometimes forms a 
grand arch of snow, of magnificent proportions, and worn by 
melting processes into beautiful forms and outlines. The “Snow 
Arch ” formed by the waters from “ a thousand streams ” running 
under and melting the snow is grand in the extreme, in the early 
part of August. This grand ice arch extends for two or three 
hundred feet, supported by ice pillars standing on boulders which 
prevent the melting of the column of ice resting upon them; but 
the long summer eventually tells upon the frigid mass and the ice- 
palace vanishes in humid mists. 

GLEN ELLIS FALLS 

are about four miles from the Glen House—reached by taking a 
footpath leading from the main road through a pine thicket, 
9 


130 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


which speedily brings you to the brink of a rocky precipice, 
above a narrow gorge overhung with dark masses of foliage. 
Descending this cliff by the irregular natural steps and rude arti¬ 
ficial helps, you reach the bottom of a dark chasm and stand 
upon the brink of a foaming caldron of emerald water, and 
glancing upwards, you can see the stream leaping seventy feet at 
a single bound from the worn channel of the rock. The scenery 
around this water fall combines all the elements of beauty, wild¬ 
ness and startling contrast, which the most romantic could expect 
or desire. 

FROM THE GLEN HOUSE. 

This is still a favorite way of scaling the side of the central 
summit of the mountains. The road winds along the mountain 
side a distance of eight miles from the hotel to the Mount Wash¬ 
ington House, and is both safe and easy of ascent. This road was 
finished in 1861, after six years of labor, and has an average grade 
of little less than one foot in eight, from which it varies in no great 
degree. The time occupied in making the ascent is about three 
hours. The lower half of the journey is by a winding way 
through forests, emerging at the “ Ledge ” upon the bare wall of 
the mountain, and winding along the brink of the Great Gulf, 
across which you look upon the entire slopes of Mounts Jefferson, 
Adams and Madison; and, continuing on, it overlooks the Glen 
and the valley through Pinkham Pass, and up the valley of the 
Peabody River toward Gorham. 

The views widen and increase in scope and grandeur as you 
approach the summit, which seems to develop itself anew as you 
continue to rise over successive ridges. There is neither danger 
nor inconvenience in this way of ascent. Baggage wagons ac¬ 
company the passenger carriages, enabling parties to descend on 
the other side by railway to the Fabyan, White Mountain, Twin 
Mountain or Crawford House, as their inclination may lead. 

The view from the summit has been previously described, as 
have also the accommodations for a night among the clouds, or a 
longer stay if you are enamored with the novel experience of life 
at an elevation of 6,300 feet above sea level. 

Before the building of the carriage road the ascent was tire¬ 
some and attended with danger. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


131 


Near the summit, on the road, is the Lizzie Bourne monument, 
previously noticed. It is a pyramid of rough stones surmounted 
by a slab. Miss Bourne perished from exposure on this spot in 
1855. In company with two male relatives she attempted the 
ascent of the mountain without a guide, and, bewildered and 
chilled, perished from exposure in the immediate vicinity of the 
summit houses. 

We have again brought you to the summit and again leave you 
to choice of ways, no longer wanting, by which to descend. 
While at the Glen House many will wish to take the pleasant trip 
to Gorham, on the Grand Trunk Kailway, in the Androscoggin 
valley, distant from the Glen some eight miles. Stages from the 
Glen House connect with all trains over the Grand Trunk Rail¬ 
way at this point. Going northward from Gorham, those wishing 
to make the circuit of the mountains, or to visit Franconia and 
the western side, on their return may take the Boston, Concord 
& Montreal trains at Northumberland and return southward via 
Lancaster, Littleton, Plymouth andjLake Winnipesaukee. 






















































































































































































































































































































































CHAPTER VIII 


NORTH CONWAY AND SURROUNDINGS. 


This charming village is reached by the popular boat, stage and 
rail route from Wiers across fair Lake Winnipesaukee to Centre 
Harbor , thence by the picturesque stage route toWest Ossipee on 
the Great Falls & Conway Railroad and thence to destination by 
rail; giving great variety of scenery and novelty of experience. 

HOTELS. 

Of these there is no lack, and the visitor may suit his taste as 
to locality and style of entertainment. In the immediate vicinity 
of the new Eastern Railroad station is the new, large and com¬ 
modious first-class hotel, the Kiarsarge House. 


It will accommodate three hundred guests, and is built and 
furnished on a scale of liberality which is sustained in the details 



The Intervale House. 





























134 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 

of management. The building is lighted with gas, and the near¬ 
ness to the station is a convenience to business men. Fast line of 
six-horse Concord Coaches run twice each day to the'Grlen House. 

The Intervale House, kept by Mudgett & Son, lo¬ 
cated under the slope of Mount Pequaket, or [Kiarsarge, is 
within a beautiful enclosure of hills and surrounded by attractive 
points, easily reached by short walks from the Hotel. The 
buildings are comparatively new, and it will be found to be a 
centre of attractions for those who tarry at this point. The 
McMillan House is to the southward, in the direction of 
Artists’s Falls, the North Conway House, by N. R. Mason, 
and the Washington House, receive extensive patronage in 
the summer months. 

The Mason House is a new hotel, complete in its furnishing, 
kept by the senior Mason, formerly of the Sunset Pavilion, so 
long and favorably known to the traveling public. 



The Randall House 


is a commodious and well furnished hotel, kept by J. T. Ran¬ 
dall, Esq., well known to frequenters of this village for several 
years. Carriages connect with the xailroad trains from all the 
hotels. 



































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


135 


The Eastman House, 

kept by F. J. Lucas, is a house where visitors will find sub¬ 
stantial comfort. 

This romantic village is the centre of resort in the Saco valley, 
and the key to the mountain region from the southeast. The 
village lies upon a plain of some four or five miles long by three 
wide, overlooking the intervales of the Saco, which is here a 
stream of several rods in width, fordable in many places and 
flowing over a bed of the purest stones and pebbles, worn and 
washed to smoothness and whiteness by the pure waters. The 
stream is liable to rapid rising at times, to the great danger of 
those having property upon its banks. At the time of the Willey 
disaster it rose twenty-four feet in a single night. 

The smiling intervales or meadows are noted for their beauty, 
and the distant view of the giant peaks of the White Mountains 
to the northward, looking up the Saco valley, is considered one 
of the finest in the State, the distance softening all harsh and 
rugged outlines into beautiful curves and combinations. 

To the northeast of the village 

pequaket, 

or Kiarsarge Mountain, rises, a lone, swelling summit, sym¬ 
metrical in outline, surmounted by the hotel clamped to the 
rocks of the very summit. The elevation is 3,367 feet, 
and it stands like an immovable sentinel upon the outpost 
of the grim host of hills. The ascent can be made with 
horses, or by pedestrians, without difficulty, to the very 
summit. From this highest southern elevation there is a 
magnificent view of the whole army of hills to the north and 
west, including the whole White Mountain range, and of the 
grand central dome, Mount Washington, and Mount Lafayette 
of the Franconia group. The fair valley of the Saco can be 
followed from near its source* in the mountain fastness far on its 
course to the sea. To the east lie the reaches of level country in 
Maine and the waters of fair Sebago and the lesser lakes. 

There is a range of rugged hills to the east called “ Rattlesnake 
Ridge,” and “ Mote Mountain ” to the southwest, with the sharp 


r 


136 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


pyramids of old Cliucorua in the same direction, but in the far 
distance. 

Starr King says “ we have seen no other region of New Eng¬ 
land so swathed in dreamy charm,that at times “ the spiritual 
heights, from which nature issues, unseal their opulence and send 
the freshet of bloom—times when the finer ‘ light in light ’ will 
break its bounds, and the whole valley will turn into a goblet 
brimming with beauty too liberal to be contained by the moun¬ 
tain walls that are tinted with its weird waves.” 

THE LEDGES, 

upon the face of Mote Mountain, rise almost perpendicularly in a 
rocky face of several miles extent, reaching at some points a 
height of eight hundred feet. In the ride to these ledges, from 
the village, by the road, through the fields and plains, the spark¬ 
ling waters of the Saco are twice forded. 

ECHO LAKE 

is a gem among the mountain lakes, unruffled by the slightest 
breeze, sleeping beneath the rocky walls and reflecting the bold 
outline of overhanging cliffs. The blast of a horn and the sound 
of the voice are clearly and sharply echoed from the cliffs, some¬ 
times with a slight re-echo, but wanting the resounding repetition 
of the like named wonder at Franconia. 

THE CATHEDRAL. 

In the wall of the great ledges, next visited, is a cave of forty 
feet in depth by some sixty feet in height; you stand within 
it as within a wide, rough, granite alcove in the face of the 
wall, the forest trees standing in audience before you and shading 
the light which falls within. Along the seamed walls the work 
of the silent forces of the frost are Seen at the base; great flakes 
and blocks pried off the granite face of the walls by freezing 
wedges of ice, lie in confusion, and others seem hanging only by 
the slightest hold, which the next frost wedge will loosen and 
hurl below. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


137 


devil’s den. 

In the debris at the foot of the ledge, not far from the Cathedral, 
formed by a huge scale of granite, sliding over a mass of loose 
blocks, is the “Devil’s Den,” an enclosed space in the fallen 
mass entered by creeping through a tortuous passage. By light¬ 
ing a fire in this cave you can take a lunch, with no fear of dis¬ 
turbance from his Satanic majesty, and to the great delight of the 
juveniles. 

Thompson’s Falls must not be forgotten in the visit, and 
DIANA’S BATHS 

are another wonder which should be seen by all. Another way, 
through pastures and forests, and you reach a small mill, above 
which the stream from the forest flows over a bed of the whitest 
granite, flecked with crystals. Ordinarily the flow of water is not 
large, but the solid granite bed is worn in every conceivable 
form, dropping in steps at irregular intervals, and filled with 
wells worn in the solid surface by whirling eddies and revolving 
boulders, seamed by the swift and continual flow of ceaseless cur¬ 
rents into curious and fantastic grooves. Unless swollen by 
unusual rains you need not look for startling or overwhelming 
features; but for curious and beautiful combinations it is worthy 
of a visit, and will impress itself indelibly on the memory. 

artist’s falls. 

These charming falls are to the south of the village, in a 
picturesque and shaded place, and are widely known in prints 
and photographic representations. All will wish to look upon 
the beautiful fall among the wild combination of rocks and 
shading trees; but here, as in nearly all the charms around North 
Conway, look rather for quiet loveliness than for the overpower¬ 
ing and forbidding aspects presented in the immediate vicinity of 
the mountains. 

DRIVES. 

Though you may remain for weeks at North Conway, you may 
have a new drive or walk of absorbing interest each day of your 
stay. Excursions to Chucorua Lake and Gould’s Pond, to Con¬ 
way Corner, to Fryeburg, once a very important village, built on 


138 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


a broad plain within a wide sweep of the Saco, are often made. 
Near by is Lovewell’s Pond, with thickly wooded shores, near 
which was fought that desperate battle with the Indians, so ter¬ 
rible in the slaughter of both the whites and savages—one of the 
most fierce and obstinate of the encounters with the Pequaket 
Indians. The commander, Captain Lovewell, and more than a 
quarter of the whole white force, fell at the first onset, but the 
fight continued for ten hours, when the savages retired. An ex¬ 
cursion to Jackson and the Cascades, on the branch of the Ellis 
River, should not be omitted. 

CHUCORUA. 

That “ rocky mass of bare granite spires and shafts,” the sharp¬ 
est pinnacle of the entire region, excepting Mount Adams, reaches 
an elevation of 3,360 feet. The scaling of its upright ledges is 
esteemed a test of courage and strength. It may be reached from 
Conway. 

The Bearcamp River House, 

at West Ossipee, a favorite point of departure under its former 
management, will be sustained and improved by the present pro¬ 
prietors. A fine view of the mountain and the surrounding coun¬ 
try is had from this point, and teams are furnished for excursion¬ 
ists, sportsmen and others. J. H. Plummer, Esq., is the present 
proprietor. It is a cosy and delightful loitering place. 

CONWAY, N. H. 

This quiet valley town, on the banks of the Saco, though for¬ 
gotten and overshadowed by the places of more general resort, 
has great charms for those who have learned to enjoy its quiet 
and the beauty of the surrounding landscape. 

The Conway House, 

L. H. Eastman, proprietor, one of the largest and best hotels of 
this region, provides for guests all substantial comforts. The livery 
stable is one of the best connected with country hotels. Pat¬ 
rons are taken to all points of interest in the mountain region, and 
the many drives are unsurpassed in their attractions. Anglers find 
this a favorite place at which to spend a few days or weeks. The 
Pequaket House is a smaller but commodious and well kept hotel. 


CHAPTER IX 


AROUND GORHAM. 


The Androscoggin valley and the hills that enclose it, with the 
noble outlook from neighboring elevations, make a visit there a 
pleasure to live in memory, and Gorham is the point where the 
tourist naturally tarries. 



The Gorham House 


is a fine Hotel, J. A. Callahan, proprietor, where all will find 
accommodation. 




















140 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


Mount Carter, Mount Moiiah, and the lesser and central 
* ( Imp,” are three prominent features in the landscape to the 
south; the first, 5,000 feet in height, the second, 4,700 feet, and 
the three forming the eastern slope of the Glen. The outline of 
Mount Moriah is a series of curves and flowing lines, softened by 
the luxuriant forests which clothe its waving slopes. Mount 
Carter is rugged, scarred and seamed, in the long slope which it 
presents to view at this point. 

RANDOLPH HILL, 

five miles from the village, is an elevation from which the finest 
imaginable view of the surrounding mountains may be had, and 
is a favorable point from which to study the rare combinations of 
the wild and rugged landscape. 

THE PILOT HILLS, 

to the northwest, are grand in outline, and in a deep cleft of the 
range the ice and snow, among the immense granite blocks in the 
cold shadows of the ravine, defy the extreme heat of the warmest 
summer. The Androscoggin Hills lie along to the eastward. 
The noble outline of Mount Hayes to the northeast being the 
most prominent peak. 

DRIVES. 

A stay of a few days at this point enables the tourist to enjoy 
the fine drives in this vicinity. The drive to the Lead Mine 
Bridge, four miles from the village, near the abandoned lead mine, 
and noted as a favorable site from which to view the valley of the 
Androscoggin, with its chain of green isles and background of 
noble mountains, and the great White Mountains, robbed by the 
distance of their forbidding aspects, but standing out in noble 
outline in the vast picture here presented. There is also the 
drive to Shelburne, six miles below, and the view from Bald Cap 
Mountain; to Berlin Falls, six miles above the village—a series 
of rapids, where, for nearly a mile, the Androscoggin sweeps in a 
long, rapid descent, much admired for its wild beauty and fascinat¬ 
ing power. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


141 


ASCENT OF MOUNTAIN SUMMITS. 

The climbing of Mount Surprise (1,200 feet elevation) by bridle¬ 
path requires no undue exertion, and the view commands an unob¬ 
structed sight of the great mountain range, and looks directly 
upon the wildest and most rugged scenery of the hills and the 
Androscoggin valley. No summit so easily reached commands 
so wide and charming a view as this. Mount Hayes (so named 
in honor of a former landlady of the Alpine House,) may also be 
ascended by bridlepath, affording a view in which Mount Wash¬ 
ington stands out in all its majesty and grandeur, and the winding 
valley of the Androscoggin, with its clean banks, many islands 
and noble enclosing hills, is seen for a score of miles. 

Mount Moriah may be now ascended by footpath. From this 
summit of 4,700 feet elevation, reached by a path through thick 
forests and over bare ledges of the mountain side, the outlook is 
upon the sea of summits in a circle broken only upon the south¬ 
west by the open country of Maine. 

FROM GORHAM TO THE NOTCH. 

The route to the Notch from Gorham by the Cherry Mountain 
road, a distance of thirty-two miles, affords a series of glorious 
views during the entire journey, enabling the traveler to avail 
himself of the extensive prospect from Randolph Hill, before 
mentioned, and a changing succession of panoramic pictures of 
the great range seen from this northern line of travel; especially 
is the view from the road in Jefferson one to be forever remem¬ 
bered, sweeping, as it does, a wide line of summits standing in a 
vast arc of circling majesty. At the point where the Waumbek 
House is located, at the base of Starr King Mountain (3,800 feet 
elevation) the finest view is had. At this house many halt for 
dinner, and for the enjoyment of the view from its piazzas. A 
path leads up the mountain from this house, and a prolonged stay 
cannot fail to be a pleasant one. In the valley fronting the hotel 
is the peculiar mound, sometimes called the “ Sleeping Giant,” 
from a seeming resemblance to a giant human form lying upon 
his back. To the southwest, in clear weather, Mount Washing- 


142 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


ton and the attendant peaks appear to be in near proximity. The 
Franconia range is to the west, and the Pilot Mountains to the 
north. This house is distant seventeen miles from the Notch, 
thirteen miles from the Fabyan Place, and twenty-eight miles 
from the Profile. The route from this point to the Profile House 
is through the growing and enterprising town of Whitefield, and 
over the hills of Bethlehem. The road to the Crawford 
House or the Fabyan House is along the valley towards the 
source of Israel’s River, and the valley of the Ammonoosuc, pass¬ 
ing through the town of Carroll and along the base of Cherry 
Mountain (3,219 feet elevation), beautifully wooded to the summit, 
with the peak of “Owl’s Head” at its northern extremity. 


CHAPTER X, 


HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE. 


In sober matter-of-fact New England, the wild region of the 
mountains is peculiarly bare of that historical interest and legen¬ 
dary lore which has given to every crag and ravine of Scotland 
and Switzerland a name and fame in romance and story; the 
names, even of the grandest peaks and gorges, excepting the 
few musical ones of Indian origin, lack the merest suggestion of 
romantic beauty. 

One Darby Field appears to have been the first white man who 
looked from the highest summit upon the wild and rugged country 
below. His story, like that of most early discoverers, was garn¬ 
ished with accounts of shining stones and riches in prospect. 
Vines and Gorges, magistrates of Sir Fernando Gorges, went 
thither in the fall of the same year (1642), ascending the Saco in 
canoes; they appear to have climbed one of the highest summits 
and made report not remarkable for accuracy. An early chron¬ 
icler has described the country to the north of the principal sum¬ 
mit as “ daunting terrible, being full of rocky hills and clothed 
with infinite thick woods,” and as a proof of his theory that the 
mountains were hollow, cites the “resounding of the rain” upon 
the rocky summits. The Great White Mountain Notch was dis¬ 
covered in 1791, by two hunters—Nash and Sawyer. In 1816, a 
party of scientific gentlemen made extensive botanical collec¬ 
tions, and determined altitudes. In 1820, the whole range was 
explored by a party from Lancaster, altitudes of the highest sum¬ 
mits were established, and the mountains received the names by 
which they have since been known. 




144 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


With the early settlement of this rugged and forbidding region 
the name of the Crawfords is inseparably connected, as opening 
the first ways of ascent to the mountain summits and preserving 
a thorough knowledge of the hills. The tragic story of the Willey 
family is told in preceding pages, and is, perhaps, so familiar as 
to need no repetition. The desolate experiences and hardships 
of the isolated pioneers whose names even are forgotten, who first 
established their rude homes in this rugged and forbidding land, 
die out with the grey heads of the venerable actors, but perse¬ 
verance so marked and sufferings so unselfish should have been 
preserved by the genius of some American Scott, or live in the 
songs of a Whittier, through the passing years. 

In climbing the highest summits, the tourist passes first through 
the dense woods around their bases, lessening in height and 
thinning to the hardier varieties as the path enters the region of 
dwarfed shrubs and clinging mosses, and, finally, emerges upon 
the bare and desolate rocks of the higher peaks bearing no mark 
of the action of the waves or drift, clothed only with lichens, 
mosses, and such plants as are peculiar to Polar regions. Many 
of the lesser mountains are beautifully wooded over their entire 
summits. 

The mountains, in winter, present to the appreciative observer 
the rarest beauty. Until within the last few years few travelers 
have had the hardihood to inspect its scenery when clothed in the 
snowy mantle which veils the summits for so many months. For 
the last four winters parties have resided through the entire sea¬ 
son upon the summit of Mount Washington, in the interest ot 
science, and have made valuable observations regarding the 
strength of the winds, the temperature and phenomena of these 
high altitudes, and witnessed the sublime and novel scenes pre¬ 
sented from this elevation through the inclement months. 

Traces of the Indians once inhabiting the mountain region are 
frequently found near the rivers and the ponds—about Conway, 
Fryeburg and Ossipee their implements, mounds and encamp¬ 
ments are seen, and their musical tongue is preserved in the names 
of Chucorua, the Pemigewasset, Ammonoosuc, Winnipesaukee, 
Androscoggin and other streams. They had the highest rever¬ 
ence for “The Mountains of the Snowy Forehead,” by some 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 145 

called Waurribek Methna , “ Mountains of the White Rock.” 
Among them, as with nearly all people, there was a legend of a 
deluge ; one mighty and spotless chief and his squaw being taken 
by a whirlwind to the crowning summit, while all others perished. 
It was commonly believed among them that no intruders on these 
peerless summits ever returned alive, and that the mighty ruler of 
the Peunacooks, while coming with messages from the Great Spirit, 
was borne to the happy hunting grounds in a chariot of flame. 

Of the family of Crawfords, so identified with White Moun¬ 
tain history, Abel Crawford was the pioneer, making a home on 
the “ Giant’s Grave,” now levelled in the grounds of the Fabyan 
House. The name is preserved in the naming of many localities, 
and a majestic mountain peak, while the descendants are a hardy 
and noble race. One of the ladies who courageously climbed to 
the summit of Mount Washington during the past winter was a 
descendant of this family. 

Bare of historic interest and legendary charm, and wanting in 
geological features of great peculiarity, these imperial hills by the 
simple majesty of their outlines and the bold combination of their 
masses, attract, each year, an army of tourists, surpassed only by 
the charms of Niagara. 


10 


CHAPTER XI. 


NORTHWARD TO THE CANADAS. MONTREAL. 


Leaving Northumberland, by either day or night trains (parlor 
cars), over the Grand Trunk Railway, North Stratford station is 
the point of departure for Colebrook and Dixville Notch (regular 
stage lines connecting), and Island Pomd is the point where 
through express trains stop for refreshments. 



The Island Pond House 


is connected with the depot by covered way and is well and 
favorably known as a dining station or place for longer stay; 
Bartlett & Stone are the proprietors. 






NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


147 


Sherbrooke, the station where the Passumpsic route unites 
with the Grand Trunk, is a thriving and important Canadian 
town, having manufacturing interests of importance. 



The Sherbrooke House, 


W. Chamberlain, proprietor, is an old and well-known first- 
class hotel, thoroughly refurnished and refitted, where you 
can be well cared for; and at the Continental, a new com¬ 
modious and well managed hotel, P. A. C amir and, Esq., pro¬ 
prietor, guests will be faithfully cared for. From Sherbrooke the 
route is northward to 


RICHMOND, 

(Junction with the Quebec Division) thence westward through 
Durham, Acton, Upton, Brittania Mills, St. Hyacinthe, Soirante, 
Beloeil and St. Lambert, through the Victoria Bridge, to the 
great northern city of 

MONTREAL. 

Reaching this Canadian metropolis, by either of the ways of 
approach described under the heads of routes, your first question 
will, no doubt, be for a place at which to tarry during your stay. 












148 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


At the 

Montreal House, 

Custom House Square, Decker & Co., proprietors, recently 
remodeled and refitted throughout, you will find all the requisites 
for making your stay both comfortable and pleasant. Located in 
full view of the great Victoria Bridge, near the landing of the 
foreign steamers and river boats, and convenient to all points of 
interest. Decker & Co., the proprietors, have had long experi¬ 
ence in the keeping of first-class houses, and patrons will not be 
disappointed. Carriages furnished at the hotel for drives to all 
parts of the city and the surroundings. The rooms are not sur¬ 
passed by any hotel in the city, and no requisite of a first-class 
hotel will be found wanting. The large, airy rooms, healthful 
breeze from the river, supplemented by faithful attendance, and 
reasonable charges, will recommend the house to your renewed 
patronage should you once make it your home. Space forbids 
mention of many other first-class houses of entertainment. 

This commercial and financial metropolis of the Canadas is 
also the most populous of Canadian cities — some 140,000 souls. 
It is situated at the head of river navigation proper, five hundred 
and forty miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the Island of 
Montreal, which lies between the broad St. Lawrence and the 
rapid Ottawa — the two great rivers of the North. The island 
extends some thirty-two miles in length and ten in width, and is 
considered the garden of the Provinces. The surface is generally 
level, excepting the eminence of Mount Koyal in the background, 
rising 550 feet above river level, and from which the city takes 
its name, Montreal being a shortening or modification of Mount 
Royal . 

The settlement of the town was determined upon by the first 
explorer, Jaques Cartier, in 1535, the site being that of the old 
Indian village of “ Hochelaga,” but the permanent founding of 
the city did not take place till 1642, and in one hundred years of 
growth it gathered a population of only four thousand souls; since 
then the growth has been rapid. 

It was under French rule till 1760, when it passed into the 
hands of the English. In 1775 Ethan Allen made his mad attack 

























































































































































































































































































































































































150 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


upon the city with a handful of men, and was defeated and cap¬ 
tured ; but shortly after, in the same year, Montgomery entered 
the city in triumph. The water communication with the city is 
said to be the most extensive of any city in the world so far inland. 

Here, as at Quebec, are the lower and the upper town, though 
not so plainly separated by unmistakable natural elevations as in 
the more northern capital. The lower town is somewhat 
cramped and gloomy in the laying out of the narrow streets and 
styles of the buildings in the old French order, while the upper 
town has wide streets and squares, with large, imposing struc¬ 
tures, built mostly of the greyish limestone ot the region. 

The broad quays of solid limestone are unsurpassed by any on 
the continent, and, to accommodate the growing commerce of 
this thriving inland port, the docks and basins are continually 
being improved and enlarged. Vessels from all parts of the 
world lie at its wharves; ocean steamers of three thousand tons, 
and sailing vessels of twelve hundred tons can reach the city and 
be accommodated in the harbor. A wide terrace, faced with 
grey limestone, crowned on the parapet by a durable iron railing, 
divides the city from the river. 

VIEW OF THE CITY. 

Approached by the river, by steamer from Lachine, the sight 
presented to the stranger is one of rare interest and beauty; the 
glittering spires and great domes and towers combine in royal 
proportions; the enduring structures of cut stone stretch In a 
long line upon the river front. Mount Royal is in the back¬ 
ground, and you pass beneath that great triumph of modern 
enterprise and engineering, 

THE VICTORIA BRIDGE, 

which serves the important purpose of giving uninterrupted 
rail communication between the Eastern States and Canadas and 
the Great West. It is used only for railway transit and gives 
to the Grand Trunk Railway fall control of railway approaches 
from the East. This great work, sometimes classed as the eighth 



Victoria Bkidge. 













































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































152 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


artificial wonder of the world, was completed in 1860, under the 
superintendence of . Robert Stephenson and his associates, and is 
one and a quarter miles in length, or two miles including the ex¬ 
tensions. It is supported on twenty-four piers, the central span 
being three hundred and thirty feet, the remaining ones two 
hundred and forty-two feet, with massive abutments; the bridge 
tube is of iron, twenty-two feet high by sixteen wide, slightly 
lessening at the ends. It was erected at a cost of $6,300,000. 
The height of the centre span above ordinary river level is sixty 
feet. Three million cubic feet of masonry and ten thousand tons 
of iron enter into the construction of the gigantic work. There 
is an opening in the centre affording a magnificent river view. 
No railroad train is allowed to enter this bridge without a w r ritten 
permit from the proper officer, thus insuring exemption from 
collision or accident; the passage is somewhat cheerless, occupy¬ 
ing some six minutes, though seeming much longer to the pas¬ 
senger. By obtaining a permit, at the office of the Grand 
Trunk Railway, tourists can inspect a portion of the interior 
of the bridge. The river beneath the bridge has a swilt current 
and the piers are calculated to withstand immense pressure 
from descending masses of ice. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 

Of massive buildings, combining show of strength and perma¬ 
nence with architectural beauty, there is no lack in Montreal. On 
Great St. James street, the Post-office is a beautiful building of 
cut stone; adjoining, and of more elaborate architecture, is the 
Bank of British North America. On the same street is the build¬ 
ing constructed of sandstone, and perhaps the finest in the city, 
known as Molson’s Bank, and the fine building in the Italian 
style, with an elaborately decorated lecture room, known as the 
Mechanic’s Institute. 

On Notre Dame street, built in the Grecian, Ionic style, is the 
New Court House, of elegant proportions and material. The Old 
Government House is on the same street. 

The Nelson Monument, at the head of Jaques Cartier Square, 
is a column of grey limestone crowned with the figure of the 
hero of Trafalgar. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


153 


The Champ de Mars is the parade ground for the garrison 
regiments and volunteer soldiery. Three thousand troops may 
be reviewed upon it, and it is a favorite promenade for citizens. 
Here the tine bands of the regiments often discourse sweet music 
during the summer evenings. Facing this square is the Geolog¬ 
ical Museum with its extensive collection of specimens. 

Yiger Square, near the Champ de Mars, is beautifully laid out 
as a garden, with conservatory, fountains, etc. 

On St. Catherine Street is the English Cathedral, the most per¬ 
fect specimen of Gothic architecture in America, surrounded by 
a cluster of lofty spires. 

Bonsecours Market is a magnificent edifice, the dome of which 
attracts attention as you land from the boat. The upper stories 
contain the city offices, a magnificent hall or concert room which 
will seat 4,000 persons, and the rooms of the City Council most 
elegantly ornamented and arranged. The location is at the cor¬ 
ner of Water and St. Paul Streets. 

The McGill College, so called from Hon. James McGill, who 
liberally endowed the institution, has extensive buildings and 
museum. 

St. Patrick’s Hall was a fine building on Victoria Square, but 
was destroyed by fire in 1872. The dry goods and hardware trade 
centres are on St. Paul Street, which presents a fine line of ware¬ 
houses. But the great centre of interest for strangers is the 
French 

CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE DAME, 

reputed to be the largest church edifice in North America, hold¬ 
ing within its walls 10,000. The building is two hundred and 
sixty feet long by one hundred and forty feet broad, and the two 
massive towers, flanking the front upon the square, rise two hun¬ 
dred and twenty feet. There is a famous peal of bells in the left 
tower, one of which is the famous “Gros Bourdon,” weigh¬ 
ing fifteen tons, and having a deep bass intonation. The 
prospect from the right tower, which can be ascended by pay¬ 
ment of a slight fee, is wonderfully wide, looking out upon the 
broad waters, the islands and shipping of the St. Lawrence, the 
rapids of Lachine, the distant Vermont hills and the suburban 


154 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


villages. The. Seminary of St. Sulpice adjoins the Cathedral and 
is surrounded by spacious gardens and court yards. In near 
vicinity, around this fine square, are the noble buildings of the 
important Banking and Insurance Companies of the Dominion. 

drives. 

The Canadian carriage is kept with scrupulous neatness, the 
drivers are your willing and obliging servants, knowing every 
inch of the routes by which they convey you, and the prices, un¬ 
like American coaching fares, do not spoil the fairest prospects 
by threatening total ruin to your finances. A vehicle drawn by 
two horses may be had at a charge of one dollar for first hour, 
and seventy-five cents for -additional hours; for carriage, with 
one horse for one or two persons, fifty cents first hour, and forty 
cents for additional hours is about the usual charge; and, for trips 
to the suburbs, charges vary with the number of the party and 
distance. Carriages will be found at the railway station, and the 
tourist can proceed immediately on his ride through the city if 
pressed for time. 

The drive of nine miles around the mountain, visiting the 
Mount Royal Cemetery, two miles from the city, on the northern 
slope of Mount Royal, approached by a broad avenue, and of 
itself well worth a visit, is a trip which should by no means be 
omitted, affording as it does commanding and attractive views of 
the Canadian metropolis and the great river of the North, which 
no lover of the beautiful and the grand in landscape should fail 
to enjoy. 

The views obtained from the Water Works Reservoir, a mile 
from the city, cut in the solid rock, are extensive and interesting. 
A drive down the river bank to Lougue Point is in great favor 
with the people of the city, and will prove of interest to visitors. 

The drive which, perhaps, will prove of greatest interest, is 
that of nine miles to the village of Lachine. The Lachine road 
leads along the banks of the St. Lawrenoe, and during this drive, 
by selecting the proper time, the descent of the steamer through 
the Rapids may be witnessed. The Rapids below Lachine have 
a fall of forty-four and a half feet, and the descent of these by 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


155 


steamer is one of the sensations of your visit. Every morning 
(in summer) a train leaves the railroad station on Bona venture 
street, at 7 o’clock a.m., for Lachine, connecting with the small 
steamer at the railroad \yharf, for the trip down the Rapids. 
Caughnawaga, the Indian village opposite, is the point from 
which Baptiste, the renowned Indian pilot, comes out in his bark 
canoe to pilot the boats of the Canadian Navigation Company 
through the Rapids. These Rapids offer the greatest obstacle to 
navagation of any on the river, and that immense work, the 
Lachine Canal, eight and one-half miles in length, was con¬ 
structed to avoid this obstruction. Improvements about to be 
made will enable all descending steam craft to keep the river, 
leaving the canals exclusively to sailing vessels and ascending 
boats. 

The morning trip to Lachine, with the return by steamer 
through the Rapids, and beneath the largest and most noted 
bridge in the world, giving the favorite view of the city, and 
landing you again at the wharf by 9 o’clock a.m., will prove a 
wonderful appetizer and a lasting pleasure. 

MONTREAL TO QUEBEC, BY RAIL. 

Those who prefer the rail route to a night trip by boat can 
leave the station, Bona venture street, pass through the “ Victoria 
Bridge,” before described, through St. Lambert’s, Beloeil, St. 
Hillaire, St. Hyacintlie with its extensive nunneries and church 
buildings, Brittania Mills, Upton, and New Durham, to Richmond 
Junction, seventy-six miles from Montreal, where cars are taken 
over the Quebec division, ninety-five miles, to Quebec. Along 
this line the scenery will be somewhat bare of interest to a ma¬ 
jority of travelers, and, in a sleeping car, the traveler may perhaps 
with great propriety take his ease and gather strength for his tour 
of Quebec. The stations are Danville, Warwick, Arthabaska, 
(branch from this point to Three Rivers,) Stanfold, Somerset, 
Becancour, Lyster, Methot’s Mills, Black River, Craig’s Road, 
Chaudi£re Junction, and Point Levi, (the Quebec station). The 
country passed through on this line has a sameness of aspect, and 
the stations are not points of particular importance other than as 


156 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


freight and trade centres for the adjacent country. A railway 
along the north shore of the St. Lawrence is projected to unite 
the two great Canadian cities, but its early construction is not 
assured. You cross from Point Levi by ferry, encircled with 
points or objects of interest on either bank, on the island below 
and upon the surface of the broad harbor, and are landed beneath 
the frowning walls of the grand old city of the North, fully de¬ 
scribed in the following chapter. 


CHAPTER XII 


QUEBEC. 


THE WALLED CITY OF THE NORTH. 



City of Quebec. 








































































































































































































































































158 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


On your arrriyal in Quebec, your inquiry for a first-class hotel 
will be answered by your being directed to that long known and 
popular house, the 



St. Louis Hotel, 


on St. Louis street, Willis Russell, Esq., proprietor. This 
is a long established and favorite house, complete in all its 
arrangements, efficient and liberal in its management, affording 
to its guests all wished for accommodations. The location is 
central, near the delightful and fashionable promenades and ter¬ 
races of this grand old city. The management is the best, and 
substantial plenty and commendable neatness in every depart¬ 
ment are characteristics of the house. The accommodations are 
for five hundred guests, and, with the recent enlargements and 
improvements, the most exacting cannot fail of satisfaction. 
Carriages at reasonable rates for the tour of the city and sur¬ 
roundings may be had at the hotel, and valuable information 
regarding the attractions within and around the city. 

The Russell House, 

corner of Ann and Garden streets, is kept as an auxiliary of the 
St. Louis, and offers especial accommodations to commercial 
travelers, business men, and all others who may temporarily or 
permanently locate here. 




NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


159 


Quebec was the capital of French dominion in America — the 
western Gibraltar and key to the great St. Lawrence valley. 
When approached by rail the city is seen in the first promise of 
its unique beauty from Point Levi. From the ferry passage, or 
by the river approach from above or below, the view is no less 
beautiful and novel. The upper and lower towns are here no 
imaginary divisions, but separate and distinct, the former crown¬ 
ing the lofty promontory of Cape Diamond, with its line of massive 
fortifications, and containing the fine residences and public build¬ 
ings, is the quarter of fashion; the latter extends along the 
narrow strip of land beneath the cliffs and under the overhanging 
walls to the suburb of St. Roche. St. Peter street is the princi¬ 
pal street of this section, and along its line and branches and 
upon the wharves, the banks, insurance companies, offices of mer¬ 
chants and the smaller hotels are located. The city is one of the 
largest lumber ports on the continent, the great rafts of timber 
lying by acres along the river banks and in the coves. The city 
is supplied with water from Lake St. Charles, nine miles distant, 
above the falls of Lorette. 

GENERAL VIEW OF THE CITY. 

No city on the continent so impresses the tourist, by the start¬ 
ling peculiarities of the site and the novelty of its general aspect, 
as this “ ancient capital,” or stamps its impress so indelibly in eye 
and memory. It was founded by Samuel de Champlain, the 
French geographer, in 1608, on the site of the Indian village of 
“Stadicona,” at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. 
Charles rivers, three hundred and sixty miles from the mouth of 
the St. Lawrence, and one hundred and eighty miles below 
Montreal. It is said, with show of truth, that the line of many 
of the streets follows the old footpaths of the Indian village. 

The view from the ramparts and terraces of the upper town 
looks down upon a curious scene of activity upon the wide wooden 
quays and winding, narrow streets of the lower town, crowded 
with vehicles and the busy populace, dwarfed to liliputian pro¬ 
portions as viewed from the height, while you look into blackened 
throats of the chimneys and upon the moss-grown roofs of the 
time-browned buildings. 


160 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


A massive wall of hewn stone, of nearly three miles in length, 
and of varying, but everywhere forbidding height and thickness, 
with projecting bastions and frowning cannon, communicating 
with the outward world by live massive gates, encloses the better 
portion of the upper town. Prescott gate, by which you enter 
the walls from the landing, has been or is to be demolished, on 
account of impeding travel. This gate, and Palace and Hope 
gates, communicate with the lower town; St. Louis gate with 
the suburbs in the direction of the plains of Abraham; St. John’s 
gate with the suburbs of St. Eoche and Beauport, and is the gate 
through which you pass in the drive to Montmorenci. The 
principal street of the lower town is St. Peter street. In the 
upper town St. Louis street and St. John street communicate 
with the gates of same name, and are the main avenues of union 
with the suburbs. The St. Foy and St. Louis roads are the 
principal outside ways ot travel, and are lined with the residences 
of the gentry. Driving out through St. John’s gate over the St. 
Foy road, and returning by the St. Louis road, you pass a net- 
woik of country seats, each enclosing grounds of wide extent; 
noble old manor houses, surrounded with luxuriant forest trees; 
elegant mansions and spacious cottages, shaded avenues, wide 
views, and numerous points made historical by the remarkable 
and tragic events which have enwrapped with historic interest 
nearly every rood of soil in and about this wonderlul citv, where 
the rival nations of the earth contended for western supremacy, 
and the pioneers of civilization and heroes in warfare won death¬ 
less names for courage and daring. Mount Hermon Cemetery, 
beautifully laid out, enclosing thirty-two acres, is three miles out 
on the St. Louis road. 

The form of the city is that of a triangle, the base towards the 
Plains of Abraham, and the St. Lawrence and St. Charles upon 
either side. In and about it all seems distinctively quaint, 
curious and old, giving the impression that you have in some 
way been set back a century in the path of progress, and are 
looking upon scenes of long ago. The harbor is the noblest on 
inland waters. A fleet ot the largest vessels ever constructed 
can manoeuvre in its waters, and craft of every description, from 
the ocean steamship and monster merchantman to the shell-like 
canoe and tiny sail boat, are found upon its waters. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


161 


THE CITADEL 

will, perhaps, prove the point of greatest interest to many, from 
the historic associations connected therewith, and from the fact 
that, judged by the older systems of gunnery and defence, it was 
considered an impregnable fortress. It covers some forty acres 
of enclosed area, and is some three hundred and forty feet above 
the river level. A few years ago a loosened rock fell from this 
frowning wall into the street below, causing the loss of five lives 
and the destruction of dwellings. The zigzag passage through 
which you enter the fortress, between high and massive granite 
walls, is swept at every turn by formidable batteries of heavy 
guns. Within are the slightly rising parade ground, the bomb¬ 
proof quarters, storehouses and hospital buildings, the numerous 
magazines, implements, stores, guns of every calibre, supplies 
and ammunition, and the various combinations and material for 
defence, which your military attendant can best describe, and the 
inspection of which can but prove of lasting interest to all visit¬ 
ors. On the forbidding river walls, and at each angle or possible 
commanding point, guns of heavy calibre sweep every avenue of 
approach by the river; ditches, breastworks and frowning bat¬ 
teries command the approaches by land from the famed “ Plains 
of Abraham.” The precipitous bluffs, rising almost perpendicu¬ 
larly from the river, three hundred and forty feet, present a 
natural barrier which may be swept with murderous fire, and the 
covered ways of approach and retreat, the various kinds and 
calibre of guns, mortars, howitzers and munitions of war will be 
viewed with eager interest. 

The wide outlook from the river wall of the citadel will also 
enchain the attention of the visitor who is fortunate enough to 
look, in the soft light of the declining sun, upon the bold pro¬ 
montories, smiling fields, picturesque villages, glittering roofs and 
spires, wide, tranquil waters and distant plains and forests which 
combine in the wide and charming landscape. 

Across the river the view is directly upon the settlement of 
Point Levi, where, in 1775, the little army of Arnold rendez¬ 
voused, after that memorable march through the wilderness, and, 
made the mad attempt to dislodge the English forces within the 
11 


162 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


the city. Modern fortifications of great strength are being 
erected at this point. The identical spot where the brave Mont¬ 
gomery fell, in a winding sheet of snow in the cold December 
storm, is pointed out to you from the citadel walls, and, in your 
ride about the city, the low-roofed building to which his remains 
were conveyed will be pointed out, as also the street where 
Arnold’s forces were defeated and captured. Looking down the 
river the Island of Orleans, nineteen miles long and five and a 
half miles wide, swells in flowing curves from the river—a fruit¬ 
ful, populous and beautiful land. 

To the west you look upon the Plains of Abraham and the brink 
of the precipitous blufis scaled by the dauntless Wolfe and his 
brave soldiery in that memorable surprise and victory in 1759, 
immediately following the humiliating defeat at Montinorenci. 
Upon the spot where the brave commander fell, a granite shaft 
briefly tells the story of his victory and death, at the early age of 
thirty-three years. 

DRIVES. 

There would seem to be no end to the points of interest to 
which the tourist may be taken in and around this ancient city, 
but one of the principal, and often the first, is the eight mile 
drive through St. John’s gate, over an excellent, paved road, 
supported by tolls, through the suburb of St. Roche and 
Beauport, to the falls at the mouth of the small but rapid Mont- 
morenci River, known as the Falls of Montinorenci. 

As you cross the St. Charles River, in leaving the city, the 
vessels in process of construction attract attention. In the 
building of substantial and durable vessels Quebec has gained 
Enviable fame. 

The scene along this drive is entirely French, the women 
perform the labor in the gardens and are seen going to and 
returning from market, in the odd market wagons drawn by 
Canadian ponies. The conversation of the native is in French. 

A few miles out you will be shown the unique and ancient 
cottage, where Montcalm had his headquarters at the time of 
the celebrated battle with Wolfe, and near which was fought the 
first and unsuccessful battle for the possession of the key to the 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


163 


Canadas. It is allowed to remain in its ancient condition, and is 
eagerly viewed by the thousands who pass it daring the season 
of summer travel. 



On either side of the road from this point, in close proximity to 
the street, are the quaint little Canadian cottages set at every 
imaginable angle with the road, white as the snow, in their 
summer coating of whitewash, with steep roofs, odd stone 
chimneys, and out-door ovens, all with a look of neatness and 
thrift. We do not remember seeing even an approach to the 
squallid or filthy in the whole line of humble cottages. Reach- 













































164 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


ing the little Montmorenci River you look about you on historic 
ground, for here was fought the unsuccessful and nearly disas¬ 
trous battle of Montmorenci, which immediately preceded 
Wolfe’s final victory on the Plains of Abraham. 

Registering your name at a little hotel, the landlady of which 
is entirely competent to the management of the establishment, 
and paying the small fee exacted as owners or lessees of the land 
through which you pass, you follow a path through the fields, 
around a cove of the St. Lawrence, and look across the inter¬ 
vening gulf upon the beautiful fall of the Montmorenci, two 
hundred and forty feet descent, into the St. Lawrence, over the 
almost perpendicular wall of the bluff. 

If you have come expecting to look upon a mighty cataract, 
falling with deafening roar and mighty force along trembling 
descents, you will be disappointed; but if a delicate ribbon of 
snowy whiteness, rolling over the bluff and melting into the wa¬ 
ters below, appearing as white, pure and gossamer-like as the 
folds of a bridal veil, has charms for you, then this delicate leap 
of the feathery foam over the worn rocks of the almost perpen¬ 
dicular bluff will live in your memory a rare scene of picturesque 
and dreamy beauty. The width of the main stream is about 
fifty feet, widening at high water to sixty or seventy feet. On 
either side of the main descent small streams creep down the 
seams of the rocky wall in serpentine lines of white or silvery 
brightness. Another view is to approach directly to the brink of 
the fall, descend a flight of steps built down the steep wall of 
rock, and stand where the spray and foam rush past you into the 
white mass below. 

On either side of the fall stand the towers of the Suspension 
Bridge, erected several years ago, and which, from some imper¬ 
fection, gave way, precipitating a laborer and his family, who 
were crossing in a rude cart at the time, into the seething mass 
below. The bridge was never rebuilt, and the towers stand soli¬ 
tary upon the banks. 

The falls are a favorite place of resort in winter for the Cana¬ 
dians, the spray freezing in a huge icy cone, down whico a daring 
coasting feat is performed, known in local phrase as “ tobogging.” 
The “ Natural Steps,” three quarters of a mile above the falls, 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


165 


extend for half a mile along the limestone banks of the river, and 
have the regularity of the work of liuman skill. 

Returning to the city by the same, or a different route, you will 
be interested by the view presented from the different points. 
The tin roofs of the larger buildings and spires of the churches 
here, as at Montreal, St. Hyacinthe and the larger villages, pre¬ 
serve all their dazzling brilliancy, and, as the sun falls upon the 
domes, spires and roofs of the city, it needs no poetical imagina¬ 
tion to remind you of the brilliant pictures of oriental cities. 
How this lasting brightness is retained, whether by the peculiarity 
of climate or non-corrosive quality of the metal, we have not seen 
explained. Once more within the city, 

DURHAM TERRACE, 

widely famed as affording a view, considered by many as second 
to none in the world, obtained from within settled town limits, 
will detain you for a time as you overlook the broad landscape 
spread below and described in the outlook from the citadel walls. 

THE GOVERNOR’S GARDEN, 

or garden of the fortress, is a point of interest chiefly for the 
monument (sixty-five feet in height), erected to the memory of 
those two brave commanders, Wolfe and Montcalm, who, though 
in life brought in deadly enmity, are united in the memories and 
honors of the future. 

The Grand Battery, the Esplanade, the English Cathedral, the 
Ursuline Convent, founded early in the seventeenth century, 
with its fine paintings, the University of Quebec, the Jail and 
Quebec Music Hall, with the Custom House and Exchange in 
the lower town, and the ship yards, river docks and manufacto¬ 
ries on the St. Charles river, will repay a visit if your stay admits. 

LAVAL UNIVERSITY 

was established under Catholic auspices, but is open to students 
of all creeds and nations, and a visit thereto is of great interest 


166 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


to people of culture. In the provision of apparatus and dia¬ 
grams, and in securing the highest talent in its instructors in the 
wide range of sciences which the student may study with best 
assistance, and in facilities afforded to acquire superior instruc¬ 
tion in the learned professions, this institution is probably second 
to none in the States or Canadas. The laboratories, lecture- 
rooms, cabinets and library are superior in accommodation and 
unusual in extent. In the Seminary Chapel, attached to this 
University, are the celebrated paintings by Champagne and 
others, and in the French Cathedral are fine productions of 
Vandyke and others, and the interior of this old church is. of 
rare beauty. 

THE PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. «. 

will receive an early visit, invested as they are with historic 
interest and tragic legends, which lapse of time seems only to 
heighten and intensify — the scene of the most daring military 
manoeuvres and signal victory of the time. On the spot where 
Wolfe fell, on this noted plain, is seen the modest monument to 
his memory, and the distance to the path by which the famed 
ascent of his army was made is not great. It is somewhat shorn 
of its rugged character by the leveling effects of time and the 
elements, but is still precipitous and forbidding. 

ISLE OF ORLEANS. 

Do not omit, during your stay, to cross, by the ferry boat, to 
this fair island, and take the drive around it, which offers that con¬ 
tinuous and varying circuit of outlying scenery which you can ill 
afford to miss, including views of the Falls of Montmorenci, the 
Laurentian Mountains, Cap Tourment (1,100 feet in height), the 
villages upon either side in picturesque surroundings, and the 
beauty of the fair isle itself, with the broad encircling river and 
the craft upon its bosom, and the grand old city of the north in 
the distance — all memorable points in the history of the olden 
times. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


167 


CHAUDIERE FALLS, 

visited via Point Levi, on the river of the same name, nine miles 
below Quebec, have a descent of one hundred and thirty feet, the 
river being four hundred feet wide at this point. 

FISHING. 

Those making Quebec their headquarters for excursions for 
sporting, can easily reach, by steamer down the river, in the 
branches of the !St. Lawrence, or in the Lakes at no great dis¬ 
tance from the city, unequalled opportunity for the exercise of 
their skill, with sure promise of reward. 


CHAPTER XIII 


SCENERY AND LOCALITIES IN NORTHERN 
VERMONT. 


From Wells River, where the Boston, Concord, Montreal & 
White Mountains Railroad, Connecticut River Railroad from be¬ 
low, the Passumpsic River Railroad northward, and the Wells 
River & Montpelier Railroad westward, all form a junction, the 
tourist may, by taking the train over the Passumpsic River Rail¬ 
road, pass northward to interesting and picturesque localities in 
northern Vermont. The route is up the valley of the Connecti¬ 
cut River, which leaves at Barnet; thence following the valley of 
the winding and rapid Passumpsic, which, with the adjacent 
country, all who have an eye for the picturesque and pastoral, in 
a succession of flying landscapes, will view with continual pleas¬ 
ure. Pullman palace sleeping cars are run, and one can sup in 
Boston, take a berth in a sleeping car, and rise to a breakfast of 
lake trout at Newport in the morning. 

ST. JOHNSBURY, 

twenty miles from Wells River, is one of the finest of Vermont 
towns, noted for its thrift, enterprise, romantic situation, and im¬ 
portance as a manufacturing centre. At this point the Portland 
& Ogdensburg Railroad intersects the Passumpsic line. The 
Vermont division of this new line is already running westward 
and eastward, and passengers may leave St. Johnsburyfor Mount 
Mansfield by this new route, going by rail to Morrisville and 
Hydepark. 




NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAYEL. 


169 


A stay of a day at St. Johnsbury will be a day well spent, and 
the Scale Works of the Messrs. Fairbanks are the feature of the 
town. The extensive manufacture of every class of scales, from 
the immense dock and railroad scale to the tiny balance of the 
banker, all equally nice in adjustment, and correct in plan of 
construction, is here carried on by skilled workmen, directed by 
indomitable energy, and true business tact and honor. It wonld 
seem strange that the iron of Missouri and Pennsylvania should 
be sent to this point, far up among the hills, to be fashioned for 
use by Yankee workmen, and returned to weigh the virgin ore; 
but such is the case, and it is one of the curious facts in manu¬ 
facture and exchange. This is the shire town of Caledonia 
county, it is the important centre of northwestern Vermont, has 
fine county and school buildings, beautiful natural surroundings, 
and an industrious and fast increasing population. The prospec¬ 
tive increase of railroad facilities by the assured completion of 
the railway to Portland, through the heart of the White Moun¬ 
tains, cannot fail to add to its prosperity and importance. The 

St. Johnsbury House, 

recently refitted and renovated, kept by J. B. Walker, Esq., is 
a good first class hotel. Few places, of its population, in the 
country, have so many of the desirable institutions and luxuries 
usually supposed to be found only in the large and wealthy cities; 
for this reason, as well as its healthy location and pleasant sur¬ 
roundings, with the acknowledged public spirit of its manufac¬ 
turers and people, the village is desirable for residence for people 
of leisure as well as a favorable point for business. 

Continuing northward from St. Johnsbury, just before reaching 
Lyndon, you will notice one of those charming waterfalls which 
so often break the flow of the rapid Passumpsic River. At 
Lyndonville are the repair and construction shops of this im¬ 
portant railway line, and a growing country town, West Burke, 
thirty-seven miles from Wells River, is the station from which 
passengers leave, by stage line, for Lake Willoughby. Burke 
Mountain, a bold elevation of 2,000 feet, will be observed to 
the right as you approach this station, and a good view of the 
eastern wall of Lake Willoughby is had as you near this point. 


170 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAYEL. 


WILLOUGHBY LAKE. 

The hotel at this lake is six miles distant from the West Burke 
Station; conveyance may be had at the hotel at this point for the 
lake, and no doubt a regular stage line will be run in the season 
of pleasure travel. This wonderful sheet of water lies between 
two lofty mountain walls, evidently once united, but torn asunder 
by some terrible convulsion of nature in remote ages. The sur¬ 
face of the lake is nearly 1,200 feet above sea level, and 
the mountain walls tower on either side to the height of nearly 
2,000 feet above the lake. Under these frowning walls on the 
narrow bank threads the roadway. 

Mount Willoughby or Annanance, the eastern wall, is nearly 
2,000 feet in height, and Mount Hor, on the western side, 
is of somewhat less elevation. From the summit of these 
heights you may look to the southeast upon the White and Fran¬ 
conia Mountains, westward to the bold peaks and ranges of the 
Green Mountains, northward into the Canadas, and southward 
along the wide valley between the great mountain ranges. 

At one point from this height you can look down, a sheer 
descent of 2,500 feet, upon the pure, transparent waters of the 
lake below, visible in its every outline and feature. 

The Willoughby Lake House 

is a commodious hotel, accommodating a hundred guests, finely 
situated, overlooking the lake to the northward. 

We will now continue by rail from West Burke northward. 

Irasburg, a favorite resort for those loving the quiet of the 
pretty village, near the Lowell Mountains, is reached by staging 
from Barton’s Landing, three and one-half miles, and, continuing 
on, at sixty-rfive miles north of Wells River the pretty village of 
Newport comes into view, the inviting exterior of the Memphre- 
magog House, close by the railroad station, gladdens the eyes of 
tired travelers, and the calm waters of Lake Memphremagog, 
with the fine steamer at the landing, give promise of enjoyment 
and comfort in prospect. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


171 



NEWPORT 

is the station from which the attractions of the lake are reached, 
and is a cheery, pleasant village in the midst of grand and varied 
scenery, where the summer heats are tempered by the cool breeze 
from the placid lake. Its older inhabitants may perhaps “a tale un¬ 
fold” of smuggling in the olden time, but, since the village has 
become important as a railway and business centre the old order of 
things has passed away and “ways that are vain” no longer en¬ 
gage the attention of the busy populace. 

From the slight eminence, to the south of the village, known 
as Prospect Hill, you may overlook the country for miles in 
every direction. In the early morning or at close of day the 
view of the lake with its irregular outline, many islands and the 
changing hues imparted by the rising or setting sun, is peculiarly 
fine from this elevation. Jay’s Peak, Willoughby Mountain and 
the high summits of Mount Orford, Mount Elephantis and Owl’s 
" Head are all seen to advantage. 


The Bellevue House, 


located near the Depot, is a new, commodious and well kept 
hotel, H. Bean, proprietor. 





172 . 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


The Memphremagog House 

is a fine, spacious and well kept hotel, within a stone’s throw of 
the railway station and the steamboat landing, on the shores of 
the lake. It is of five stories, will accommodate four hundred 
guests, and the outlook from its extensive balconies towards the 
lake, upon the peak of Owl’s Head, which looms into view, and 
the surrounding scenery, is attractive to the visitor from the 
dust, heat and noise of the crowded city, and a promenade in the 
quiet evening hour along its ample verandas is one of the de¬ 
lights of summer travel. W. F. Bowman, Esq., is a gentle¬ 
manly and experienced landlord. Sail and row-boats are fur¬ 
nished by the landlord at any time to suit the wants and tastes of 
excursionists or sportsmen, and for the fine drives hereabouts 
good teams may be had. The drive to the summit of Jay’s 
Peak, in the towns of Westfield and Jay, thirteen miles distant, 
is one which all should take. A list of drives, with distances, is 
conspicuously placed in the hotel. The village of Stanstead, 
just over the Canada line, is often visited, and Clyde and Coven¬ 
try Falls are within easy driving distance. Despite all other 
attractions your greatest interest will centre in the 

BOAT TRIP DOWN THE LAKE. 

Lake Memphremagog, two-thirds of which lies in Canadian 
Dominions, is the charming rival of Lake George, which it re¬ 
sembles in conformation. Its length is thirty miles, the breadth 
about two miles, widening in some portions to six miles. The 
bold, rock-bound shores, numerous wooded islands, the shadow¬ 
ing peaks of lofty mountains, rising, in some cases to 3,000 feet 
in height, with slopes of luxurious forest and greenest verdure, 
serve but to heighten the charm of this “ Beautiful Water,” sup¬ 
plied from the pure, cold streams of the surrounding mountains. 

The new, staunch, iron steamer, “Lady of the Lake,” one 
hundred and seventy feet in length, and a model of neatness and 
convenience leaves the landing near the hotel and railway depot 
each morning at about eight o’clock, also after dinner for the 
second trip, the run being made in three hours each way. Her 
commander, Captain Fogg, has for a lifetime known every point 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


173 


upon these waters, and can give valuable information or amuse 
you with stories and legends innumerable, pertaining to the old 
time history of this wild and secluded region. The zigzag course 
of the steamer gives you a trip of nearly fifty miles sailing from 
Newport to the village at the northern outlet—Magog—a Cana¬ 
dian hamlet with a background of forest extending to Mount 
Orford. 

Space will forbid the attempt even to notice all the places and 
objects of interest around this lovely sheet of water, lying in its 
narrow, deep and shadowed basin. 

It will be observed that the eastern shores are fertile and 
sparsely populated with a farming community; the western shore 
is more bold and abrupt, rising, in many places, in frowning 
bluffs of several hundred feet elevation. The small Canadian 
village of Cedarville, in Stanstead, is on the eastern side, so 
named from the surrounding cedar groves, and beyond is Fitch’s 
Bay, with the island at its entrance. You now approach the bold 
peak of 

owl’s head, 

a name applied to many summits in the mountains, with what 
show of propriety you must judge. This is a regular cone-like 
summit. Leaving 

ROUND ISLAND, 

• 

a cedar-crowned swell of rock-bound land, rising from the lake, 
about a half mile from the base of Owl’s Head, which you are 
now approaching, the boat lands you in a few minutes at the 
wharf of that land-locked and mountain-shadowed hotel, the 
Mountain House. The view of the lake from this hotel is 
splendid, and the facilities for fishing and sporting attract that 
class of tourists in large numbers. The ascent of Owl’s Head 
is made from that hotel. There are curious and prominent way 
marks on the ascent, and the prospect is grand and extensive, ex¬ 
tending, with favorable weather, to Montreal and the great St. 
Lawrence Kiver, over the whole extent of the lake and the cluster 
ot lakes, ponds and system of rivers, with the ranges, peaks and 
villages around the wide sweep of view. 


174 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


Eastward from the Mountain House, near the eastern shore, is 
Skinner’s Island, and on its northeastern shore is Skinner’s 
Cave, a narrow den in the rock, some thirty feet deep. The 
legend of Uriah Skinner, the bold ‘‘Smuggler of Magog,” is too 
long for our pages, but ’tis said he took refuge from pursuit in 
this cave and there perished, hence the name of “ Skinner’s 
Cave,” and grave. 

Steaming northward from this point the great mountains rear 
their huge masses into view. Owl’s Head, Sugar Loaf, or Mount 
Elephantis, the Hog’s Lack, and, away in the distance, Jay’s 
Peak. Meanwhile, Long Island, with its bold shores, has been 
passed, and on its southern line is the famous 

BALANCE ROCK, 

a huge granite mass, balanced upon a point close to the water’s 
edge, an object of interest to the learned and the curious. The 
eastern shores are now abrupt, and residences of wealthy Cana¬ 
dians crown the heights. Molson, the Montreal banker, has 
here his summer residence, and is the proprietor of an island 
near the eastern shore. 

Georgeville is a place of some importance, where stop is made 
for the mails, and you steam across to the western shore to Knovvl- 
ton’s Landing. Stages run from this point to Waterloo, on the 
Stanstead and Chambly Railroad, where cars may be taken lor 
Montreal and intermediate points. Steaming on from this land¬ 
ing, and rounding the bold, rocky promontory of Gibraltar Point, 
you have a wide view, with 

MOUNT ORFORD 

in the distance—the highest summit of Lower Canada, 3,300 feet 
elevation, distant five miles from the village of Magog, and may 
be ascended by carriage roadway to the summit. 

MAGOG, 

or Outlet Village, is the terminal point of the trip—a true 
Canadian settlement. The Parks House affords you entertain¬ 
ment, but good dinners may be obtained on the boat. Passen- 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


175 


gers can here take the stage line to Sherbrooke, on the Grand 
Trunk Railway, (a ride of sixteen miles around Mount Orford) 
or to Waterloo, (twenty-one miles,) on the Shefford & Chambly 
Railroad. 

But most of those who came with us will make the return trip 
to Newport, viewing the fine scenery along the shores in reverse 
order, and continue their journey to Montreal by 

The South-Eastern Railway, 

a new line from Newport, shortening the distance and saving 
time to the tourist, and affording to through passengers from the 
Connecticut valley, especially from its northern portion, and 
from the White Mountains, a short and direct route to the Cana¬ 
dian metropolis. This route is along the valley of the Clyde 
River, via Ricliford, West Farnham and St. Johns, to Montreal, 
through the Victoria Bridge. Trains are now run in connection 
with the Connecticut and Passumpsic Express Line (no change 
of cars), and afford all the accommodations qnd improvements 
demanded by first class through travel. The old Passumpsic 
line northward runs along the Massawippi valley, by the shores 
of Massawippi Lake, uniting at Sherbrooke with the Grand 
Trunk line for Montreal, Quebec and intermediate points. The 
scenery upon any of the Canadian lines is not sufficiently at¬ 
tractive to merit extended description. 


CHAPTER XIV. 


« 


FROM WELLS RIYER TO MONTPELIER, THE STATE 
CAPITAL, THENCE WESTWARD TO LAKE CHAM¬ 
PLAIN, LAKE GEORGE AND SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


This route gives railway facilities to a section of country here¬ 
tofore destitute, passes through a fertile region rich in agricultural 
products and lumber, landing the passenger in the heart of the 
State, at the old capital town of Montpelier. 

On this new route the town of Marshfield is one of importance, 
the village being distant about a mile from the station. Here are 
valuable water-powers utilized for lumber manufacture. Many 
fine trout ponds are within short distances, and “ Molly’s Falls,” 
a short distance from the village, is a fine descent of water of 
some two hundred feet fall, with attractive surrounding scenery. 
It will be a place of resort in the warm season. Ryegate, Gro¬ 
ton, Peacham and Plainfield are intersected on the way to 

MONTPELIER, 

which is distant thirty-eight miles, by rail, from Wells River. 
This old New England capital, with its substantial public build¬ 
ings, fine location in the valley of the Winooski River, surrounded 
by hills, from which you look upon wide landscapes peculiar to 
the Mountain Commonwealth, should be visited by all. The 
Capitol building is a fine granite structure of elaborate architec¬ 
ture and pleasing design. The rooms, where are collected the 
geological specimens from every section of the State, and docu¬ 
ments and articles, ancient, curious and rare, relating to the 
history of the State, should be visited by all whose time admits. 




NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


177 


There are three insurance companies, two national banks, manu¬ 
facturing in considerable variety, and the church edilices are 
among the finest in the State. The Vermont Central Railroad 
does not enter the village, but is reached by a branch road of one 
and one-half miles in length. 

Bishop’s Hotel, 

H. H. Bishop, Esq., proprietor, is one of the old land marks of 
the capital, and beneath its ancient roof the traveler or tourist 
may always find substantial comfort. 

The drives in the vicinity are charming. From many points, at 
no great distance from the village, grand views of the Winooski 
valley open to view—fine pictures of mountain ranges and smiling 
valleys, the charm of which time only will dispel. Leaving the 
capital and passing northward the central line runs along the val¬ 
ley of the Winooski, and 

WATERBURY, 

the Mount Mansfield stage station of this road, is reached—a fine 
summer resort in the wide valley, lying among the great hills and 
mountains. Drives from here to the natural bridge at Bolton 
Falls, three miles, and to Camel’s Hump, eight miles, are attractive. 

The Waterbury Hotel is an “hostelrie” of good repute and 
deserved popularity, over which the proprietor presides by right 
of his ability to do what many cannot, that is “ keep a hotel.” 
The accommodations are for one hundred guests, and the house 
affords a fine place of resort for pleasure seekers. 

The trip from Waterbury to the pleasant village of 

STOWE, 

ten miles distant, at the base of Mount Mansfield, is made by 
staging in the royal style of the olden time, in coaches drawn by 
six white horses. This pleasant village is flanked by mountains, 
and here visitors are provided with teams, guides and ail needful 
help for the ascent. Situated in this pleasant locality is 
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NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


179 



The Mount Mansfield Hotel, 


calculated to accommodate four hundred guests. It is spacious 
and commodious in all its arrangements and appointments,' and 
the stables and alleys connected are on a liberal scale. The pro¬ 
prietors are not to be outdone in their attentions to guests. N. 
P. Keeler, Esq., is the experienced and popular manager. 

The walks and drives cannot be surpassed. A short distance 
from the hotel, Sunset Hill commands a fine view of the sur¬ 
rounding country. The drives to “Smuggler’s Notch,” the most 
wild and romantic mountain gorge in New England, eight miles; 
Bingham’s Falls, five miles; Moss Glen Falls, three and one-half 
miles; Gold Brook, three miles; West Hill, two miles; Morris- 
ville Falls and Johnson’s Falls, eight and twelve miles respec¬ 
tively, are a series of excursions which can but afford pleasure to 
patrons of this house. A carriage road has been constructed to 
the summit of Mount Mansfield, eight miles distant. 

The Summit House 

is the hotel, under the western side of the nose, affording sub¬ 
stantial comfort to one hundred guests. This ascent, in its whole 


















180 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


course, is one of continuous interest; the wildness and grandeur 
of the scenery, and the novelty of experience upon the route, 
amply repay all expense incurred or fatigue experienced in the 
j ourney. 

Reluctlantly leaving this magnificent prospect and returning 
to Stowe, and from thence, after resting, to the railroad at 
Waterbury, you continue the journey northward. Cars maybe 
left at Ridley’s station, where conveyance can be had for 
“Camel’s Hump,” a lone summit only six miles distant, so 
named from the peculiar outline of its form seen from a 
distance; and, next to Mansfield, the noticeable summit of the 
State. 

Mount Mansfield is the grand feature in the landscape. 
The bold summits of this noble eminence are thought to repre¬ 
sent in their peculiar outline the features of the human face, 
looking upward forever from the firm base of the everlasting 
hills. The “forehead,” “nose” and “chin” being represented 
by separate elevations of the great mass. The chin is the most 
prominent, being 4,350 feet above sea level, the forehead only 
3,850 feet, while the nose rises one hundred and sixty feet above 
the forehead, perhaps the only nose upon which an “ extra” inch 
would be hardly noticeable. Climbing to the point of the nose, 
a rocky knob of Cromwellian proportions in this immense 
portrait, you overlook a reach of view scarcely surpassed in 
grandeur and sublimity. Lake Champlain and the Adirondacks, 
the St. Lawrence valley, Montreal and the mountains cf Canada, 
and around Lake Memphremagog, the White and Franconia 
Mountains to the eastward, and the broken ranges of hills and 
mountains and silver lines of rivers within the State. Your 
guide will duly explain to you the many localities, and the scien¬ 
tific will be interested in the “ testimony of the rocks ” on these 
high peaks, giving evidence of former submergence. 

AT ESSEX JUNCTION 

you may diverge, by branch railway of eight miles, along the 
Winooski valley, through the brisk Winooski Village, at the 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


181 


Falls of the same name, through the “tunnel” of nearly four 
hundred feet length, piercing a high bluff, to the fair city of 

BURLINGTON, 

the queen city of the mountain commonwealth, on the eastern 
slope of Lake Champlain, which, at this point, is ten miles 
wide. This is one of the great lumber ports of the country, and 
manufactories of iron, steel and wooden wares and woolen fab¬ 
rics are numerous and important. See fuller description, in 
succeeding chapter, of this city and surrounding towns. 


CHAPTER XV, 


FROM SARATOGA TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, BY 
RAIL, OR THROUGH THE LAKES. 


This route is over the Rensselaer & Saratoga Railroad line, via 
Fort Edward, the Whitehall or Lake Champlain Junction, Castle- 
ton and West Rutland to Rutland; thence, by the Rutland 
& Burlington Division of the Central Vermont Railroad, through 
Brandon, Middlebury and Vergennes, to Burlington, on Lake 
Champlain. At Essex Junction (eight miles above Burlington) 
connection is formed with the Central Vermont Railroad, and 
passengers may proceed directly to Montpelier and the White 
Mountains. These roads are run in close connection. The cars 
are among the finest run on New England roads, and the scenery 
along the way is beautiful and romantic. 

AT WEST RUTLAND 

are the extensive marble quarries of Sheldons & Slason, and 
RUTLAND 

is the centre of the marble interest of Vermont, which has be¬ 
come the important industry of this section. It is also a flourish¬ 
ing town for trade from the surrounding regions, has good hotel 
accommodations, and is attractive and popular as a place of resi¬ 
dence or for temporary sojourn. 

The Bates House, 

L. F. Page, proprietor, is a large, well-furnished and excellently 
managed house of entertainment. 




NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


183 


BRANDON 

is an important town, having manufactories of some importance. 
The “ Frozen Well of Brandon,” has much notoriety—a coating 
of ice forming upon the water in the hottest of summer days. 
Eight miles from Brandon is 

LAKE DUNMORE, 

named in honor of the Earl of Dunmore, a beautiful sheet of 
water, lying among the Green Mountains of Vermont, and 
distant also eight miles from Middlebury. The Lake is about 
five miles long and one mile wide, covering a space of about four¬ 
teen hundred acres, at an altitude of three hundred and fifty- 
eight feet above the sea. Its waters are clear as crystal, and its 
shores skirted with a variety of charming scenery. 

MIDDLEBURY 

is the county seat of Addison county, and the seat of Middlebury 
College. It is important as a manufacturing town, and large 
quantities of a superior quality of white marble are exported. 

VERGENNES 

is the smallest in territorial extent of any “ city ” in the country. 
It has a fine harbor and an excellent water power from the falls 
on Otter Creek. It was once important as a military station, 
and its limited area of three hundred and eighty by four hundred 
rods extent is generally utilized. It can be conceived that no 
difficulty is experienced, as in other cities, from its “magnificent 
distances ” and scattered and isolated sections. 

The Stevens House, 

S. S. Gaines, proprietor, is a well kept, neat and commodious 
house of entertainment, long and favorably known to travelers. 

WINOOSKI, 

between Burlington and Essex Junction, is a thriving village, 
with several enterprising manufacturing establishments. 


V 


184 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 

From Essex Junction the route is south-easterly, over the Cen¬ 
tral Vermont line, through the mountainous region, via Bich- 
mond and Waterbary, with distant views of Mounts Mansfield 
and Camel’s Hump, to Montpelier (previously described), and 
thence, by Wells River route, to the mountains. 

Passengers may also go directly to Montreal from Essex Junc¬ 
tion via St. Albans and St. Johns through the Victoria Bridge. 

THE ROUTE BY LAKE BOATS 

is the one chosen by many, especially by those whose time and 
inclination allow, and tempt them to view the beauties of the 
scenery and places of historic interest about Lake George and 
Lake Champlain. 

To make this trip, go by rail over the Bensselaer & Saratoga 
Railroad to Fort Edward, as before, thence by Glens Falls branch, 
a short ride, to 

GLENS FALLS, 

a flourishing and picturesque manufacturing village. The village 
was completely destroyed by fire about ten years since, but has 
recovered from the disaster. The falls on the Hudson have a 
descent of seventy feet. This fall is two hundred miles from the 
mouth of the Hudson River; the river wears its way over strata 
of black limestone. The action of the water has worn some of 
these strata away, a few at the top, and more further down the 
falls, so that a kind of irregular series of steps has been formed, 
over which the waters of the river go thundering down. 

A bridge six hundred feet long spans the Hudson, resting, in 
the centre, on a marble island. This is the spot where, in the 
“ Last of the Mohicans,” the inimitable Cooper located some of 
his finest drawn characters. By a private stairway that goes 
down near the bridge, one may reach two objects of interest, viz.: 
Indian Cave and Big Snake. The cave runs through a small 
island from one channel to another, and has been made famous 
by the genius of Cooper. Veins of satin spar are found in the 
fallen rocks below, and trilobites are sometimes imbedded in the 
rocks. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


185 


The Rockwell House, 

Rockwell Brothers, proprietors, is the hotel where the tourist 
will make his home during his stay. The house is finely located, 
both as to convenience of patrons and picturesque surroundings. 
The patrons of this house will find the managers fully up to the 
modern demands made for first-class entertainment by the many 
whose means and leisure allow them to spend the summer months, 
or a portion of them, in recreation. Teams are furnished for all 
who wish to visit the many places of interest in the vicinity, and 
your stay, be it long or short, cannot but be a pleasant one. The 
man of business here has easy and sure connection with the 
great business centres, the man of leisure finds it a charming 
place of retreat, while for families, no better point can be found 
for spending a vacation. 

The stage route from Glens Falls to Caldwell, at the head 
of Lake George, gives a ride of nine miles through a wild and 
picturesque region. Five miles from Glens Falls Williams’ Rock 
is passed, marking the site of the bloody defeat of Col. Williams 
and his Indian allies, by the French commander Dieskau. Wil¬ 
liams was slain near the rock which bears his name. The victory 
of the French forces was of short duration; they were in turn 
defeated, and their leader wounded and taken prisoner, at the 
battle at the colonial camp at Lake George, where Gen. Johnson 
so gallantly avenged the French successes. The bodies of the 
English, slain in the first encounter, were thrown by the French 
soldiery in*o the quiet pool near Williams’ Rock, now known as 

BLOODY POND. 


“ The Bloody Defile ” is the ravine where the savage massacre 
occurred. 


CALDWELL 


is a quiet village at the head of the fair lake whose charms give it 
importance. There are several small hotels, but the Fort Wil¬ 
liam Henry Hotel, T. Roessle & Son, proprietors, is the 
elegant and sumptuous house of the tourist. It accommodates a 
thousand guests, is located near the ruins of Old Fort William 


186 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


Henry—the site of the fearful massacre by the Indian allies, 
aided, perhaps, by a portion of the French forces under Mont¬ 
calm, and about one mile from Fort George. The grounds are 
laid out with elegant taste, sloping down to the edge of the 
waters, affording fine views of the southern end of the lake. 
Promenades run the whole length of the hotel, fronting the lake, 
a sparkling fountain constantly plays in the well-arranged 
grounds, and all the arrangements of the interior are designed to 
give to guests the maximum of comfort and luxurious ease. 
Stages run to Scbroon Lake, Lake Luzerne, and to the southern 
Adirondacks. 

LAKE GEORGE 

- 

is three hundred feet above the sea level, thirty-six miles long, 
and varies in width from three-quarters of a mile to three or four 
miles. The depth is, in some places, more than four hundred 
feet, and the waters are everywhere remarkably clear, so much so 
that objects can be seen at a depth of more than thirty feet. The 
French gave it the name of “ Lake of the Holy Sacrament,” and 
used sometimes to transport the waters, on account of their 
purity, for use in their churches in baptismal fonts. Hot only 
are artists and lovers of sublime and beautiful scenery attracted 
to the lake, by its beautiful scenery, but the many old associa¬ 
tions, called up by a visit to its surroundings, make it a modern 
Mecca for the patriotic. 

It was first visited in 1646, by the French Jesuit, Father Jogues, 
who perished, as did many of his successors, by the hands of the 
fierce Mohawks, who dwelt around its borders. 

The trip through the lake from Caldwell is now made in a few 
hours, in one of the elegant steamers, “ Minnehaha” and “ Gan- 
ouskie,” via Bolton, Fourteen Mile Island and Hague, to the 
lower end of the lake, where stages (four miles staging) are taken 
for Ticonderoga and the pier of the Champlain steamers. 

Of the many points along the way, charming for beauty and 
grandeur, and interesting from association, we have not space for 
description; the eye will take them in with rare pleasure, and 
some one familiar with localities, will cheerfully point out the 
many points of interest. The outlet of Lake George is a rapid 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


187 


stream descending two hundred and forty feet, in the less than 
four miles of its flow before discharging into the larger Lake 
Champlain* The remains of old Fort Ticonderoga having been 
visited, standing in solitary ruin upon a high peninsula projecting 
into the lake, you take one of the steamers plying between White¬ 
hall, Burlington and Rouse’s Point on 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

This largest of eastern lakes is one hundred and forty miles 
extreme length, covers an area of six hundred square miles, con¬ 
nects at its southern base with the Hudson, by canal from White¬ 
hall, receives the surplus waters of Lake George, and discharges 
through the Richelieu River into the St. Lawrence. Burlington, 
St. Albans and Vergennes, on the eastern shore, have fine har¬ 
bors, and Plattsburg, Ticonderoga and Crown Point, on the New 
York side, are places of great historic interest and noted associa¬ 
tions. The scenery on the Ausable River, reached from Port 
Kent or Plattsburg, is the most remarkable of any inland stream 
in the Eastern States. Here the river dashes for a mile through 
a narrow passage in the sand-stone, between walls of two hun¬ 
dred feet perpendicular height, forming a cbasm wild, romantic 
and gi and in the extreme, distant twelve miles from Plattsburg. 

Lake Champlain was discovered in the year 1609 by Samuel de 
Champlain, the noted and indomitable French geographer. The 
following from “Chisholm’s Guide Book” is beautifully descrip¬ 
tive : “ Travelers who have widely explored the objects of in¬ 
terest in the New and Old World unite in pronouncing the 
waters and environs of Lake Champlain the most beautiful and 
impressive the eye can rest upon. The waters of the Lake, 
whether reposing in a calm, or surging under the power of the 
tempest, are indescribably beautiful; but this attraction is infin¬ 
itely enhanced by the islands which in varied forms stud its 
bosom, by the peninsulas which pierce it, and by the bold, rocky 
precipices that impend over the Lake. The shores on either 
side are impressive and beautiful; now a long line of rugged 
cliffs, crowned by dense forests, appears, and now smiling in 
luxurious ranges of culture and elegance, embellished by farm¬ 
houses, mansions and villages with their glittering spires. All 


188 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


this scene of beauty is embraced by the dark framework of moun¬ 
tains that impart magnificence to the whole.” 

This steamboat passage to Burlington gives beautiful views of 
Mount Mansfield and Camel’s Hump, of Green Mountain range, 
and the grand peaks and outlines of the Adirondacks in New 
York. 

CROWN POINT 

is twelve miles north of Ticonderoga, with the ruins of the old 
fortress on the high promontory between the lake and the bay 
beyond. Port Henry is a finely located village with a population 
engaged in iron mining and manufacture. Westport and Essex 
are other points, where steamers touch, and from which passage 
may be taken for the Adirondack region. Steaming on in a 
northeasterly course, passing the Four Brothers, Juniper Islands 
and Rock Dunder, 

BURLINGTON 

is reached; where passengers for the mountains will leave the 
boat. Those going through to Montreal, or Ogdensburg, will 
continue on to House's Point , there connecting with railway 
lines northward and westward. Burlington is one of the great 
lumber ports of the country. The ground on which it is built 
slopes gradually up from the lake, rising to a height of three hun¬ 
dred and seventy feet. The University of Vermont has fine 
buildings crowning the highlands. From the dome of the main 
building a grand scene is presented, including in the circle swept 
by the eye over sixty prominent peaks, the bright waters and 
islands of Lake Champlain with the towering summits of the 
Adirondacks beyond. The grave of the old hero, Etlian Allen , 
is visited by all patriots. A fine statue was erected over the 
grave during the year 1873. 

The Van Ness House, 

D. C. Barber & Co. proprietors, is also a new, large, commo¬ 
dious and well kept hotel, where all may be made comfortable, 
with good quarters and the best of fare, during their stay in this 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


189 


fine old Green Mountain city. No essential requisite to the 
traveler’s comfort will be wanting to guests at this popular house. 



From Burlington passengers may go over the Central Vermont 
Railroad to Essex Junction, thence to 

ST. ALBANS. 

Thirty-two miles from Burlington, twenty-four from Essex Junc¬ 
tion, and sixty-five miles from Montreal is the thriving village of 


















































































190 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


St. Albans. The town lias a population of 8,000, and the increase 
in wealth, mechanical pursuits and population is very rapid. 
The village is finely situated on the wide slope overlooking the 
waters of Lake Champlain. Main street is the principal and 
most attractive street. The railway station of the Vermont 
Central line is a spacious and commodious brick structure, and 
adjoining are the offices of this important line. The extensive 
construction and repair shops of the company are near by, where 
locomotives and cars of all descriptions are constructed and re¬ 
paired in a superior manner. The village is prettily laid out, 
has a fine common centrally located, and many tasty residences, 
that of ex-G-overnor Smith being particularly noticeable for its 
fine grounds and tasty arrangements. 

From Aldis Hill, a short distance to the rear of Gov. Smith’s 
fine residence, and easily reached by a stroll of a half hour, you 
have one of the finest views to be found in a wide range of 
travel, overlooking as it does, the great Lake and its islands, the 
distant Adirondacks, the wild counties of New York to the west, 
the fair village at your feet, and the wide valley and charming 
plains stretching southward and northward. Bellevue Hill, 
farther to the east, reached by a short drive, affords a still finer 
view, from the observatory, of the lake and surroundings, and 
also a wide outlook towards the interior of the State. 

Much of the business of Northwestern Vermont centres here. 
As a butter and cheese market it is quoted as the market of all 
others in those commodities. Water works are completed on a 
scale to supply the village with pure water for domestic use 
and business purposes. A rolling mill for the manufacture of 
railroad iron has lately been put in active operation. A court 
house of creditable proportions and design is just finished, and 
all the necessities and adornments of a flourishing town are 
here combined. It is the shire town of Franklin county, the 
finest agricultural county of the State. From St. Albans the 
traveler can proceed directly north to Montreal or diverge west¬ 
ward by the Ogdensburg line, or by either route continue to any 
section of the great west. 


SOUTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL, 


191 



The Welden House, 


Thomas Lavender, proprietor, has been opened for the last ten 
years, affording to the traveling public accommodations every 
way desirable. The name is in honor of Jesse Welden, the pioneer 
white settler of the town. Waters from the springs at Highgate, 
Sheldon and the nearer vicinity are furnished guests at this hotel. 
The entire construction and management of the house is on a 
liberal scale. During your stay you will naturally learn many 
particulars regarding the famous St. Albans raid in October, 1864, 
when pretended confederates swept into the unsuspecting quiet 
of the village, robbed its banks, murdered a citizen and wounded 
others, creating general excitement and widespread terror. 

From St. Albans tourists can go directly northward to Montreal 
and Quebec, or southward to White River or Wells River Junc¬ 
tion and the White Mountain region. 
























CHAPTER XVI, 


FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, 
MONTREAL AND QUEBEC, DOWN THE ST. LAW¬ 
RENCE TO THE SAGUENAY RIVER. 


Of the attractions at and about this grandest of waterfalls, where 
the waters of a great chain of inland seas plunge to a lower level 
over ragged, shelving ledges, and sweep between bold limestone 
walls in irresistible force, space forbids that we should attempt 
description. From the mad rush of the green waters in the 
rapids over the terrific fall, through the rapids and whirling 
eddies below, down to the quiet where the mad current again 
takes its undisturbed way in a tamer race to the lower lake, there 
is no point wanting in interest. 

The stranger may at first feel a shade of disappointment as he 
looks for the first time upon the world-famed cataract; so grandly 
proportionate are all the outlines of the bold shores to the volume 
of the fall, that it is not until the wonder is viewed in detail, 
without reference to the vastness of the combinations as a whole, 
that the full majesty and power of the fall is apparent to the 
sense. The vastness of the plunge grows upon the beholder as 
he views it by the soft moonlight and in the glare of noonday, 
invested ever with a 

* * * * * “ glorious rube 

Of terror and of beauty. 

God’s rainbow upon its forehead, His cloud-mantle around its feet.” 

Leaving the attractions of the falls with reluctance, the lover 
of the picturesque will wish to visit the romantic region of the 




NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


193 


White Hills, to pass down the grand northern river—the St. 
Lawrence—to the yawning ravine rent in rock where the floods 
of the chill Saguenay roll their unmeasured currents. 

The route is from the falls to Lewiston, a lovely town seven 
miles from the fall, on Lake Ontario. The Suspension Bridge 
over the Niagara just above the town has a span of 1,045 feet 
and is one of the flnest in the world. 

From this point you will go by one of the fine boats of the 
Ontario and Richelieu Line of Steamships to Toronto, that most 
substantial and enterprising of Canadian cities. This line of 
steamers have in command men of long experience and good 
judgment aud will ensure safe and easy transit with due dispatch. 

TORONTO. 

As you approach from the lake the view of this northern city is 
remarkably line, the wharves and public buildings giving indica¬ 
tions of a city of importance. It has a population of about 
65,000 souls, and is the chief city of the Upper Canadas or the 
Province of Ontario. The buildings of the University are mas¬ 
sive in proportion and built in the Norman style of architecture. 
Trinity College, the Normal School and Loretto Convent are 
other educational institutions of note. The English and Catholic 
Cathedrals are both buildings to attract attention. 

The Queen’s Hotel, 

Toronto, Ontario, Thomas McGaw, manager, is convenient to 
the Railway Stations and Steamboat Piers, on Front street, near 
the business portions of the city. Commodious rooms elegantly 
filled with new furniture of most modern style, spacious and at¬ 
tractive grounds and croquet lawns, with a sumptuous billiard 
parlor serve to make it an acceptable temporary or permanent 
home for the merchant or the tourist and for travelers generally. 
Carriages always in waiting for the pleasant drives and extensive 
views of a varied character in and around the city. The exten¬ 
sive Galleries of Art, the Queen’s Park, the University Build¬ 
ings, the Lunatic Asylum, the Trinity College and Normal 


13 


194 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


School are some of the places 'which must be seen. It is one of 
the largest hotels in the Dominion of Canada, and overlooks the 



beautiful Bay and Lake Ontario. His Imperial Highness, the 
Grand Duke Alexis, of Bussia, and his suite were furnished, in 
December 1871, with the splendid suite of apartments, compris¬ 
ing one wing of the house, without extra preparation. Tiie 
(Queen’s) Boyal Hotel at Niagara has the same ownership 
and management. 



















































NORTHERN 1 PLEASURE TRAVEL 


195 



By far the larger number of those who travel for pleasure will 
come by boat from Toronto, through Lake Ontario and the St. 
Lawrence Liver, among the Thousand Islands, over the Rapids 
and under the Great Victoria Bridge, to Montreal, rather than to 
make the trip by rail. 

The experience of this trip will not fail to interest and please 
all who have eyes to see and taste to appreciate the bold and 
varied scenery of this northern route. 

Entering the St. Lawrence River you leave Old Fort Henry at 
Kingston to the left and are among 



























































































































196 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 

The number of these islands is larger by about one half than 
the name would indicate. Commencing with Wolfe Island, a 
large tract of thirty miles in length, and increasing in number 
and decreasing in size as you descend they cut the water in 
every conceivable lorm and outline for several miles. Some 
tower from the water in bold and abrupt masses of granite or 
sandstone. Others are green with carpet of grasses or dot the 
waves, a miniature patch of earth in a waste of wave. 

Evidently far back in formative periods some wild throe of 
nature tossed the earth crust of this region in wildest disorder. 
Nature in healing its wounds heightens the charms which might 
be tame, if undisturbed. 

Home Island, Wellesly, Bathurst and Tecumseh Islands are 
among the largest of this peculiar group. 

The towns on either shore of the river each have their particu¬ 
lar associations of historic interest or peculiarity of location. 
Alexandria, oil the American side, is laid out upon the rocky 
shelf of the river, and will attract notice by the peculiarity of the 
location. Brockville, on the Canadian side, has military associa¬ 
tions familiar to readers of our earlier history. Some twelve 
miles below Brockville, on the American side, is Ogdensburg, 
with the old Canadian town of Prescott on the opposite bank. 
Here is the ferry, by which transfer is made from the Ogdensburg 
line of Bailway to the Grand Trunk line. 

The first of the rapids for which this great river is famous are 
encountered some five miles below Ogdensburg, where you enter 
among a small cluster of islands, of which “ Isle aux Galops ” is 
the largest, and continuing down through the rapids by Tossons’ 
Island, Point Iriquois and the longer rapids on either side of Og¬ 
dens Island, you reach the rapids of nearly ten miles in length 
called the “ Long Sault ”; the river is here divided by the island 
of the same name. 

The current rushes through these rapids at the rate of twenty 
miles an hour, and the descent is exciting in the extreme to one 
a stranger to the passage; but, with skilful pilotage,,the passage 
is safely made, and the apparent danger adds to the glow of ex¬ 
citement and makes it a journey to be remembered. 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


197 


Cornwall Island, with the town of Cornwall and the old Indian 
village of St. Regis, just below, are points of interest, and 

LAKE ST. FRANCIS, 

a widening of the great river, with its shoals, headlands and 
lights, is a broad and beautiful sheet of water, having at its east¬ 
ern outlet a group of islands of which Grand Island is the 
largest. Among these the Cotean Rapids fret and sweep in a 
wild and troubled current; below are the Cedar Rapids, and & 
little farther down the Cascade Rapids, at the entrance to 

LAKE ST. LOUIS. 

This lake receives one of the outlets of the great Ottawa 
River. At Lachine commences the Lachine Canal, built to 
avoid Lachine Rapids, but the pleasure traveler will not seek to 
avoid, but rather to enjoy the excitement of a dash down these swift 
and wild currents, which would be hazardous were it not for the firm 
hand of the Indian pilot, whose fame is known to all who make this 
leap down the mad descent of the rapid; for years he has safely 
guided the boats down the vexed current to the admiration and 
delight of all. Continuing below the rapids you come in sight of 
the commercial and financial metropolis of the Canadas, and 
steaming beneath the great Victoria Bridge, are soon anchored 
at the quays of this northern city, fully described in another 
chapter of this book. 

FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 

DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 

Taking the fine boats “ Quebec ” or “ Montreal,” of the Ontario 
& Richelieu Steamship Company’s line, which are fitted with all 
the conveniences of modern travel, and in charge of safe com¬ 
manders, leaving Montreal in the evening (excepting Sunday 
evening), passing the fort on the island in the harbor, leaving 
Longueil to the right, and passing the group of islands below 


198 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


the city and the mouth of the Ottawa River, you are fairly on the 
way to the old capital. Beloeil Mountain attracts attention to 
the eastward, and you cannot fail to be interested in the general 
appearance of the novel landscape, a sort of “Northern Holland,” 
the shores appearing in many instances from the boat to be below 
water level; in other places as you progress, the shores slope in 
terraces, or wide steps, terminating in a crowning ridge or sum¬ 
mit line. 

Sorel or William Henry, forty-five miles below Montreal, 
is the first station where a halt is made by the steamer. This 
Canadian town is built around a central square at the confluence 
of the St. Johns (otherwise known as the Richelieu or Sorel River) 
and the St. Lawrence. The St. Johns or Richelieu River is pe¬ 
culiar in the fact that, at its outlet, it is narrower than at its 
source or through its course, being the northern outlet of Lake 
Champlain. There is immense transportation of lumber along its 
course. 

Some fifty miles below Montreal, and five miles below Sorel, 
the broad river expands into a wide lake nearly twenty five miles 
in length, and, at its widest, nine miles width, known as “ Lake 
St. Peter,” and interspersed with islands at its upper entrance; 
though the wide expansion produces a shallow depth, the channel 
followed by shipping admits the passage of vessels of the larger 
class. The River St. Francis here enters the lake from the south. 

The St. Leon Springs have become a favorite place of resort 
within the last few years, the waters having curative properties 
of undisputed value. 

The scenery along the route may not prove of sufficient variety 
and interest to keep the traveler from needed rest through the 
long night hours, though the mighty river, draining through the 
lakes that immense valley, will never be without its suggestions 
of power; and, when the moon, breaking from rolling curtains of 
cloud, tints the broad expanse, till it glitters like a vast surface 
of silver sparkling with diamond points of light, which fade and 
renew in the wake of the dancing silver waves marking your 
progress, the wakeful traveler will find no lack of suggestive 
sights in his midnight watch. 

A great amount of shipping of every class will be passed, and 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


199 


immense timber rafts will be observed in the descent, floating 
down to the lumber mart at Quebec, sometimes in single rafts, 
and sometimes in many combined in a floating timber town, pop¬ 
ulous with hardy lumbermen, whose songs enliven the monotony 
of their voyage. 

The town of “ Three Rivers,” midway between Montreal and 
Quebec, is one of the oldest settlements in Canada, and has con¬ 
vent buildings and church edifices of considerable architectural 
pretensions. The town was first settled in 1618, and has a popu¬ 
lation of nearly 6,000 souls. The River St. Maurice here joins 
the St. Lawrence, and is divided at its mouth by islands into 
three distinct channels, hence the name of the town “ Three 
Rivers.” Immense quantities of logs and manufactured lumber 
come down the St. Maurice, to this lumber centre, where are 
located several extensive saw mills and foundries. A branch of 
the Grand Trunk Railway diverging from the Quebec division at 
Arthabaska has its terminus at Doucet’s Landing, opposite this 
point. 

A canoe voyage up the St. Maurice for thirty miles to the 
“Falls of the Shawenegan ” is sometimes made. Just above the 
mouth of the Shawenegan river the broad stream plunges in a 
sheer descent of one hundred and fifty feet—a natural wonder, 
which, if easily reached, would be one of the chief attractions of 
Canadian travel. 

Some fifty miles before reaching Quebec the rapids of Rich¬ 
elieu, where the river contracts into narrow space, and the cur¬ 
rent flows over a rocky bed, was, in the olden time, considered 
quite an impediment to navigation; below these rapids the banks 
become gradually elevated. From the red banks of Cape Rouge 
seven miles above Quebec, the shores of the river rise into hills 
and precipices. The Chaudtere River enters six miles above the 
city, the precipitous banks increase in height and the eager 
stranger catches a distant view of the towers and battlements of 
the grand old northern city. 

Before reaching the town, “ Wolfe’s Cove” will be pointed out 
to the left—that memorable spot where the brave commander 
landed his forces under cover of darkness, and, scaling the preci¬ 
pice, fought the memorable battle which changed the destiny of 


200 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


the western empire. The round Martello Towers in advance of 
Ihe defences of the city, on the plains of Abraham, first attract 
attention, and you sweep in full view of the defiant battlements 
and towers which crown the natural walls of Old Quebec—the 
seat of ancient dominion—where jealous nations contended for 
supremacy and shook its rocky throne with the roar and clash of 
contending armies. As you approach the point of landing, the 
grim battlements of the city are upon the left; the growing set¬ 
tlement of Point Levi, the railway terminus at this point, is to 
the right, the fair island of Orleans is just below you, while about 
you, in one of the grandest inland harbors of the world, capable 
of floating at the same time one hundred ships of the line, are 
vessels of every class; the largest ever constructed can float 
under the very walls of the citadel. 

MONTREAL TO QUEBEC, BY RAIL. 

Those who prefer the rail route to a night trip by boat can 
leave the station, Bonaventure street, pass through the “ Victoria 
Bridge,” before described, through St. Lambert’s, Belceil, St. 
Hillaire, St. Hyacinthe with its extensive nunneries and church 
buildings, Brittania Mills, Upton, and New Durham, to Rich¬ 
mond Junction, seventy-six miles from Montreal, where cars are 
taken over the Quebec division, ninety-five miles, to Quebec. 

The old northern capital city is fully described in another 
chapter, and the quaint attractions of the town and historic in¬ 
terest attached to localities about it have made it a centre for 
pleasure travel for the last few years. The city lies about seven 
hundred miles from the Atlantic, and tide-water extends for 
ninety miles above the city, so broad and like an inland sea is 
the great river of the north. 

FROM QUEBEC TO THE SAGUENAY, AND SCENERY OF THE 
SAGUENAY. 

The tourist, in search of health or pleasure, cannot possibly se¬ 
lect any route better calculated to present that peculiar and 
unusual combination, nowhere else found, within limits easily 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


201 


reached, than the one from Quebec to the Saguenay river, down 
the St. Lawrence. 

Leaving Quebec by one of the excellent boats making this trip, 
of the St. Lawrence and Saguenay line of steamers, the journey 
is down the finest portion of the grand St. Lawrence, a distance 
of about one hundred and fifty miles, the great river, in many 
places, being thirty miles in width. 

This water area of 4,000 square miles, is dotted with beautiful 
islands; skirted on the one hand by towns and villages, on the 
other by lofty mountains, and both sides constantly in view, mak¬ 
ing the line of approach one of continued charm. 

On the way down the river, the mouth of the river St. Anne 
will be passed, off the lower extremity of the Island of Orleans. 
This river enters the larger stream through a bold ravine, and 
many ascend the stream for a short distance to the Falls of St. 
Anne, which, with the surroundings, are pleasant and attractive. 

Thirty-six miles below Quebec is a group of six small islands, 
alive with geese, ducks and teal, who make this a breeding place. 

The Quarantine Station at “ Grosse Isle ” deserves a passing 
notice — a lovely spot of itself, quietly sleeping in the great 
river, but a very charnel house in the past, receiving, in the 
time of the famine in Ireland, six thousand emigrants in one 
huge grave. 

The river widens broader and broader as you sail on, as upon a 
vast inland sea, losing sight of either shore. Malbaie, ninety miles 
below Quebec on the north shore, is a halting station and place of 
pleasure resort, Murray Bay being a fashionable watering place, 
and the fine fishing in Murray River much patronized. The river 
here is about twenty miles wide, with tides of nearly twenty feet 
rise. Steaming across to “ Rivi&re du Loup,” on the south shore, 
passengers are landed within six miles of Cacouna. Taking con¬ 
veyance for 

CACOUNA 

you will soon find the extensive and first-class St. Lawrence 
Hall, a house where every comfort essential to pleasant stay 
may be had, where the guest may live in luxurious ease or active 
sporting. 


202 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


St. Lawrence Hall. 

W. F. Sutton, Esq., so well known as the experienced land¬ 
lord of the St. Louis Hotel, in Quebec, is in possession here, and 
guests will find the same gentlemanly qualities displayed here 
that made him so favorably known in the first instance. 

Continuing down the St. Lawrence, on the northern shore, 
Tadousac is reached at the mouth of 



Tadousac Bay, 


that vast and mysterious rock gorge, through which pour the 
unfathomable floods of the mountain-shadowed 

SAGUENAY RIVER, 

the largest affluent of the St. Lawrence, having its source in 
Lake St. John, and a straight course of one hundred and thirty 
miles from the lake to the St. Lawrence. The upper half of its 
course is a series of falls and rapids, navigable only by canoes, 
and flowing through a dense and almost unknown wilderness. 


























NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


203 


The navigable portion of the river will float the largest vessels 
of the world, from its mouth some ninety miles to the head of 
navigation, and has been described as a perfectly straight, yawn¬ 
ing gulf, torn for the whole distance in the grey mica schist rising 
on either hand in precipitous cliffs whose bases rest in unknown 
depths—a panorama of locky walls and precipices—“no shel¬ 
tered nooks nor coves, no fertile beaches, nowhere a margin for 
foot to rest upon.” The continuous ridges on either hand rise to 
an elevation of 1,000 to 1,500 feet, and often more. The wonder- 
lul capes— Eternity and Trinity— rear their heads to an 



Cape Trinity. 


altitude of 1,800 feet, and, at their base, the river has a depth of 
six hundred fathoms. This whole route is traversed by daylight; 
the boats are, in all respects, first-class, and nothing is wanting to 
secure the comfort of passengers, as promised in the advertised 
route. 

The largest ships may ride in the immense depth of these 
waters. The sights are never to be forgotten—bold, barren, for¬ 
bidding and awful. The discharge of a cannon on shipboard, 

























204 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


between the bare walls of rock, is said to crash back in echoes 
which no one could wish to have repeated, one such sensation 
sufficing for a lifetime. 

The scenery is aptly spoken of by a writer as “ a region of 
primeval grandeur, where art has done nothing and nature every¬ 
thing; where, at a single bound, civilization is left behind, and 
nature stands in unadorned majesty; where Alps on Alps arise; 
where, over unfathomable depths, through mountain gorges, the 
steamer ploughs the dark flood on which no sign of animal life 
appears.” 



Ha Ha Bay. 


Ha Ha Bay, a quiet and lovely bay, receding from the river 
several miles; a cheerful village, animal life, and facilities for 
amusement are here found, a change most welcome from the 
sombre desolation of the ascent. Lake St. John, in which the 
river has its sdurce, receives the flow of eleven large rivers, and 
innumerable smaller streams, from the vast water-shed and in¬ 
terminable forests surrounding it, but discharges all its waters by 
this wonderful stream through miles of wild and unnavigable 
floods. 















NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAYEL. 


205 


Statue Point and Les Tableux are noted gems of scenery on 
the river, a perpendicular rock below Ha Ha Bay, at the termina¬ 
tion of a great plateau, three hundred feet wide and six hundred 
feet in height. The village of Chicoutimi is at the outlet uniting 
Lake Kenokami with the Saguenay. It is at the head of naviga¬ 
tion. An extensive lumber business is transacted here; the 
village is ancient, and has about live hundred inhabitants. 

TADOUSAC, 

at the mouth of the Saguenay, has a fine hotel which is excellently 
kept, and, in connection, all kinds of amusements for visitors. 
The bathing is very superior. It is a post of the Hudson Bay 
Company, who have establishments here of considerable im¬ 
portance. Here was the residence of P6re Marquette, who 
explored the Mississippi valley. The venerable church is two 
and a half centuries old. This was one of the first places on the 
river fortified by the French. The first permanent stone building 
erected, at any northern locality on the continent, was here built. 

We are not competent to write of this desolately grand and 
awfully majestic region with the intelligent criticism ol the scien¬ 
tific or the enthusiasm of the geologist. Ere long, some one, 
equal to the task, will explore its grandly dismal reaches, bring¬ 
ing to bear upon its wonderful characteristics the light of science, 
while, by a wild and nomadic life, in that unexplored continent 
around and beyond its sources, a volume of travel shall result, 
more interesting in its revelations of northern wonders than are 
the charming works of Du Chaillu or the mysterious journeys of 
the lamented Livingstone, in other and more distant lands. 

Few realize the vastness of that wild and almost limitless north, 
stretching from habitable limits up to the icy realms of the polar 
regions, yet to be made familiar by exploration and charming 
narrative, and to which one of the grandest passages will be the 
forbidding pass through which the inky floods of the unmeasured 
Saguenay find outlet to the sea. 

Salmon fishing in the tributaries of the Saguenay is the favorite 
sport of visitors—the salmon and the seal are almost the only liv¬ 
ing denizens of the solitary stream. 



Point L’Ilet, Tadousac. 



Mouth of Saguenay and Point Marguerite, Tadousac. 









































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


207 


From this trip the tourist will return with the feeling that he 
has looked upon an aspect of nature more novel than any other 
upon the continent—a vast landscape and water course in the 
rough, with all the touches of beauty and elaborations of ani¬ 
mated nature left out—a creation vast and grand, but incomplete 
—a chaos of forms and material—the skeleton ribs and bones of 
a highland region, left bare and bleaching by arrested creative 
forces. 

Take, by all means, this trip, not in expectation of finding a 
smiling paradise and lurking beauty, but its reverse—the barely 
grand and simply majestic. 

From Tadousac you can return by boat to Quebec, or by rail 
from Riviere du Loup to Point Levi, there connecting with the 
system of railways threading every portion of the Canadas and 
New England. The boat route gives by far the greatest variety 
of scenery and experience to the traveler, who has an eye to the 
picturesque and novel in nature. 


208 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 


THE 

ST. LAWRENCE AND SAGUENAY 

LINE OF STEAMERS, 

PLYING BETWEEN 

Quebec, the River Saguenay, and the Watering Places of the 
Lower St. Lawrence, 

Is composed of the First Class Sea Going Passenger Steamers “ SAGUE¬ 
NAY,” «ST. LAWRENCE,” and *• UNION.” 


From about the 20th of June to the 10th of September, one of the above 
Steamers will leave the St. Andrew’s wharf daily (Sundays-and Mondays 
excepted) at seven o’clock a.m., on the arrival of the Montreal boat. 

Accommodation IPirst Class. 

Charges Moderate. 

Tickets for sale at all principal Ticket Offices in the States and Canada, 
and at the Office of the Company, St. Andrew’s wharf, Quebec. 

For further information, apply to 

A. GABOURY, 

. Secretary. 


TABLE OF DISTANCES 

ON THE 


St. Lawrence and Saguenay Route. 




J3Q 









_*■ 


i £ 











n. « 

Jk aS 


P 










>> 

•u 






Quebec, 

St. Paul’s Bay, 

0 

ai 

2 S 
w s 

®s . 
C % 

Qi (L 
^ ■ 

A- 

• 

03 

p 


A 



00 

55 



• r-t W 

>> h-; 

p 

cl 

G3 

cn 



Eboulements, 
Murray Bay, 

il 

lb 

11 

27 

66 

16 

82 

•»*** 

O 

C3 

U 

UJ 

P 

o 

03 

g 


Kivi&re du Loup, 

30 

57 

46 

3u 

112 


' 'O 

CS 

w 

•*-* 

• 

Cacouna, passengers 
land at R. du Loup 

Tadousac, 

Ha! Ha! Bay, 

22 

63 

79 

53 

68 

36 

52 

6 

22 

118 

28 

H 

134 

C3 

ffl 

P 

o 

CJ2 

P 

o 

s 

<2 

151 

140 

124 

94 

100 

72 

206 


5 

Chicoutimi, 

28 

179 

168 

102 

122 

128 

100 

28 

234 

Bimouski, 


23 

112 

96 

66 





178 


Note. The distance of any place in above table, from Quebec, will be 
found at the head of the column under its name. Tne distance between 
other points is found by taking the name of one place in left hand column 
and following the line to its intersection with the other name required. 




















Take the Montreal and Boston Air Line, which is the Great Northern Tourist and Pleasure Travel Route! 



PASSING 

Lake Winnipesaukee, 


THE 


WHITE MOUNTAINS, 


AND OTHER 

MAGNIFICENT SCENERY! 

BY DAYLIGHT FOR 

Montreal & Quebec. 

This office is the Headquarters of the 

SAGUENAY LINE OF STEAMERS 

IN BOSTON. 


The Ticket Seller in this office has had 
six years experience in Canada with America! 
Pleasure Travel; has been to all points of interest 
throughout the country, and will be able to give 
the most reliable information. 

Before selecting your route call at the 

GENERAL OFFICES, 

BOSTON, 240 WASHINGTON STREET. 

NEW YORK, 175 BROADWAY. 
MONTREAL, 202 ST. JAMES STREET. 
QUEBEC, OPP. ST. LOUIS HOTEL. 


N. P. LOVERING, 

G. T. A. 


G. LEVE, 

Gen. Agent. 


Leave Boston & Lowell Depot at 8 A.M. and G P. M. Arrive at 3Iontreal at 9.20 P. M. and 9 A. M. 


























































Chicago & Northwestern 



HI 

:0^gogSE_ 

j J W « d J* ^ W* ◄ K d S ^ «j 

«ja'aaad^^BBSs^«55 




H 


u 


.2 c 


Omaha Bridge—On Chicago & 














































NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 


209 


ROUTE. 


MONTREAL AND BOSTON AIR LINE, THE GREAT 
NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL ROUTE. 


A Bird’s Eye View of the Route. 


Tlie completion of the South-Eastern Railway, from Newport, 
Vt., to Montreal, forms the finishing link in an air line railway 
route from Boston to Montreal, and places before both business 
men and pleasure travelers unprecedented and unrivalled advan¬ 
tages for travel between the commercial centres of New England 
and the New Dominion. To the advantages of the shortest dis¬ 
tance and the quickest time, without which no line can success¬ 
fully compete for travel in this age, is added the special charm of 
passing through the most beautiful and picturesque portions of 
New England, or, indeed, of the American continent. 

Leaving Boston, upon the Boston, Lowell & Nashua Railroad, 
from the largest and finest passenger station in New England, the 
traveler enjoys a ride through the charming suburban cities and 
towns of Cambridge, Somerville, Medford and Winchester, passes 
through Lowell, the far-famed “ city of spindles,” up the busy and 
cultivated valley of the Merrimack, and over the Concord Rail¬ 
road through Nashua, Manchester and Suncook, the leading 
manufacturing places in. New Hampshire, to Concord. Here the 
Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad is taken, and after passing 
along the shores of the beautiful Lake Winnipesaukee, through 
the Pemigewasset Valley, and almost under the towering cliffs of 
the White Mountains, the valley of the Upper Connecticut is 
reached at Weils River, Vt. From Wells River to Newport, Vt., 
over the Passumpsic Railroad and through the Connecticut and 
Passumpsic Valleys, there is a rapid succession of beautiful river, 
mountain and lake views, which are nowhere excelled upon this 
continent, and which are scarcely second to the finest natural 
scenery of the Old World. 

The beautiful farming and manufacturing villages nestling 
among the mountains and on the fertile banks of the swift-running 
streams, with the background of rugged mountain scenery, form 
a picture which none but the Omnipotent Artist could paint, and 

14 




210 


NORTHERN PLEASURE TRATEL. 


each successive mile is only a new revelation of the magnificent 
grandeur of Northern New England scenery. 

At Newport there is the charming Lake Memphremagog, the 
queen ot Vermont lakes, and lovers of the picturesque in nature 
will find a longer or a shorter tarry at the hospitable Memphre¬ 
magog House, with sails upon the lake, and walks and drives 
about it, a most delightful and invigorating experience. 

From Newport to Montreal the route lies over the recently 
completed and opened South-Eastern Kailway, which skirts along 
the shores of Lake Memphremagog, in sight of Jay Peak and 
other lofty mountains, and through the most attractive inland 
portions of Lower Canada, until the world-renowned Victoria 
Bridge is entered and crossed, and the beautilul city of Montreal, 
the commercial metropolis of the Dominion, is reached. 

This brief reference to some of the mote notable features of the 
natural scenery along the route, gives but a faint idea of the 
wealth of picturesque beauty which nature has lavished upon the 
country traversed by this line of roads, and no one has seen New 
England scenery at its best until he has passed through these 
valleys and along these lake shores and mountain sides, which 
have been hastily sketched above. The advantages ol cheap ex¬ 
cursion rates lor such a line of travel as this, will easily commend 
themselves alike to those who travel for business or pleasure, and 
when it is added that arrangements have been made for cheap 
excursion rates to the White Mountains, over the White Moun¬ 
tains Railroad to the Fabyan House, and up the famous Mount 
Washington Railway, to Niagara Falls, Quebec, the Gulf of St. 
Lawrence, the Saguenay, the Thousand Isles, Lakes George and 
Champlain, and the Hudson River, the advantages of this line 
over any and all others will be easily apparent. 

Two through trains will run daily during the season, between 
Boston and Montreal, one leaving in the morning and the other 
in the early evening, and all the trains will be equipped with 
Miller platforms and Westinghouse brakes, and will be furnished 
with Pullman cars, parlor or sleeping. The day trains will stop 
for dinner at the elegant and well-kept Pemigewasset House, at 
Plymouth, N. H., and for supper at the equally favorably known 
Memphremagog House, at Newport, Vt., and the managers of 
the line feel warranted in saying that no other line of travel in 
the country combines so many and so desirable features as this 
one, which they have now opened between the chief cities of 
New England and the Dominion of Canada. The Boston Office 
is at 240 Washington street, and will be in charge of a gentleman, 
who for the last six years has sold tickets to American travelers. 
The Montreal Office is at 202 St. James street. 


BOOK SECOND. 


GREAT 

THE 

NORTHWEST 


AND THE 


TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 





CHAPTER I. 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


The picturesque wildness of Northern New England with the 
rock-ribbed hills, limpid lakes and dashing waterfalls, which 
have an unfading charm for the thousands who gather there from 
every section of our wide domain, and from the far off nations 
beyond the sea, is no longer the sole attraction for those who 
search for the wildly picturesque in the northern regions ot the 
Republic. 

Facilities for travel have been so extended, the desire for 
change is so universal, that, with each return of the pleasure 
season, thousands seek respite from monotonous toil and release 
from the enervating effects of tropical climates in that new and 
almost limitless region known as the Great Northwest. 

The tourist and the traveler of to-day sometimes turns away 
from the charms of older landscapes, and treading the pathway of 
growing empire, studies that vast landscape and looks with ad¬ 
miration on that grand panorama which Nature spreads in reaches 
so vast, limitless and fair; not measured by roods or acres, but 
lying in wide rolling billows of green, cut by streams that 
traverse a continent, by railway lines that span areas wider than 
the extent of ancient civilization. 

The great States of the Northwest each pour into the granaries 
and trade-marts of the world those special products which are 
the particular source of wealth in each separate State. Illinois, 





214 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


with its 3,000,000 of population, is a vast grain and stock produc¬ 
ing State. Minnesota, with hardly two decades of development, 
already produces a grain crop which, computed in aggregate, 
staggers the intellect which seeks to comprehend it, and, from its 
more sterile northern portion, sends a harvest of lumber which 
supplies a vast region of timberless plain. Wisconsin lies upon 
the wide belt, which, in its southern portion, smiles with harvests 
and reaches to the northern region of pine from which immense 
supplies of lumber go to all parts of the country, and extends to 
the mineral regions of the northern lakes. Iowa, spanning the 
reach of green and fruitful table land which stretches from the 
Mississippi westward to the turbid Missouri, yields to the tiller of 
its fertile soil a rich harvest, and sends to the markets of the 
world its cattle, not “ from a thousand hills,” but from its great 
plains. 

The peninsular State of Michigan adds to its enormous fruit 
crop and grain and stock-raising interest, the product of ores 
from the northern lake region. To one unused to the importance 
of this interest it may seem incredible that one line of railway— 
the Chicago & Northwestern—have three thousand cars on their 
northern line for the exclusive transportation of ores. 

Reaching over this great tract of fertile country, larger in area 
than the empires that formerly ruled the world, the railway 
system throws an iron net-work of circulation—the veins and ar¬ 
teries of trade and commerce—over which speed the life currents 
of traffic. 

Were we to select, among the rival lines, one best illustrating 
the far-reaching extent of country traversed, and interests sub¬ 
served and developed, the network of railway lines, under the 
management of the Chicago & Northwestern Railway Company, 
might best illustrate our purpose. Diverging from Chicago—the 
heart of this northwestern region—equipped with every improve¬ 
ment known to the mechanical world, grasping the vital forces of 
nature’s lavish breast and giving facilities for swift and profitable 
interchange of commodities, tapping the undeveloped region 
lying far to the west, full of possible riches, and waiting the touch 
of intelligent industry, the lash of enterprise, to roll back plenti¬ 
ful harvests or rich yield of metallic values to the pioneer who 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


215 


dares to enter and possess tlie land, sucli an organization becomes 
a power in the business world, an agent of civilization and enter¬ 
prise not to be ignored. 

The machinery necessary for the operation of an extensive net¬ 
work of railways, combined under one management, is so exten¬ 
sive that one unused to the extent of interests subserved by a 
great railway line, or network of lines combined in one, will 
hardly comprehend the full extent of labor and responsibility 
required in the details of management or the capacity for organi¬ 
zation and control necessary to insure success. Twelve thousand 
five hundred men are employed in the various departments of the 
road, and are upon the pay-rolls of the company. Three hundred 
and seventy-five locomotives furnish the motive power. Two 
thousand and three miles of road are operated on the different 
divisions. One hundred and eight passengers took the initial 
stages of a trip around the world during the past year, going to 
San Francisco by this route, thence by Pacific Mail Steamship 
Company’s boats to China. 

A passenger and freight business which reaches so far away 
from the base of operations requires agencies in China, Japan, 
Australia and the Sandwich Islands. 

Radiating from Chicago, the network of roads that here con¬ 
verge at this natural centre, gives full supply and accommodation 
to residents of suburban villages and towns, returning the farm 
products in exchange for goods and supplies. This surrounding 
country within one, hundred miles of Chicago is in a state of 
development indicating progress more complete than many sup¬ 
pose. Manufacturing, though of a different class from that 
carried on in eastern cities, covers a wide range of productiQn. 
The great amount of farm machinery, carriages, building mate¬ 
rials and iron machinery and utensils needed for the inland trade 
is produced largely in the cities and towns of the west. At Elgin, 
on the Rockford & Freeport branch of the Chicago & North¬ 
western Railroad, the manufacture of American watches of every 
pattern known to modern manufacture has grown to be the lead¬ 
ing business of the flourishing town which has grown up here at 
this point. 


CHAPTER II. 


TO OMAHA AND CALIFORNIA. 


The traveler who leaves Chicago for the trip to the Pacific 
shore, or for the grand trip around the world will go by the air 
line, crossing the fertile belt of country lying between Chicago 
and Clinton, Iowa. The Freeport Branch diverges at Turner’s 
Junction for Belvidere, Rockford and Freeport. Geneva, Dixon 
and Fulton are important points on this route, across the Garden 
State of the Union, and 

CLINTON, IOWA, 

is the terminus of the Illinois division of this Road—a city of 
8,000 inhabitants—an important point for lumber and other classes 
of manufacture and an enterprising trade centre. The construc¬ 
tion and repair shops of the Iowa division of the Chicago & 
N#rthwestern Railway are located here and $50,000 is dispensed 
each month for skilled labor. At this point connection is made 
with the Chicago, Clinton & Dubuque Railroad to Dubuque, 
thence over the Chicago, Dubuque & Minnesota Railroad to 
McGregor and La Crosse. 

Proceeding westward from Clinton connection is made at 
Cedar Rapids with the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & Minnesota 
Railroad for Vinton, Waterloo, Cedar Falls and Independence, 
through the Valley of the Cedar River, one of the finest and most 
fertile river valleys in the world. 




THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


217 


On this Iowa Division of this Railway line are several important 
points, and the tourist cannot fail to be interested in the country 
through which the line of Road passes. In Cedar Rapids are 
some of the largest Pork Packing establishments in the country, 
and in the fertile tract surrounding the city are several Norwe¬ 
gian settlements; these hardy settlers make the production of 
grape wine a specialty, and have brought the processes of manu¬ 
facturing wines to a good degree of perfection. 

Continuing westward, at the geographical centre of the State, 
the fine town of Marshall, with its permanent business streets, 
commodious and ornamental school and public buildings, is the 
point of connection with the Central Railroad of Iowa, giving a 
northward connection across the State with the system of rail¬ 
ways in Minnesota, and southward with all the southern lines of 
Iowa and Missouri. 

Just west of Marshall, the first Indian encampment seen on 
your western tour is found, near Tama. This sorry remnant of a 
fading race preserves many of the characteristics of nomadic life, 
and, to one unused to Indian life and peculiarities, this oasis of 
savage life in the midst of civilization is a place of interest. The 
next important place on this line that we shall notice is at Ames, 
where connection is made with the Des Moines & Minnesota Rail¬ 
road. Near this fine western village is located the 

State Agricultural College 

and model farm. There are over one hundred students at this in¬ 
stitution, and the management is progressive and efficient, much 
attention is given to the breeding of blooded stock, and to im¬ 
provement in every part of agricultural operations. 

Further westward, at Grand Junction, connection is had with 
the Des Moines Valley Railroad for Fort Dodge; just west of 
Grand Junction the road crosses the divide between the Missis¬ 
sippi and Missouri Rivers—the highest point of land in the State; 
westward from this divide, the railway follows the valley of the 
Boyer to the Missouri valley at Missouri Valley Junction, con¬ 
necting at that point with the Sioux City & Pacific Railway for 
Sioux City and Yankton—one of the most approved channels for 
reaching the Black Hills country—the future Eldorado ot the 
west. 


218 


THE GftEAT NORTHWEST. 


In crossing so wide a belt of country many peculiarities and 
natural features are observable, not likely to be noticed by the 
passenger whirled over the rolling surface with the speed of 
modern travel. From a point five miles west of Ames to near 
Boone Station, a belt of five or six miles across, such peculiar 
magnetic influences are observable that the electric combination 
locks on the safes of the express and pay department cars can¬ 
not be worked until the region is passed, showing a vein of 
electric force of great power—one of those operations of nature 
of such subtile character as to be known only by the visible 
effects. 

In the valley of the Boyer has been found many wonderful an¬ 
imal remains, teeth of mastadons as large as the amplest family 
Bible or a volume of Webster’s Unabridged. A portion of a 
tusk, six feet in length, forms the arch in the mantelpiece in the 
Superintendent’s office at Boone. It is evidently but about 
three-fifths of the entire tusk and is a regular curve. 

Far back, in primitive periods, it is evident a class of monster 
growth in animal and vegetable development made these smiling 
valleys populous with their elephantine tread and monster 
growth, ere some cooling process of climatic change made the 
rich valleys just then emerging from the floods habitable for man 
and beasts of burden and use. It would seem that nature had 
her sportive period, when the animal creation was hugely gro¬ 
tesque in proportion and outline, wallowing in rank forests, huge 
vegetable growths, and sporting in the semi-solid crust of the 
new earth, giving way in time to the useful genera more in keep¬ 
ing with the wants and needs of men. 

From Missouri Valley Junction the road follows down the Mis¬ 
souri valley to Council Bluffs— the old Indian Council 
ground. The earliest explorers here held a Council with the In¬ 
dian tribes early in the present century. The Mormons here 
made a settlement some thirty years ago. The place has now 
some 12,000 people and is the county seat of that fertile and ex¬ 
tensive agricultural county, Pottawattomie. The city lies on a 
plateau of the western bank, some three miles from the bluffs to 
the river. From the transfer grounds at this point the Missouri 
is crossed by the “ Great Iron Bridge ” to 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


219 


OMAHA. 

The entire line of railway passed over to reach this point from 
Chicago is laid with steel rails and furnished with all the appli¬ 
ances, conveniences and safeguards of modern travel; riding over 
these wide prairies in parlor cars, furnished with all the con¬ 
veniences which ingenious rivalry has devised, journeying is 
robbed of many of its heretofore inseparable hardships, and what 
was once exhausting and laborious becomes rest and pastime. 

This truly western city, formerly the capital and now the chief 
city of the new State of Nebraska, is on an elevated plateau fifty 
feet and more above the river level at high water. It is the east¬ 
ern terminus of the Union Pacific Railway, and has some twenty 
thousand inhabitants, with an ample plan of streets, giving 
almost unlimited facilities for building. Street cars reach im¬ 
portant points in the city, and there is an air of activity and brisk 
progressive life about the town not observable in older cities. 

The first attempt at settlement was in 1854. The Government 
building, of Ohio freestone, is a fine structure, costing over 
$300,000. The school building, on the highest land within city 
limits, is an imposing structure, and from its elevated location 
and peculiar architecture, is a landmark for miles. The erection 
of this, one of the finest school buildings in the west, is highly 
creditable to the public spirit of this community. 



The Grand Central Hotel, 





220 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST, 


one of the largest and best hotels west of the Mississippi, or we 
might say in the west, is under the management of George 
Thrall, Esq., proprietor. This house is creditable alike to the 
efficiency of the manager and the public spirit and liberality of 
the company of citizens who erected it. 

Smelting works, an extensive trade, and the shops, offices and 
warehouses of the Union Pacific Railway, add to the importance 
of the place as a business centre. The military barracks here 
accommodate 1,000 men. 

At Omaha the Chicago & North western Railroad connects with 
the Burlington & Missouri River Railroad in Nebraska for Lin¬ 
coln, the State capital, and southwestern points. The Omaha & 
Northwestern Railroad, and the Omaha & Plattsmouth branch 
are both in operation. 

The important transcontinental connection is with the Union 
Pacific Railroad at Omaha. With this journey across smiling 
plains, desert reaches of hundreds of miles, wild ravines and 
lakes of unknown depth, shadowed by mountains severely grand 
in their grim and majestic outlines, we must deal quickly, and the 
material which should, and richly might, fill a volume, must be 
condensed upon a page. The valley of the Elkhorn River gives 
you the first glimpse of the better lands of Nebraska, and thrifty 
settlers have not been slow to avail themselves of the natural 
advantages. 

Passing through the flourishing young city of Fremont—a 
business and railway centre—the way is up the broad valley of 
the Platte River. Along this valley went the overland wagon 
trains of anti-railroad days, and where the red man often disputed 
the right of the pioneer to invade the unbroken possession of his 
hunting grounds. 

Of the stations and scenery along this portion of the route 
space forbids even mention. 

NORTH PLATTE CITY 

is located so as to be the natural outlet for the North Platte 
country and the Big Horn and Powder River valley, along which 
railways are projected which are to tap one of the most fertile 
sections of the “ far west.” 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


221 


Time and space fails when we mention even by name the stations 
of this line. The once important Julesburg—a point of departure 
for Colorado, New Mexico, and the South— Sidney, a military 
and an eating and water station on this line ot railroad, with 
Prairie Dog City and its thousands of canine inhabitants, who 
appear to be as happy as residents of any city ought to be where 
poor laws, election riots and tax-lists are unknown, are noticea¬ 
ble point*. As you near the eastern boundary of Wyoming the 
great grass valleys are entered, to be the great grazing region of 
the continent, at Cheyenne, which is the largest town in the 
eastern half of the Union Pacific line. Close connection is made 
with the Denver Pacific line for Denver, Greeley, Golden, Black 
Hawk and the Denver and Rio Grande country. Passengers 
reaching this point by the Chicago & Northwestern Railroad and 
connections, have a view of the Rocky and the whole chain of 
Colorado mountains, while by southern lines of approach they 
see only the level reaches of plain. Cheyenne is the point of de¬ 
parture for forts Laramie, Russell, Fetterman, Casper, 
Reno and Phil. Kearney. 

The Denver Pacific Railroad is the key to the mining region 
and the wonderful Rocky Mountain scenery of this medite- 
ranean land. Denver is six thousand feet above sea level and 
is fast becoming a health resort for the south and southwest. In 
the dry air of this elevated region those afflicted with pulmonary 
diseases or reduced by the excessive heats of southern latitudes 
find all the luxuries and conveniences of eastern cities, a popula¬ 
tion of 15,000 souls and all the public improvements and modern 
conveniences for entertainment and travel to be had in any city 
of its size. Long’s Peak, Pike’s Peak and the great Colorado 
Parks with the range of lesser summits are all best reached from 
this point. A whole chapter would be insufficient to describe the 
wonders of the Colorado country. 

But a large army of travelers, to whom time is valuable, will 
not be drawn from the main line by any attractions however 
novel, but will pass on through the territory of Wyoming. 
Sherman, the most elevated station on the transcontinental line, 
is 8,242 feet above the level of the sea. At this altitude one 
whose lungs are not perfect will, no doubt, have difficulty in 


222 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST, 


breathing the dry and rarified air of this high region. Loneli¬ 
ness and desolation will oppress those to whom populous activity 
are essential to enjoyment, if they tarry in these “ high places ” 
of the country. Game and fish are here in abundance, but the 
hunter must take care that he himself is not hunted by some of 
the wilder species of game. 

The railway line is between the Black Hills and the Rocky 
Mountain chain from this point for several hours westward, over 
dizzy trestle work and yawning ravines, in sight of sentinel peaks 
of distant mountains, over reaches of sage brush and saline plains 
that seem interminable, past “ the thousand mile tree,” the train 
speeds westward to 

OGDEN, 

the point of union for the two great divisions of the great transit 
line to the Pacific slope. We are now in Utah, the home of the 
Mormons. Ogden is mostly Mormon, and 

SALT LAKE CITY, 

distant thirty-six miles, is reached by the Utah Central Railroad. 
This far famed home of a far famed and peculiar people is located 
at the foot of the Wasatch Mountains, in the gorges of which the 
ice and snows of years outlast and defy all summer heats. It is a 
quaint and peculiar city, the home of a peculiar people. Many 
of the buildings are constructed of sunburned brick, giving it the 
appearance of a foreign rather than an American city. 

The Temple and The Tabernacle are immense structures of 
peculiar architectural design. This isolated city of the Latter- 
Day Saints is the centre of immense mining interests. 

The Walker House 

is a hotel where all can have the best of accommodations, the 
management giving patrons all that guests can require in the 
way of entertainment, with best of rooms, fare and attendance. 
Elias Hotchkiss, Esq., late of the St. James Hotel, New York 
City, is the managing agent, and the many visitors to this quaint 




*• 














































































































































































































































































































224 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST 


city, surrounded by most impressive scenery, will here be hos¬ 
pitably and royally entertained. The 

GREAT SALT LAKE 

itself is one of the wonders of the far west, of which space for¬ 
bids description. 

Returning to the main line, and still pressing westward over 
the Central Pacific line, every league presenting some feature of 
interest to the stranger, Corinne is reached, whence stage lines 
lead to the mines and Great National Park in Montana, and the 
wonderful region of the Yellowstone. Still on and across, along 
the valley of the Humboldt, that central plateau, lying east of 
the Sierra Nevadas, is crossed, with its canyons and palisades, 
over what exploration has left of the “ Great American Desert,” 
till, at Reno, connection is made with the Virginia & Truckee 
Railroad for Virginia City, Carson City, Gold Hill, Wa¬ 
shoe City and Steamboat Springs. These towns are the 
enterprising mining settlements of Nevada. The great Com¬ 
stock Lode is in this vicinity, the total production of which 
within the last seventeen years is fast rolling up a grand total of 
$200,000,000. Truckee is the staging point for Donner Lake, 
Lake Tahoe, the Sierra Valley, and the fishing and hunting 
region lying thereabout. 

Going westward from Reno, the highest point on the Sierra 
Nevada Mountains is at Summit, where the railway reaches the 
altitude of 7,017 feet above the sea. The peaks of the range 
tower to 3,000 feet above this elevation. From this high dividing 
ridge the train seems to pass through miles of snow-sheds, so fre¬ 
quent and extensive are these projecting structures on this section 
of the line. 

The view of the Great American Canyon, the tunnels and 
snow-sheds, and the rounding of Cape Horn are among the 
peculiar attractions of this part of the route. From Cape Horn 
you look down a sheer descent of more than half a mile into the 
waters of the American River. The overpowering grandeur of 
this outlook down into the yawning abyss cannot be made ap¬ 
parent by the most vivid word painting. 


CHAPTER IT, 


THE ST. PAUL AND MINNEAPOLIS LINE. 


This through line from Chicago to Minneapolis, Duluth and 
the Northern Pacific region opens up to the lover of the pictur¬ 
esque some of the grandest scenery of the northwest. 



Interior View of Palace Car. 


15 






























226 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST 


The Pullman Palace Cars, 

running through over this line, are not excelled by the sleepers 
on any other route. The line runs via Janesville, Madison (the 
capital city of Wisconsin), Elroy and Eau Claire. Two through 
express trains pass each week day over the entire line. 

MADISON, WIS., 


is a fine substantial capital city, and is located among that beauti¬ 
ful cluster of lakes which gem the rolling prairie scene, made 
still more lovely by the luxuriance of the forest trees and the aids 
which art and good taste have lent to make still more attractive 
the picturesque surroundings of this western capital. The 
peculiar attractiveness of the surrounding country and the refine¬ 
ment and culture of society in this political centre will make this 
central city the favorite resort of the substantial and intelligent 
citizen for residence. 



The Park House. 































THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


227 


The Park House 

has accommodations for over two hundred patrons, and M. H. 
Irish, Esq., is the gentlemanly proprietor, who will give to guests 
all that can reasonably be expected or desired. 

The Vilas House, 

O. P. Parsons & Co., proprietors, is also a favorite resort for 
those who have shared the hospitality of the liberal managers. 

If you tarry for a day or two here at the lake-surrounded capi¬ 
tal you will find no end of fine drives or of opportunity for 
sporting. The grounds of the State University, one mile from 
the capital, are especially worthy of a visit for the beauty of 
location and the fine views afforded. A sail upon the pure lakes, 
a drive to points of view overlooking the fair region of which the 
city is the centre, or a few days of sporting on the lakes will 
amply repay all who enjoy quiet beauty and a landscape made 
up of blending diversities of scene. 

The route to Madison from Chicago is through that network 
of western villages which have outgrown the crudeness and an¬ 
gularity of the far western town, and have not yet put on the 
straight-laced primness of the New England village. Two 
daily lines of palace cars leave Chicago (morning and even¬ 
ing), leaving summer tourists at the various pleasure resorts 
along the line. About thirty-five miles north of Madison, in a 
rent or gorge of the Wisconsin River Bluffs, surrounded by 
rocky walls of nearly four hundred feet in height is the 

devil’s lake, 

surcharged, not with fire and brimstone, or hint of things Sa¬ 
tanic, as the name might indicate, but with limpid waters locked 
in a rugged rim of stone. The lake abounds in fish. 


228 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 



Chicago & Northwestern Railway Crossing, Devil’s 
Lake, Wis. 




























THE GREAT NORTHWEST, 


229 


The particular objects of interest in this weird region space will 
not allow us to describe even by name. The Devil’s Footstool 
and Pyramid Rock are masses of rock of peculiar outline. 



Devil’s Footstool, Devil’s Lake, Wis. 
























230 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST, 



Pyramid Kcck, Devil’s Lake, Wis. 


The lake covers about forty acres, enclosed by the high pali¬ 
sades of rock which have every appearance of an old ruin—a 
cold, bare and clean circular wall of cubical blocks of black ig¬ 
neous or volcanic rock, from four to ten feet dimensions, formin 
the shore and reaching to the summit. The lake is approached 
by a ravine on the one side, through which the railway enters and 
finds exit by a similar gap in the opposite wall. A fertile shelf 
of soil upon the shore is utilized as a grapery, and the Kirkwood 
Wine Cellars are excavated in this wall of cubical masses. 


bfi 








































THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


231 



The Cliff House 


is at the northern end of the lake, the railway passing between 
the house and the shore. P. B. Parson >. & Co., who are also 
proprietors of the Yilas House at Madison, have this in charge, 

































































































232 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


and patrons tell of immaculate housekeeping, sailing in the little 
steamer upon the lake, of water pure as quartz crystal, of the 
vineyard, of soft airs and incomparable sunsets; all of which, if 
you doubt, go see for yourself and find that the half was not 
told. The gentlemanly keepers of the hotel can be addressed at 
Baraboo or at Madison, Wis. 

For fifty miles west of Baraboo valley the mountainous district 
of Wisconsin is crossed, giving scenery as romantic as upon the 
line of the Pennsylvania Central. Continuing on, the West 
Wisconsin Division commences at Elroy, and Black River 
Falls is the first place of note reached—a flourishing western 
town. Eau Claire is an enterprising lumber town—a beautiful 
cluster of connected villages in the sterile pine barrens of the 
section. So noticeably marked is the change from the barren 
surroundings to the beauty of the town that the western orator 
likened it to the city of Damascus as viewed from the hill-tops by 
the Mohamedan prophet; a comparison not unlikely to suggest 
itself to any appreciative mind. On this section of the line, near 
Eau Claire and Menomonee, the famous Wisconsin pinery is 
crossed—the source of wealth to hundreds of manufacturers and 
operators. 

After crossing the St. Croix River, at its outlet from St. Croix 
Lake, the line debouches and enters the Queen City of the North¬ 
west, St. Paul’s, over high hills, and you are within the Lake 
State of the Northwest. Minnesota abounds in lakes varying 
from the great lakes of the northern section, a score of miles in 
extent to the numberless smaller lakes covering scarcely an 
acre. All are filled with purest of water. 

The central portions of the State after leaving the bluffs, that 
stand in rugged line along the west bank of the Mississippi, is a 
wide stretch of prairie extending far on to Dakota. The health¬ 
fulness of the climate, especially for those afflicted with pul¬ 
monary troubles, is acknowledged. The distance from any large 
body of water relieves the air from that load of chilling moisture 
which, in many localities, cut like a knife the sensitive mem¬ 
branes of the lungs. Over these prairies the westerly winds 
sometimes sweep with great force, and sudden changes are fre¬ 
quent, but the dryness of the atmosphere prevents the injurious 
effects of the sudden changes in the damp airs of the east. 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


233 


ST. PAUL. 

The approach to this northern city is along the line of perpen¬ 
dicular white sandstone bluff, at once sublime, picturesque and 
novel, and cousidered by travelers as among the grandest of 
American views. The road passes the cavern and subterranean 
lake known as “ Carver’s Cave,” called by the Indians Wokau- 
tee-be — the Dwelling of the Gods. “ The entrance is about five 
feet high; the arch within is about fifteen feet high and thirty 
broad; near the entrance is a lake of clear crystal water, the bot¬ 
tom of sandstone; the depth varies, the deepest yet found being 
thirty feet; it extends to an unknown distance. On the arch are 
hieroglyphics, very rudely done. At and near the entrance are 
pillar-shaped precipices and rugged bluffs, looking like deserted 
old castles thrown in ruin. On these bluffs is the Indian Mound, 
in which the Dakota tribes buried the bones of their dead, assem¬ 
bling here once a year for this purpose.” 

“ The site of St. Paul is a series of four plateaux rising in steps 
from the river; the first forms the levee, and is occupied by rail¬ 
road tracks, warehouses, depots, and offices; the second and 
third, with but slight difference in their elevation, about half a 
mile in width, and stretching for miles to the southwest along 
and above the river, form the main expanse, on which the busi¬ 
ness and much of the residence portion of the city rests; while 
the highest encircles this busy scene of business activity and active 
life.” Few cities have such perfect drainage as this peculiar 
locality affords, and statistics of mortality show no healthier point 
in the whole area of the States. The drive on Dayton’s Bluff 
gives an outlook that the stranger will remember with pleasure. 

Fishing in the lakes, which lie within easy radius of St. Paul, is 
a favorite pastime. The hotels are well managed,' and afford 
good accommodations, and elegant drives may be taken from the 
city to 

MINNEAPOLIS, 

the Falls of St. Anthony, and that lovely waterfall so musical 
in the name even, the fair Minnehaha, the waters of which 

“ Flash and gleam among the oak trees, 

Laugh and leap into the valley.” 


234 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 



The genius of Longfellow has made the name a household word 
throughout the length and breadth of the land. An hour’s ride 
will take you to Lake Minnetonka , one of the fairest lakes on the 
continent, the best locality for camping, hunting and fishing in 
the west. The lake is a series of bays and inlets, with every 
conceivable feature of shore and sweep of outline. 

Minneapolis is 2,150 miles from the Grulf of Mexico, at the Falls 
of St. Anthony. This fall of seventy-five feet with a mile of 
rapids gives almost unlimited facility for the manufacture of lum¬ 
ber in the rough, and, in all the forms in which it is worked. The 
supply is from the pineries to the north, and great rafts are 
floated down to the monster mills which line the falls. 

Perhaps it is on account of the plentiful supply of building 
material at this point, as well as to the enterprise of the people, 
that strangers are surprised at the beauty and apparent cost of 
the business blocks, public buildings and private residences of 
this northern city. 


Nicollet House, Minneapolis, Minn. 


The requisite of a first-class house is not wanting in Minneap¬ 
olis. Messrs. McKibbin & Vosbury are the proprietors, and 




















THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


235 


have added to the beautiful architectural plan and interior con¬ 
veniences of the house, the still more essential requisite of 
capacity to manage all the departments of so extensive an estab¬ 
lishment so as to give to patrons the best possible entertainment. 
Guests will find this to be one of the best of the hotels for which 
the leading cities of the West are becoming noted since the tide 
of travel moving westward and the small army of tourists who 
annually visit this region have made first-class accommodations 
necessary. A stay at this excellent house for a time, with trips 
to the lakes and the surrounding country, cannot fail to be a sea¬ 
son of pleasure to all. 

Over the Wisconsin Division of the Chicago & Northwestern 
Railroad the entire supply of the Hudson Bay Company and the 
Red River country passes to the north, and the return of pro¬ 
ducts is an item of transportation of growing importance. As 
surely as time flies a great business is to be done along this 
northern line of the projected Northern Pacific, though for the 
present hope may be deferred to many who formed extravagant 
hopes of impossible progress in that direction. 


CHAPTER III. 



FROM CHICAGO TO MILWAUKEE, SHEBOYGAN, 
MANITOWOC, OR FOND DU LAC, OSHKOSH 
GREEN BAY, ESCANABA, MARQUETTE AND THE 
IRON AND COPPER REGION OF LAKE SUPERIOR. 


The Railway line from Chicago, along the lake shore, is dotted 
with a series of towns and villages, in most of which the hot 
months can be spent with pleasure and the discomfort and heat 
of the cities avoided. After passing the suburban town o^ 
Evanston, and the attractive villages of Highland Park and 
Lake Forest, Waukegan, III., is reached—a fine town of 
nearly 8,000 inhabitants, the county seat of Like County, so 
called from the fifty and more lakes within its borders. 

This lake town is becoming more and more a place of resort 
for the hundreds who, in the heat of summer, seek healthful 
localities and cultivated and quiet companionship in the retire¬ 
ment of the country. The mineral springs of this locality are 
becoming widely known. 

THE GLEN FLORA SPRINGS, 

though for many years having a local reputation, have not until 
within two or three years been known to the people at large for 
the proven value of the waters. 

The springs are located on the line of the Milwaukee Division 
of the Chicago & Northwestern Railway. About sixteen trains 








THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


237 


pass and repass between the cities of Chicago and Milwaukee 
daily. The location for quiet beauty is not excelled in this 
country, and, indeed, in the world. The springs are nestled in 
a beautiful ravine or glen, a very paradise for the florist, named 
“Floral Glen.” This glen has been terraced tor long distances 
by an experienced landscape gardener. A liberal expenditure of 
money is daily added to the natural attractiveness of this western 
health resort. 

An analysis of the waters of this spring shows the absence of 
all objectionable mineral substances, while the valuable properties 
are present in peculiar combination, and, better than all, the 
invalids who have been helped or cured by the waters certify to 
the curative qualities of the springs. All the prominent residents 
of the city certify to the genuineness of the claims of the pro¬ 
prietors. 

Geek Flora is a regular passenger station on the Milwaukee 
Division of the Chicago & Northwestern Kailway, about one 
and a half miles north of Waukegan. The station is only a 
quarter of a mile from the springs and a newly graded road leads 
up the blutt' to the locality. 

Crossing the btate line and going through the important points 
of Kenosha and Kacine, 

MILWAUKEE, 

the metropolis of Wisconsin, is reached—the commercial centre 
of the State, and important among the cities of the northwest 
lor the wealth, business enterprise and marks of progressive 
thrift here found. The city has about one hundred thousand 
inhabitants, and the situation overlooking the lake shore is 
healthful and attractive. The healthfulness of the city is proven 
by statistics, and is attributable, no doubt, to the slope of the 
streets, giving good drainage, the abundant supply of pure water 
and stringent sanitary regulations. 

A peculiarity which strikes the stranger is the color of the 
bricks. The glaring red, so common in other cities, is here un¬ 
known, and walls of a cream color make the line of buildings 
upon any street of the city more pleasing than the abrupt con¬ 
trasts of red walls with other surroundings. The city is noted 


238 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST 


for its excellent hotel accommodations. The traveler can hardly 
fail of good cheer during his stay. 

The suburbs of Milwaukee, especially the plateaus northward 
along the shore, are charming places of resort for the lover of 
the quiet beauties of nature, or for those having a taste for sport¬ 
ing, sailing, fishing, and the like. Lake Avenue is the famous 
drive of Milwaukee, and there are many beautiful scenes in the 
near vicinity of the city easily reached by charming roadways. 
































































THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


239 


From Milwaukee you can go either via Sheboygan and Man¬ 
itowoc, or via Fond Du Lac and Oshkosh, to Green Bay. 
Sheboygan is a fine city, of about 7,000 people. The 
city, in the plan and arrangement of streets and buildings, is 
thrifty and attractive, and the drives in the vicinity are not ex¬ 
celled by any in the region. The chief attractions of Sheboygan 
are the healthfulness and coolness of its climate, lying as it 
does ten miles out in the lake. 

The popular summer resorts along the line of the Sheboygan 
& Fond du Lac Railway may be easily reached. It is an hour’s 
ride from Sheboygan to Elkhart Lake; three hours to the famous 
Mineral Springs at Fond du Lac; and five hours to Green Lake, 
the favorite resort of many who appreciate the beauty of the 
scenery hereabouts. This lake covers about eight hundred acres. 
The crystal waters are so pure and clear that the white sand and 
gravel of the lake bottom can be plainly seen at a depth of 
twenty-five feet. A steamboat, barge, and boats will run in 
connection with the trains of the Sheboygan & Fond du Lac Rail¬ 
road, and convey passengers to any part of the lake desired. 

FOND DU LAC. 

The railroad facilities for coming to Fond du Lac are equal to 
those of any other interior city in the Union, as they extend 
from the city at nearly all points of the compass. The Chicago 
& Northwestern Railroad have two routes, that by way of Mil¬ 
waukee or that by way of Janesville. The city is rich in manu¬ 
facturing resources, and in wealth and population second among 
the cities of Wisconsin. 

FOUNTAIN SPRING, 

at Fond du Lac, has great celebrity for cures wrought, and is 
visited by hundreds each season. 

Boating on Lake Winnebago—the Winnipesaukee of the West 
—on Lake de Neveu, and Elkhart Lake, all within easy reach, is 
a favorite pastime, while 

GREEN LAKE 

is perhaps the cosiest and merriest summer resort in the West. 


240 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


There is no change of cars from Chicago, on the Chicago & 
Northwestern line, to Green Lake station on the Sheboygan & 
Fond da Lac Railroad, two miles from the lake. Carriages con¬ 
nect with all the trains. Dartford is the name of the village and 
postoffice at the lake station. The lodge at 

SHERWOOD FOREST 

was erected in 1874. The verandas are broad, the halls and 
rooms airy and inviting to comfort and quiet enjoyment. This 
forest is a natural sloping park, with drives and promenades un¬ 
limited, and scenery unsurpassed on every hand. The grounds 
overlook a scene in which wide prairies, forests and cultivated 
farms, with the lake itself, present a picture wherein the bold 
abruptness of the bluffs and ledges and the peaceful quiet of the 
fields happily combine. 

Many villas and summer residences have been erected here, 
but the hotel of J. C. Sherwood, known as the “Sherwood 
Forest,” in plan, location and surrounding, leaves nothing to be 
desired in the way of accommodation for the tourist or stranger. 
Steam yachts sail upon the fair waters of the lake, and carriages 
for driving, cold or hot baths, and the best of cheer, with table 
luxuries fresh from the fields and farms, are here in abundance. 

The Oakwood Hotel and Grounds 

are also located upon the banks of the lake, and give added 
facility for accommodation to visitors and patrons. 

The route via Chicago & Northwestern Railroad, Crystal Lake 
and McHenry, 111., will take you to that beautiful summer resort 

GENEVA LAKE, 

which has, of late, deservedly become a favorite resort with sum¬ 
mer visitors. The village is pleasantly situated at the foot of the 
lake and has all the requisites for pleasurable stay, among them 
the hotel accommodations are superior. 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


241 



16 




























































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































242 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST 



The Whiting House 


is a'first-class hotel, complete and full in all the requisites of a 
summer home. 

LAKE ZURICH, 

reached by the same route, has become known to the many only 
within the last two years. Hundreds who cannot afford either 
the time or outlay to reach more distant points, can here find, 
within an hour and a half of Chicago, the quiet and beauty they 
seek. 

Lake Zurich is enclosed with beautiful groves, among the 
openings of which lawns slope down to the pebbled beach, where 
the pure waters lave the shore. The lake abounds with fish, the 
principal of which are pickerel and black bass. 

JANESVILLE 

is too well known to need particular description. It is a fine 
place for residence with luxuriant surroundings and is noted for 
its pleasant homes. 












THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


243 


WATERTOWN, 

at the junction of the Wisconsin Division of the Chicago & North¬ 
western and the Milwaukee & St. Paul Railroads, is an important 
junction. It is built on the site of the old Indian village. 

The Bay State House 

is the Junction House of note for good accommodations, and is 
well patronized by the large numbers who travel by these popu¬ 
lar routes. 

OSHKOSH, 

on the fair Lake Winnebago, is a flourishing city. It is built on 
the site of an old trading post. Here was the paradise of Indian 
life, his choicest hunting grounds, its waters teeming with fish, 
its woods, pastures, and rich prairies filled with game. The city 
has one of the finest commercial sites in the northwest, at the 
mouth of the Upper Fox river, on the shore of Lake Winnebago. 
The site has great natural beauty, overlooking picturesque lake 
and river scenery. The great fire which visited this city, in 
the spring of the present year, will be fresh in the minds of all 
readers. 

This city possesses rare natural features. The climate is not 
surpassed in healthfulness. The scenery is lovely. The sur¬ 
rounding country is beautiful, with excellent roads, affording 
delightful drives and picturesque views ofjake and river scenery. 
Wild game is abundant in the vicinity. The waters abound in 
black and white bass and other fish, and trout are plentiful in 
streams within a day’s travel. Yachting is the favorite sport of 
the citizens of Oshkosh, and they have unlimited opportunity for 
indulging in their favorite pastime. 

Neenah and Menasha are both places of note on the route 
which leads northward to 

GREEN BAY. 

Green Bay is noted as having been one of the first settlements 
made by white men, and is without a rival in the State in the 
inducements it offers to summer tourists. The city is surrounded 
on all sides but one by water; lying in this State at the conflu- 


244 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST 


ence of the Fox and East rivers. It is on the line of the Chicago 
& Northwestern Railway, two hundred and fourteen miles from 
Chicago, and is reached direct only by this line of road. It has 
also connection, through the Green Bay & Minnesota Railway, 
with Winona, St. Paul, Minneapolis, and all of northern Minne¬ 
sota. Green Bay, with* its suburbs, contains a population of 
12,000 to 15,000 persons. It is noted for the healthfulness of its 
climate, enjoying almost entire immunity from all epidemic dis¬ 
eases. The city is laid out with great precision and regularity, 
its streets being all broad and straight, and the most of them are 
shaded by rows of magnificent old maples, elms and poplars on 
either side. The bay has a gently shelving, gravelly, or sandy 
beach, and bathing in the pure, crystal waters is a favorite pas¬ 
time. There are also excellent fishing grounds and plenty of 
fish, with good hunting in its season. 



The First National House 

is the leading hotel in Green Bay, and is every way worthy of 
patronage. The proprietor is J. E. Dowe, who in every particular 
of management has few equals, and will give to guests all that 
can be asked. Many visitors from the South spend their summers 
at this point. On the route from this point to Lake Superior, 






















TIIE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


245 


ESC AN ABA, MICH., 

is a place of much resort. The pine forest is on one side, and 
the bay and river wash its other borders. During the hottest of 
the summer months the thermometer ranges at about eighty 
degrees, averaging but sixty-five degrees during the entire summer 
season. The place is rapidly becoming one of the most popular 
summer resorts of the Lake Superior district. Seven thousand 
tons of iron ore are brought to the docks at this point each day. 

MARQUETTE 

is on the south shore of Lake Superior, four hundred and thirty 
miles from Chicago, reached only by rail via the Chicago & 
Northwestern Railway, at the eastern terminus of the Marquette, 
Houghton & Ontonagon Railroad, and is the centre of the great 
iron region of Lake Superior. The principal business interests 
are those connected with mining. 

Marquette is well supplied with excellent hotels and large 
summer boarding houses. The city is beautifully located on the 
Bay of Marquette, which is a deep indentation of the shores of 
the lake. The town is well built, its streets wide and clean, and 
well paved. Its people are refined, educated, and extremely 
sociable and kindly. On the Bay you have unequalled facilities 
for boating, and its waters are filled with gamey fish, which seem 
eager to reward the angler, as they are caught in great abund¬ 
ance with but little labor. 

From Marquette you can take steamer for Sault St. Mary, for 
Isle Royal, St, Ignace Island, Fort William, or any point on the 
north shore of Lake Superior. On that shore you will find nature 
in all her wildness. 

You can go via Houghton & Ontonagon Railroad to L’Anse, 
or by steamer to 

DULUTH, 

that much talked of northern settlement, “ the zenith city of the 
unsalted seas,” as it was termed by the facetious Kentucky 
orator. The city is somewhat under a cloud since the “Northern 
Pacific” received so effectual a set back. 

Time and space fail even to mention the mines, the wild 
scenery, the Islands, “pictured rocks,” and numberless novel 
scenes of this northern region. 


CHAPTER IV. 


THE MINNESOTA ROUTE FROM CHICAGO TO LAKE 
KAMPESKA, IN DACOTA. 


Take the [cars of the Chicago & Northwestern Railway and 
proceed via Crystal £ake, Janesville and Madison to Elroy, 
thence westward over the Minnesota Division of the Chicago & 
Northwestern Road to the terminus in Colorado. 

This line starting from Chicago leads across the state of Wis¬ 
consin and spans the entire central belt of the new state of 
Minnesota, and well into the “ Land of the Dacotas.” 

Leaving Elroy you soon reach the incorporated village of 
Sparta, a town of 4,000 inhabitants. Its surroundings are 
picturesque, and even romantic. To the northwest, and at a 
distance of five miles, can be seen Castle Rock towering majesti¬ 
cally to a height of seven hundred feet above the*level of the 
river, standing like a silent sentinel on the top of the encircling 
cordon of bluffs that surround the valley. From its lofty summit 
can be seen the blue hills of Minnesota, across the “Father of 
Waters,” and an extended panorama of hill and dale is presented 
to the admiring gaze. Pleasure drives and hunting grounds are 
numerous. Delightful camping places and picnic resorts are 
everywhere to be found beneath the ridges that encircle the 
town. 

The Mineral Springs of Sparta are becoming widely noted. 




THE GREAT NORTHWEST 


247 



Mineral Springs, Sparta, Wis., 


Nature seems to have combined in the waters, more success¬ 
fully than the most learned physician can compound, the curative 
properties needed to aid the system in resisting disease. 

Twenty-five thousand people visited the springs in 1874, and 
special analysis demonstrates the value of the medicinal virtues 
in the same. 

Dr. Nichols has here established his famous baths, and those 
needing medical treatment can have the benefit of the waters and 










248 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


also the experience of. an eminent physician. The greatest proof 
of the efficacy of the treatment is the success which has attended 
it in nearly every case. 

After leaving Sparta you can proceed westward to Winona 
Junction, where a line diverges to LaCrosse, and the regular 
route continues to 

WINONA, 

on the west bank of the Mississippi River, the eastern terminus 
of the Winona & St. Peter or Wisconsin Division of the North¬ 
western Railroad. Winona is a flourishing river town, and one 
of the finest points for residence in the State. The educational 
facilities and business activity of the town are features which 
make it desirable for residence. 

Westward from Winona the line for a few miles passes through 
the rugged bluff line, and for a time the traveler wonders where 
the smiling prairies and boundless ocean of green is to be found 
as he is whirled through ravines and excavations in the limestone 
of the hills. But soon you enter the fine region of eastern Min¬ 
nesota which surrounds St. Charles, Rochester and Owa- 
tonna, and continue over much the same kind of country to 
St. Peter, making meanwhile a short divergence to Mankato, 
the enterprising interior city of this region, and intersecting at 
St. Peter with the St . Paul & Sioux City Railroad. 

NEW ULM 

is the county seat of Brown county, and is emphatically German, 
the population being almost entirely of that nationality. It is 
noted as being the point of attack in the bloody Sioux war of 
1862, and as the place where the wave of savage lawlessness was 
stayed and the tide rolled back, not without the loss of many 
lives and the burning of nearly all the town. 

Westward from this point it is a new country. Sleepy Eye 
Lake, Marshall, and the new stations along the line give a 
growing local business, and the terminus at Lake Kampeska 
takes the traveler well into the Dakota Valley and the heart of 
what was once the home of the Sioux. 


THE GREAT NORTHWEST. 


249 


This route affords a near line to the Black Hills, to which 
adventurous spirits are now turning, and the traveler who seeks 
the “ far west ” and contact with the people of the “ border,” will 
here find his curiosity gratified, and a hardy, generous and com¬ 
municative people he will find them, whether surrounded by the 
comforts of new found independence, or in the sod hovel or board 
shanty which serves for temporary use. The courage of these 
hardy settlers is sublime. When “strapped,” (the border word 
for failure,) they go cheerfully on to repeat the operation in 
newer localities, or, as oftentimes occurs, to win a fortune after 
years of privation and struggle. 

This route passes through the heart of the bloody ground 
where the Sioux made their attack along the whole line of fron¬ 
tier settlements in Minnesota—the last organized and extended 
effort of the savages to regain supremacy. The tales of outrage 
and suffering endured by the hardy settlers are still fresh in 
mind, and an Indian w r ould probably be safer anywhere in the 
country than along the line of his war path in the central coun¬ 
ties of Minnesota. 


ROUTE 


Boston to Chicago, via Central Vermont, Grand Trunk and 
Michigan Central Line. 

This northern route is much patronized, especially by lovers of 
varied scenery, and those who, while journeying, keep both eyes 
and ears in active service. The route is along the Merrimack 
Valley to Concord, N. H., thence northward, crossing the Con¬ 
necticut at White River Junction and winding among the pic¬ 
turesque Vermont hills, one of the finest summer routes in the 
country, reaching the Champlain Valley at 

ST. ALBANS, 

one of the finest and most flourishing interior towns in the State. 
Here if you stay even for a few hours you can have one of the 
finest views in New England from the hills near by, or princely 
entertainment at the Welden House. From this point you 
proceed direct to the commercial metropolis of Canada, 

MONTREAL, 

passing over the great Victoria Bridge, the wonder of 
modern engineering, two miles in length, including the stone 
approaches. It is supported on twenty-four piers and cost over 
$6,000,000. The attractions of this northern commercial centre 
are many and will amply repay the stranger for a few days stay, 
but the connections are close and you may proceed directly over 
the Grand Trunk Railway via Prescott, Kingston and Toronto to 

DETROIT, MICH., 

one of the most substantial of western cities, where a stay of 
a few days cannot fail to be pleasant, especially if you are quar¬ 
tered at the 


ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO CHICAGO. 


251 



Biddle House, 


D. M. Maxwell, proprietor. This house is strictly first-class, has 
three hundred and seventy-five rooms, with unequalled ^accom¬ 
modations on first floor for commercial travelers, and Railroad 
Ticket and Telegraph offices in the house. 

The connection west from Detroit is over the Michigan Central 
Railroad, one of the oldest and most reliable of the rival lines 
which cross the Peninsular State, and transit to Chicago is 
speedily and safely made across the fertile region of country 
traversed by this line. 

But one change of cars is made by passengers over this route, 
and the diversity of appearance in the sections of country crossed 
cannot but be of interest to the close observer. Commencing 
with the rugged scenery of Hew England hills, and passing over 
the plains of the St. Lawrence valley, and along the northern 
shore of Lake Ontario, the latter part of the journey is over the 
prairies of the West, giving a variety of scenery and experience 
that prevents all idea of monotony. 

A different route is often taken, diverging at St. Albans, for 
Ogdensburg, and crossing the St. Lawrence to Prescott, on 
the Grand Trunk Railroad at this point, and thence westward as 
before described. Parlor cars run through over this line, and 
tickets may be had at the General Agency, Ho. 322 Washington 
street, Boston, or at railway ticket offices. 








ROUTE 


Over the Boston , Concord and Montreal and Southeastern Rail¬ 
road to Montreal , thence westward as in previous route. 

This route from Boston is along the Merrimack Yalley to Con¬ 
cord, N. JET., as in the preceding route, thence via the fair lake 
Winnipesaukee and Plymouth, N. H. (dining station), thence 
to the Connecticut Yalley at Wells River, and over the Passump- 
sic and Southeastern Railroads to Montreal. No change of cars 
between Boston and Montreal. Parlor cars on all express trains. 
This route is a charming one in the warm season, giving every 
variety of scenery, from the smiling intervale to the rugged, 
mountainous districts of New Hampshire and Yermont. 

Ticket Office, No. 240 Washington Street, Boston, or at Rail¬ 
way Ticket Offices. 


ROUTE 


From Boston to Chicago, via the old Boston & Albany , New 
York Central and Michigan Central R. R. routes. 

Starting from tlie station in Beach Street, Boston, this line is 
through the fine suburban country in eastern Massachusetts, 
the inland cities of Worcester and Springfield, among the 
green hills and valleys of western Massachusetts to Albany; 
thence over the New York Central Eailroad via Syracuse and 
Rochester, to Niagara Falls, where all who can will wish to view 
the wonder of the North American Continent, the Rapids and 
Falls on the Niagara River, of which many have written and 
which majiy have essayed to describe, but which must be viewed 
to be fully appreciated; thence over the Great Western and 
Michigan Central Railway, through Canada and across Michigan 
to destination. 

Or, leaving the New York Central at Buffalo and crossing the 
great international bridge, go by the Grand Trunk Railroad to 
Detroit, and from that point westward by Michigan Central line. 


ROUTE 


From Boston to New York , by either all rail or Sound Boats, 
thence by Pennsylvania Bailroad via Philadelphia and Har¬ 
risburg, and Pittsburg and Fort Wayne to Chicago. 

The rival routes from Boston to New York, either by rail route 
via Worcester, Springfield and New Haven, or via Providence 
and Stonington—the Shore Line, so called—are too well known 
to need description, and the boat lines from Fall River, Stoning¬ 
ton and Norwich are no new aspirants for favor. 

The route from New York, via the Pennsylvania Railroad, is 
one of the most substantial lines in the country. The roadbed 
throughout is ballasted with broken limestone, rendering it free 
from dust and the action of frost. The ponderous engines on 
this line surmount the heavy grades, and sweep around the 
curves of the Alleghanies with hardly a jar to the elegant cars, 
so well is the road ballasted, and so excellent is the system of 
engineering and running of trains. • 

It is desirable for all who can to make the trip over the moun¬ 
tains in the day time. The magnificent scenery of the mountain¬ 
ous district is not excelled by that on any railway line in the 
Eastern States, but by the use of powerful locomotives, the long 
train mounts to the divide without delay, giving views of wild 
ravines, rugged mountains and valleys, sweet as sun ever shone 
upon. 

The line passes through the old capital city of Harrisburg to 
the “ Iron City ” of Pittsburg—a city of smoke and cinders—but 
a busy hive of industry, a place of substantial wealth; thence by 
the Pittsburg & Fort Wayne Division across the State of Ohio to 
Fort Wayne, in Indiana, and thence westerly to Chicago. 
The majestic beauty of the Pennsylvania hills is not so often dwelt 
upon as the scenery of other regions more favored as pleasure 
resorts, but many who seek relief from the damp eastern winds 
which irritate the sensitive membranes of the lungs, will find 





ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


255 


among the highlands of Pennsylvania the same exemption from 
the harsh fog-laden winds of the east as they do in the high pla¬ 
teaus beyond the Mississippi, without the enervating effect found 
in southern latitudes. « 

On this route connections are sure, Pullman cars are run on all 
through trains and every convenience known to modern railroad 
travel is provided for patrons of the road. The eating stations 
are superior in accommodations, given in the depot building, and 
all the property of the road indicate, in the style and strength 
apparent, the powerful corporation in management 


ROUTE 


From Boston via Boston & Albany Railroad and New York 
Central Line to Buffalo, thence over Lake Shore and Michigan 
Southern Route. 

Leaving Boston the route to Buffalo is the same as by routes 
previously described, thence the route is by the Lake Shore route, 
via Cleveland and Toledo, and by Michigan Southern route to 
Chicago. This is one of the most popular routes to the west, and 
trains are run with greatest regularity. All that any railway line 
provides in the way of improved rolling stock and superior 
facilities for sure, comfortable and rapid transit the management 
of this enterprising line supply. No finer Pullman cars are found 
than those run over this road. Tickets may be had at the Gen¬ 
eral Agency, Old State House, Boston, or of Bailway Ticket 
Agents generally. 


CHICAGO 


Coming by whichever of the routes, previously mentioned, 
you may, and landing in this characteristic western city, the 
stranger will find much to interest and admire in this Queen 
City of the Great West. After his journey the traveler will 
probably be anxious to find rest and a temporary home during 
his stay, and if he tarries either at the Grand Pacific Hotel, 
or at the Palmer House, he will be royally entertained, for they 
are second to no hotels in the country for the completeness of 
accommodations and elegance of building and furnishing. 



Grand Pacific Hotel. 
17 
















258 


CHICAGO. 



Palmer House. 


Of the sights and peculiarities of Chicago, ask any active 
Chicagoan, (and what resident is not active,) and you will be 
fully informed, for every citizen has faith not only in the present 
greatness of his western home, but in a future, which, if expec¬ 
tation be realized only in part, will be brilliant beyond compare. 











advertisment 


259 


LAKE MEMPHREMACOC. 



Memphremagog House, 


W. F. BOWMAN, - - - Proprietor. 


THE ROUTES TO REACH NEWPORT. 

FROM NEW YORK.—Via, New Haven, Springfield and Connecti¬ 
cut River R. R. Yia Hudson River boats, Saratoga, Lake George, Bur¬ 
lington, Central Vermont R. R., via St. Albans and Richford, or Montpe¬ 
lier and Montpelier & Wells River R. R. 

FROM BOSTON.—V ia Boston & Lowell, Boston, Concord & Mon¬ 
treal, and Passumpsic Railroads. 

FROM MONT RE AL .—Via South Eastern Railway. 

FROM QUEBEC.—Via. Grand Trunk R. R. to Sherbrooke, P. Q., 
and Massawippi aud Passumpsic Railroads. 

* These routes are the most direct from Montreal and Quebec to the White 
Mountains. For farther information apply to 

240 (old 94) Washington St., Boston ; 9 Astor House, Now York ; 202 
St. James Street, Montreal, P. Q.; Opp. St. Louis Hotel, Quebec, P. Q., 
or to VY. F. BOWMAN, Proprietor. 

































































260 


ADVERTISEMENT. 



—BY— 


CHAS. C. LAWRENCE, 

BRATTLEBORO’, V T. 


NOT EXCELLED BY ANY HOTEL IN THE STATE 


Tor Elegance and Completeness in Every Department, 

Offering to the traveling public attractions, facilities and comfort not infe¬ 
rior to the best and most noted hotels. 


THE LOCATION IS FINE AND CENTRAL, 

Situated as it is on one of the widest, pleasantest and most traveled 
avenues in the city. 


R 0 OMSy B 0 TH SINGLE AND IN 8 UIT8, 

Are large and airy. The furnishing and appointments of the best, 
and tables of already well established excellence. 


SITUATED ou the LIVE of TRAVEL BETWEEN 

New York and the White & Franconia 
Mountains, Montreal & Quebec, 

Making the most desirable and favorable point to stop on the Route. The 
drives are excellent in the midst of the most charming of river, 
mountain, valley and lake scenery, offering unrivalled 
inducements for tourists and summer boarders. 

OHAS. G. LAWKENOE, Brattleboro’, Vt. 










0 

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0 


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ft 

0 
















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































262 


ADVERTISEMENT. 



PORTLAND, ME. 


X. W&iIh€Q'TT, - • §*®QpmmwQm* 


This House, under the present management, is in' every department 
First-Class, and has during the past year been entirely 

REMODELLED AND REFURNISHED, 

[and all the Modern Improvements have been added. 


CENTRALLY AND PLEASANTLY LOCATED, 


OFFERS SUPERIOR ACCOMMODATION 
'TO THE TRAVELING PUBLIC. 


Horse Cars pass this House to All Parts of the City. 










ADVERTISEMENT. 


263 



PORTLAND, MAINE. 


The undersigned respectfully inform their numerous friends 
and patrons in the United States and Canada, that, by the re¬ 
cent enlargement and improvements effected in this establish¬ 
ment, they are now prepared to accommodate over 250 guests. 
The Preble House has two beautiful fronts, as shown by the 
engraving. It is unrivalled in its not only pleasant location, but 
is convenient to the Post Office, Banks, Public Buildings, Horse 
Car Depot, etc. The house has been thoroughly refitted and 
furnished with every regard to comfort a nd luxury; has hot and 
cold baths and closets on each floor. The aim has been to make 
this the most unexceptionable first-class hotel in Portland. We 
trust that our long experience in first-class hotels will give con¬ 
fidence to our friends and the traveling public, that they will 
receive every comfort and attention at the Preble. 

Carriages, with attentive drivers, can be had at all times by 
applying at the office; coaches will also be found at the Railway 
Depots and Steamboat Landings on the arrival of the several 
trains and Steamers. 

M. S. GIBSON & CO., Proprietors. 





















264 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


Jojjiishrij ijoust, 

ST. JOHNSBURY, VT. 

GEO. B. WALKER, Proprietor. 


Tliis first-class and finely appointed Hotel has recently been entirely 
refitted and refurnished and now offers to 


j^OMMERCIAL AND J^LEASURE Jl^AYEL 


Centrally located in the beautiful village of St. 
Johnsbury, Vt. Surromided by the most ftoman- 
tic Scenery, stivers, Brooks and Drives to be 
found in New England. 


FIRST-CLASS LIVERY CORRECTED WITH THE HOUSE. 


OPEN FOB. NIGHT TBAIKS. 


Coaches at the Depot on arrival of Day and 
Night Trains. 


GEO. B. WALKER, St. Johnsbury, Vt. 







ADVERTISEMENTS 


265 



this Hotel, J< caied m ilie most beautitul and romantic village on the line 
of the Grand Trunk R. R., twenty miles from the White Mountains and six 
miles from Greenwood Caves, has been recently built with special reference 
to the wants of the pleasure traveling public. It contains fifty spacious, well 
ventilated and neatly furnished rooms, from all of which grand Mountain 
Scenery may be had. ISo pains will be spared to make this a favorite re¬ 
sort for tourists and pleasure seekers. 

A first-class Liverv is connected with the House, and permanent and 
transient Boarders will receive every attention. 


C* S. CUMMINGS, 


MANUFACTURER OF 

JPlymottife Clove*** 

And Ladies’ Gauntlets of all kinds, 

Opp. Pemigewasset House, - - PLYMOUTH, N. H. 

























































266 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


UNITED STATES 

-AND- 

Canada Express, 

PROPRIETORS’ OFFICE, 

39 & 40 Court Square, 

BOSTON. 

Agency Offices at all the principal Stations on the following' 

Roads: 

Boston, Clinton & Fitchburg; Boston, Concord & Montreal;. 
Central Vermont; Cheshire; Concord; Concord & Claremont; 
Concord & Portsmouth; Connecticut & Passumpsic; Contoocook 
Yalley; Fitchburg; Fitchburg & Worcester; Framingham & 
Lowell; Manchester & Lawrence; Mansfield & Framingham; 
Massawippi Yalley; Missisquoi; Monadnock; Montreal & 
Champlain; Montpelier & Wells River; Montreal & Yt. Junc¬ 
tion; Nashua & Lowell; Northern N. H.— Bristol Branch; 
Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain; Portland & Ogdensburg 
(Vermont Division); Rutland & Burlington; South Eastern; 
Sullivan; Suncook Yalley; Stanstead, Shefford & Chambly; 
Troy & Greenfield; Vermont & Canada; Vermont & Massa¬ 
chusetts— Brattleboro’ Branch, Turner’s Falls Branch; White 
Mountains; Worcester & Nashua; Nashua & Rochester. 


FORWARDED BY OTHER EXPRESSES 

To all Accessible Parts of the World. 




ADVERTISEMENT. 


267 



All kinds of Furs dressed soft and clean, 
and manufactured into Fur Gloves, to or¬ 
der. Old Fur Gauntlets sewed over, refaced 
with the best Buckskin and relined with 
soft and fine Lambskin, on reasonable terms. 

Dog Skins and other Furs can be sent by 
express at my expense. 

Buckskin and Chamois Shirts and Drawers 
made to order, and are highly recommend¬ 
ed for those who are troubled with weak 
lungs and are exposed to extreme cold, 
as they keep the temperature of the body 
even. 

Buckskin Gloves made to order and war¬ 
ranted to fit, for all kinds of deformed and 
mutilated hands. 

Ladies* and Gent’s Lamb lined Kid and 
French Glove-Calf Gloves and Mittens made 
to measure. 

Orders by mail or express promptly at¬ 
tended to. 


































268 


ADVERTISEMENT 


COOK’S 

EXCURSIONS. TOURS, 


AND 


CffliRJL TRAVELING M1MMENTS. 


COOK, SON & JENKINS, 

Pioneers, Inaugurators and Promoters of the Principal Systems of Tours 
established in Great Britain and Ireland and the continent of Europe, are 
now giving increased attention to ordinary traveling arrangements in this 
country. 

They are prepared to issue Tourists and Excursion Tickets for the Season to 

HUDSON RIVER, SARATOGA, LAKE 
GEORGE, LAKE CHAMPLAIN, 

Niagara Falls, St. Lawrence, Montreal, Quebec, Saguenay River, 
White Mountains, St. John, Halifax, Prince 
Edward’s Island, &c. 

COOK’S HOTEL COUPONS 

Are issued only in connection with Cook’s Tickets, at a uniform price of 
$3.50 per day, which are accepted at the following Hotels: 

Albany. Delavan House-, Alexandria Bay, Tlioitsand Islands House; 
Atlanta, Kimball House; Baltimore, Eutaw House; Boston, St. James Ho¬ 
tel; Chicago, Sherman House; Cincinnati, Gibson House; Detroit, Russell 
House; Long Branch, Ocean Hotel; Montreal, St. Lawrence Hall, Ottawa 
Louse; New Yoik, Grand Central; New Oileans, St. Charles; Niagara 
Falls ^International; Niagara Falls, (Can. Side) Clifton House; Newport, 
Vt,., Memph r ema<)og House; Niagara City, Queen's Royal; Philadelphia, 
Col on ad e ; Plattsburg, Foqnet's Hotel; Portland, Falmouth House ; Quebec, 
St. Louis Hotel , Russell House ; Salt Lake City, Walker House ; San Fran¬ 
cisco, Palace Hotel; Springtield, Leland Hotel ; St. Louis, Southern Hotel; '' 
Toronto, Queens; Washington Cily, Metropolitan; White Mountains, 
Crawford House, Twin Mountain House. 

[[gp^ Cook’s Excursionist giving prices for Foreign Tours, 10 cents. Pro¬ 
grammes of American Tours sent free on receipt of (4 cents) Postage. 


COOK’S TOURIST OFFICES. 

201 BROADWAY, - . NEW YORK. 

PHILADELPHIA, 614 Chestnut Street. 

WASHINGTON, 701 Fifteenth Street. 
NEW ORLEANS, 35 Carondelet Street. 

SAN FRANCISCO, 3 New Montgomery Street. 

BOSTON, 8EAB8> BUILDINGS, old 69 Washington St. 








ADVERTISEMENT 


269 


1818. ESTABLISHED 1818. 


SAVAGE, LYMAN & GO. 


226 and 228 St. James Street, 


ILLUMINATED CLOCK, ML 1 ©MTIRIEJklLag 

SOLE AGENTS FOR 


1? irJLUDIir^ 

LOCLE, SWITZERLAND, 

fVize Wkt(5l\ & dl\roi|on|etef jVIkkeT, 

LONDON, 1862, PARIS, 1867, 

And Grand Medal for Progress at Vienna, 1873 . 

<»> - 

Savage, Lyman & Co. have in stock a large assortment of Mons. Nar- 
din’s manufactures, in gold and silver cases, and the continental reputation 
of which Ulysse Nardin of Locle has acquired justifies Messrs. Savage, 
Lyman & Co. in stating, tliat as accurate time-pieces they are unrivalled. 

Savage, Lyman & Co. have the largest stock of Fiue jewelry in the Do¬ 
minion, of latest novelty, and in every variety of style. 

Also, Tourists, Marine and Opera Glasses, a full assortment. 

Leather Bags and Dressing Cases, fitted complete, for Ladies and Gen¬ 
tlemen, French Clocks and Bronzes, Traveling Clocks, Silver and 
Fleetro Plated Ware in every variety, Jet, Shell and Silver Jew¬ 
elry, Fans and Fancy Goods, Fine Crjstal Keyless Watches, $15. 

Caution .—Owing to the superior excellence of, and the increased demand 
for Ulysse Nardin’s watches and chronometers, many imitations are impor¬ 
ted. Some with “ U. Narden.” “ N. Nardine,” &c. None are genuine with¬ 
out his name in full, and manufactured for Savage, Lyman & Co. 


THEODORE LYMAN. 


OHAS. W. HAGAK. 


HENRY BIRRS. 




270 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


The “GALAXY” is about as near perfection as anything 

Can b Q.—Daily Register, New Haven, Conn. 

THE GALAXY, 

FOR 1875. 

IT IS THE BEST AMERICAN MAGAZINE ! 

No Family can afford to do without it. It gives more good and attractive 
reading matter for the money than any other periodical or book published. 

The leading newspapers pronounce THE GALAXY the best and most 
ably edited American magazine. 


WHAT THE LEADING PARERS SAT: 

“ The ‘ Galaxy ’ is always more of -a magazine than any, and more varied 
in its range than any other.”— Independent. 

“A model periodical; a credit to American periodical literature.”— 
Philadelphia Press. 

$ “ There is not a dull page between its covers.”— N. T. Times. 

“ Always ably edited, and remarkable for the good judgment displayed 
in the selection of current topics for discussion.— Boston Journal, Mass. 


Price, 35 cts. per Number. Subscription Price, $4.00 per year. 

SHELDON & CO., 677 BROADWAY, N. Y. 


GET ¥$$& T 

Webster’s Unabridged Dictionary. 

ILLUSTRATED EDITION. 

10,000 W«rds ami Meanings not In other Dictionaries. 

3,000 Engravings. 1,840 Pages Quarto. Price, $12.00. 

ALSO, 

Webster's National Pictorial Dictionary, Price, $5.00. 

PUBLISHED BY 

G. & O. MERRIAM, 
SPRINGFIELD, MASS. 

Sold by all Booksellers. Either of tlie above sent, charges paid, on 
receipt of price, by express. 






ADVERTISEMENT. 


271 


THE 

BOSTON DAILY ADVERTISER, 

PUBLISHED AT 

29 Court Street, Boston, 

THE LEADING 

FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL NEWSPAPER 

OP NEW ENGLAND. 

Republican in Politics; Independent and Fearless in Ex¬ 
pression; Wide in its Scope, and Ample in its 
Arrangements for News. 

'MJ SI WT A 

As a Medium for Family or Business Advertising, 

Price, Postage Paid, $12 per Annum. 


The Semi-Weekly Advertiser, 

Price, Postage Paid, $4 per Annum. 



Price, Postage Paid, $2 per Annum. 


ORDERS MAY BE SENT THROUGH NEWSMEN. 





272 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


THE BOSTON DAILY 

GLOBE, 

»I£II FA8II, 

IJ-9 ONLY 

75 CTS. PER MONTH, 

BY MAIL OR CARRIER. 

BYT 

$8.00 FOR ONE YEAR. $4.00 FOR SIX MONTHS. 

THE WEEKLY GLOBE, 

The Best Weekly Paper in America is only 
JSL. 

GLOBE PUBLISHING CO. 

238 WASHINGTON STREET, BOSTON. 







BOSTON JOURNAL, 

PUBLISHED MORNING AND EVENING. 

Mailed to Subscribers, postage prepaid , at the rate of 

Daily, $9.00, Semi-Weekly, $4.00, Weekly, $2.00, per annum. 

THE BEST ADVERTISING MEDIUM IN BOSTON. 

Larger Circulation in New England than any other Paper of its class, 
and Larger than the Combined Circulation of any Three 
of the Larger Sized Newspapers in Boston. 

TO ADVERTISERS. 

p Advertisers should bear in mind that by occupying the columns of the 
Boston Journal with their favors, they secure the advantages of the 

Largest Circulation, and the Benefit of Two Papers at 
One Price, a Morning newspaper and an Evening newspaper, without 
additional charge. 

The circulation of the Boston Journal among intelligent classes is 
not surpassed by any paper published. It affords to business men an in¬ 
valuable medium for advertising. Its circulation in Boston is unequalled, 
and to advertisers who wish to reach the people of New England the per¬ 
sonal evidence of all travelers is freely given to the fact that the Boston 
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275 


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Publish Sook^ellei^ 

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Offer a very Extensive Assortment of 

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Also a Large Stock of 

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281 


PROVIDENCE & NEW YORK 

STEAMSHIP CO. 

DAILY LINE BETWEEN 

BOSTON AND NEW YORK! 


Pare Lower than any other Line, 

isr Stoa&s. $4 ,ms •• Mm ©mss* 

FARE TO $7 50. 


Traiii Leaves Boston, from Providence Depot, at 

2 O’CLOCK, P.M., DAILY, 

Connecting at Providence with the Splendid Steamers, 



Landing in New York, at Pier 27 North River, in season to 
connect with all Trains for the 


SOUTH AMD WEST. 


TICKETS and STATEROOMS secured only at 

No. S05 Washington Street, Boston. 

GEO . C. MORRELL, Agent. 







282 


PARLOR CARS 



RUNNING ON THE 

So$to:q, doi)cofd, ^torjtfekl 

-AND- 

White Mountains, N. H., R. R. 


' \ 

“MOUNT WASHINGTON.”— Leaves Boston, Boston and Lowell Depot, 
Monday, Wednesday and Friday, at 8.00 A.M., on White Mountain Ex¬ 
press, for all stations on B., C., M. & White Mountains R.R., arriving at 
Twin Mountain House 4.00 p.m., Fabyan House 4.15 p.m. Returning Tues¬ 
day, Thursday and Saturday, leaving Fabyan House 9.15 a.m., Twin 
Mountain House 9.30 a.m., on White Mountain Express, arriving in Boston, 
Boston & Lowell Depot, 5.20 p.m. 

“ MOUNT LAFAYETTE.”—Runs opposite “ Mount Washington.” 

“CITY OF BOSTON.”— Leaves Boston, Boston & Lowell Depot, Monday, 
Wednesday and Friday, at 12.00 M., for stations on B., C. & M.R.R.,to Lake 
Winnipesaukee and Plymouth, N. H., arriving at 5.40 p.m. Returning 
Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, leaving Plymouth at 7.30 a.m., arriv¬ 
ing at Boston, Bsston & Lowell Depot, at 1.15 p.m. 

“ PLYMOUTH.”—Runs opposite “ City of Boston.” 

“ CONCORD.”—Sleeping Car. Leaves Boston, Boston & Lowell Depot, 
6.00 p.m., night express, for all stations on B,, C. & M., Pass, and Southeast¬ 
ern Railroads, arriving in Montreal 9.00 A.M. Returning Tuesday, Thursday 
and Saturday, leaving Montreal at 3.50 p.m., Newp®rt 9.30 p.m., arriving in 
Boston, Boston & Lowell Depot, 8.30 a.m. 

“MONTREAL.”—Runs opposite “ Concord.” 

“CITY OF WORCESTER.”— Leaves New London, “Norwich Line,” 
5.00 a.m., on New York and White Mountains Express, for all sta¬ 
tions on Boston, Concord, Montreal & White Mountains Railroad, 





PARLOR CARS 


283 


arriving at Twin Mountain House and Fabyan House at 4.00 p.m. 
Breakfast at Bay State House, Worcester. Dine at Pemigewasset House, 
Plymouth, N. H. Returning, leaves Fabyan House 9.15 A.M., Twin Moun¬ 
tain House 9.30 A.M., arriving at Worcester 7.00 p.m., one hour for supper 
at Bay State House, arriving at New London, boat, 10.00 p.m. 

“ GEN. PUTNAM.”—Rnns opposite “ City of Worcester.” 

“ PLYMOUTH .”—Leaves Stonington, “ Stonington Line,” at 4.30 A.M., 
Providence 6.20 A.M.,on White Mountains Express, via Mansfield, Framing¬ 
ham & Nashua and Acton R.R. Breakfast at Providence. Dine at Pemige¬ 
wasset House, Plymouth, N. H. Returning, arrives at Providence 7.10 
P.M., Stonington, steamer, 8.30 p.m. Supper on steamer. 

“CITY OF PROVIDENCE .”—Leaves Providence 6.30 a.m., on White 
Mountains Express, via Providence & Worcester and Worcester & Nashua. 
Dine at Pemigewasset House. Returning, arrives in Providence in time 
for supper. 

- « -- 


Tickets in Parlor Cars secured m 

NEW YORK. 

“Norwich Line,” Pier 40, North River; “Stonington Line,” Pier 33, 
North River; “Fall River Line,” Piers 28 and 30, North River; Grand 
Central Depot, all rail. 

BOSTON. 

No. 5 State Street. 

WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

Lancaster Station, B., C., M. & White Mountains R. R.; Fabyan’s Sta¬ 
tion, B., C., M. & White Mountains R. R.; Twin Mountain Station, B., C., 
M. & White Mountains R. R.; Littleton Station, B., C., M. & White 
Mountains R. R.; Plymouth Station, B., C., M. & White Mountains R. R. 

MONTREAL. 

Southeastern and Pass. R. R. Office, 201 St. James Street. 

QUEBEC. 

Opposite St. Louis Hotel, Stevenson & Leve, General Ticket Agents. 


State Rooms on Steamer can be secured of Con¬ 
ductors of Parlor Cars. 




Boston, Concord, Montreal & White Mountains (N.H.) 

RAILROAD. 


TRAINS NORTH-LEAVE Ex. Train. iMaii Train. 


Worcester. 


N.Y., via Fail River Strs., 
Pier 28 North River.. 
N. Y., via New London 
Strs., Pier 40 N. River 
N. Y. Stonington Line, 
Pier 33 N. River. . 

New York, all rail. 

Boston, Lowell Depot.... 
Boston, B. & M. Depot.. 

New Haven. 

Hartford. 

Springfield... 

New London. 

1 Arrive. 
I Leav®. 

New Bedford. 

Stonington.. 

Providence,via Worcest’r 
“ Mansfield 

Newport, R. I. 

Fall River. 

Taunton. 

Salem.. 

6 Newburyport. 

Portsmouth. 

c Dover. 

b Haverhill. 

Lowell..... 

Nashua. 

Lawrence. 

Manchester. 

( Arrive. 
{Leave . 

East Concord.. 

Canterbury. 

Northfield. 

Tilton. 

Laconia. 

Lake Village... 

d Weirs, Steamboat. 

Centre Harbor, j Leave 6 

West Ossipee. 

North Conway. 

Wolf boro*.. 

Meredith Village. 

Ashland.... 

j Arrive. 

| Leave.. 

Rumney. 

West Rumney. 

Warren. 

Haverhill and Newbury. 

Woodsville. f ^ rr ^ e- 

(Leave.. 

Wells River.. 

Bath. 

Lisbon. 

North Lisbon. 

Littleton, arrive. 


Concord.. 


Plymouth.. 


5.00 P. M 


5 00 


5.00 « 

8.10 “ 
aS.OO A. M, 
a7.30 “ 

11.20 P. M 
12.35 A. M. 
a2.00 “ 

aS.OO * £ 
7.40 “ 

a8.00 “ 

a5.45 “• 

4.30 “ 

a6.30 “ 

a6.20 “ 


a5.00 
a6.32 
a7.00 
a6.15 
a7.55 
a7.55 
«7.15 
a8.48 
a9.30 
a8.25 
a 10.02 
10.35 
a 10.35 


11.35 “ 

11.40 “ 

11.52 *• 
1.00 P. M. 
2.00 “ 
/5.00 “ 

7.00 “ 

3.00 “ 


h 12.35 

1.10 


1.50 

*2*3*8 


3.22 


10.45 A.M. 
10.51 “ 
11.09 “ 
11.18 “ 
1130 “ 
11.53 “ 
1158 “ 
12,10 P.M. 


12.20 
12.41 
M2.55 
1.20 
1.41 

1.50 
2.14 
2.58 
3.25 
4 00 
4.05 
4.20 
4.35 

4.50 
5.05 


Ex. Train. 


12.00 M. 
12.00 M. 


6.00 A.M, 
7.15 “ 


11.15 


10.40 

11.00 


610 35 
612.15 
1.00 

1.35 
1.05 
2.20 
3 05 
8.30 

3.35 
3.51 
4.05 
4.17 
4.38 
4.42 
4.54 


P.M. 


6.30 •* 
5.05 “ 
5.25 “ 
c5.40 “ 
e7 35 A.M. 
7 58 “ 
8.07 “ 
8.29 “ 
9.15 “ 
9.42 « 
10.05 “ 
10.00 “ 
10.20 “ 
10.51 “ 
11.06 “ 
^fll.20 “ 


Monra-'l Ex 


10.00 A.M. 
6.00 p.m. 
5.00 “ 
12.34 “ 
1.37 « 
2.35 “ 


4.35 


2.15 

1.20 


11.15 A.M. 
1.50 P.M. 

4.40 “ 

2.40 “ 

5.10 “ 
c5.18 “ 
63.30 “ 

7.00 “ 
/7.30 “ 
6.05 “ 
8.07 “ 
8.45 “ 
8.45 “ 
8.47 “ 
8.57 “ 

9.11 “ 
9.25 “ 
9,54 <• 

10.04 “ 

10 05 “ 


10.17 “ 
10.40 “ 
10.50 “ 


12.04 A.M. 

i.00 A.M. 
































































































Boston, Concord, Montreal* White Mountains Kailroad— Continued. 


TRAINS NORTH-LEAVE 


Profile House, Arrive_ 

Wing Road, “ .... 

Bethlehem, “ .... 

Sinclair House, “ 

Twin Mt. Station, Arrive 
White Mt. House, “ 

Fabyan House, “ 

Mt. Wasb’n Sum’t, “ 

Crawford House, “ 

Whitefield, “ 

.Dalton, “ 

So. Lancaster, “ 

Lancaster .{Leli™: 

Waumbek IJouse, Arrive 
Northumberland Falls. 
Northumberland, Arrive 
Gorham, “ 

Glen House, “ 

St. Johnsbury, “ 

Newport. 

Island Pond.... j Arnve 
Richmond.. 


Leave. 

(Arrive. 


\ Leave. 

lontreal via Passum 
and South Eastern. 


Arrive........ 

Quebec, Arrive. 


Ex. Train. |Mail Train. 

Ex. Train. 

5.00 P.M. 
3.37 “ 
3.50 “ 
4.25 “ 
4.07 “ 
4.15 “ 
4.15 “ 
6.30 P.M. 

6.30 p.m. 
5.26 “ 

5.30 “ 
6.00 “ 
5.45 “ 
6.00 “ 
6.00 “ 

1.00 p.m. 
#11.34 A.M. 
#11.57 “ 
12.30 P.M. 
12.15 “ 
12.45 “ 
1.00 “ 

6.00 “ 
4.00 “ 

8.00 “ 
5.43 “ 
5.56 “ 
6.02 “ 

2.00 “ 
11.50 A.M 

1 9 03 T> TVT 

4.32 “ 
6.00 “ 
6.00 “ 
6.18 “ 
6.30 “ 

12.08 “ 

6.06 “ 
8.00 “ 
6.35 “ 
6.48 “ 

#12.21 “ 
2.00 “ 
12.36 “ 
12.45 “ 
4.15 “ 
5.00 “ 



3.23 P.M. 


/5.03 “ 
5.25 “ 
/9.00 “ 
10.00 “ 
2.05 A.M. 
2.30 “ 





/9.00 “ 
10.00 “ 
2.05 A.M. 
2.30 “ 

7tl.55 “ 
2.15 “ 
5.00 “ 
5.30 “ 

9.30 P.M. 






6.30 A.M. 
7.40 “ 

6.30 “ 
7.40 “ 

8.45 “ 
9.20 “ 


Montr’l Ex. 


1.58 A.M. 

3.58 


9.30 


aThirty minutes for dinner at the Pemigewasset House, Plymouth, and 
arrive at Littleton, Lancaster, Profile House (Franconia Mountains), Fab¬ 
yan, Sinclair, Waumbek, Crawford, Twin Mountain and White Mountain 
Houses early the same afternoon, and Mount Washington House (summit 
of Mount Washington), before sunset. Montreal via St. Johnsbury and 
Newport early the same evening. No change of cars. Via Northumber¬ 
land & Grand Trunk 6.30 next morning. Quebec 7.40. 

6Via Haverhill and Lawrence. cVia New Market Junction. 

dSteamboat “Lady of the Lake’’ for Wolfboro’, Centre Harbor stages to 
West Ossipee, rail to North Conway, one hour at Centre Harbor for dinner. 

^Passengers by the accommodation train lodge at Plymouth, and proceed 
at 7.35 the following morning, arriving at Littleton, Lancaster, and Profile, 
Crawford, Twin Mountain, Fabyan, Sinclair, Waumbek and White Moun¬ 
tain Houses in time to dine; connecting at Northumberland with the 12.45 
f.m. train, Grand Trunk Railway, for Island Pond, Montreal and Quebec, 
Gorham and Glen House, arriving same evening. /Supper. 

# Passengers by this train, leaving the Mountain Houses after usual break¬ 
fast hours, connect at Northumberland Junction with G. T. R. R. for Glen 
House, Montreal and Quebec, arriving same evening. ADine. 

Extra train for Gorham and Glen House via Northumberland Junction, 
Lancaster, 7.30 A.M., arriving at Gorham 10.00 a.m., Glen House 11.30 A.M. 

Extra train for Gorham and Glen House via Northumberland Junction, 
Lancaster, 12.20 P.M., arriving at Gorham 5 P.M., Glen House 6.30 p.m. 

Returning— Leave Glen House for Gorham and Lancaster 10.00 a.m., ar¬ 
rive at Gorham 11.20 a.m., Lancaster 2.15 p.m. Leave Glen House for Gorham 
and Lancaster 4.00 p.m., arrive at Gorham 6.00 p.m., Lancaster 7.30 P.M. 

Connect at Wells River with Montpelier & Wells River Railroad. 

Parlor Cars run on all trains on B., C., M., & W. M. R. R. 

Conductors B., C., M. & W. M. B. It— J. S. Russ, George W. Eastman, 
Thomas Robie, O. M. Hines, E. F. Mann, Geo. V. Moulton, F. C. Green, J. 
H. Sargent. Office in Boston 5 State street. 

J. A. DODGE, Supt., Plymouth, N. H. 
























































Boston, Concord, Montreal & White Mountains (N. H.) 

R A I L R O A D 


TRAINS SOUTH - LEAVE Ex. Train. 


Quebec. 

Montreal via North- 

& umberland. 

Montreal via South¬ 
eastern & Pass. R.R. 

Richmond. I Arrlve 


Island Pond.. 


j Leave. 
{ Arrive 
j Leave, 
i Arrive 
l Leave. 


Woodville.. 


Newport. 

St. Johnsbury 

Glen House. 

Gorham... 

NorthumberPd, June. 
“ Falls. 

Waumbek House. 

Lancaster. 

So. Lancaster.... 

Dalton. 

Whitelield. 

Crawford House. 

Mt. Wash. Summit... 
Fabyan House Station 
White Mount’ll House 
Twin Mt. Station 
Sinclair House... 

Bethlehem. 

Wing Road. 

Profile House... 

Littleton.. 

No. Lisbon. 

Lisbon.. 

Bath.. 

( Arrive 
(Leave. 

Wells River. 

Haverhill & Newbury 

East Haverhill. 

Warren. 

Wentworth. 

West Rumney.. 

Rumney. 

Quincy. 

Plymouth.... { A ™ 

Bridgewater . 

Ashland. 

Meredith.Village. 

Wolf boro’. 

No. Conway. 

West Ossipee. 

Centre Harbor. 

Weirs (steamboat).... 

Lake Village. 

Laconia.. 

East Tilton. 

Tilton. 

Northtield.. 

Canterbury. 

East Concord. 

1 Arrive 

Concord.J Leave. 

(Leave 


8 30 P.M 


10 00 


1 50 A.M 

2 15 “ 
dl 00 “ 

7 45 “ 


dl 00 
d9 05 


8 30 

8 35 
8 00 

9 00 


9.32 


dl 30 
dl 00 
d 9 10 
d9 25 
d9 23 
d9 30 
d9 36 
d9 48 
d 8 30 
dlO 10 


dll 48 p.m 


M2 30 
dl 01) 


10 15 A.M 

7 20 

8 00 
1 00 P.M 
138 “ 

1 49 “ 
153 “ 


2 14 


2 25 

3 00 
e3 40 


ivir. xram. 


al2 10 p.m 


a12 45 “ 


a9 30 “ 
a8 00 “ 


6 00 A.M 

7 45 “ 

7 59 “ 

8 05 “ 

8 18 “ 

6 00 “ 


7 15 “ 

7 30 “ 

8 00 “ 
8 00 “ 
8 18 “ 

8 35 “ 
7 00 “ 

9 00 “ 
9 13 “ 
9 26 “ 
9 41 “ 
9 55 “ 

10 17 “ 
10 12 “ 
10 44 “ 
10 59 “ 
1127 “ 
1138 “ 
1150 “ 
12 00 M. 


hl2 22 p.m 
103 ‘ 


117 “ 

1 37 “ 
10 15 A.M 

7 20 “ 

8 00 “ 


1 48 p.m 

2 00 ' 

2 05 1 
2 19 1 
2 28 1 
2 40 1 

2 48 1 

3 20 ' 

3 27 1 


Mont 1 Ex. 


9 05 A.M 


Ac. Train. 


7 00 A.M 


7 30 


1 00 P.M 
127 “ 

3 08 “ 


12 00 M. 

1 15 P.M 
130 “ 
136 “ 
149 “ 
12 00 M. 


115 P.M 
115 “ 
130 “ 
130 “ 

1 50 “ 

2 10 “ 

1 00 “ 

2 25 “ 

2 39 “ 

2 53 “ 

3 07 “ 

3 25 “ 

3 53 “ 


4 45 


5 28 
5 35 


6 24 
3 00 


6 33 
6 44 
6 49 


7 10 


e3 40 


7 30 
7 30 


10 30 “ 
10 45 “ 

1 40 P.M 
c2 00 “ 


3 00 
3 20 
5 00 


7 30 A.M 


7 45 

8 10 


7 30 

8 95 
8 39 
8 44 

8 57 

9 07 
9 25 
9 35 
9 58 

10 05 
10 15 


Night Ex. 


c 3 45 P.M 


9 00 
9 25 
11 34 


12 33 A.M 


1 44 


2 50 


3 29 


4 00 
4 05 


5 20 
5 30 








































































































































Boston, Concord, Montreal & White Mountains Railroad— Concluded. 


TRAINS SOUTH-LtAVE 


Manchester.leave 

Lawrence. , 

Nashua. 

Lowell. 

Haverhill. 

Dover. 

Portsmouth. 

Newburyport. 

Salem. 

So. Framingham. 

Taunton.. 

Fall River. 

Newport, R. I. 

Providence. 

New Bedford. 

Worcester. 

New London. 

Stonington. 

Springlield. 

Hartford. 

New Haven. 

Boston B. & M. Depot. 
Boston, Lowell Depot. 
New York, all rail.... 
N. Y. via Stonington 
Line, Pier 33 N. Riv. 
N.Y. via Norwich Line 
Strs., Pier 40 N. Riv. 
N.Y.via Fall Kiv. Strs. 
Pier 28 North River. 


iEx.Train. Ml. Train. 


3 30 p.m 

5 30 “ 

4 00 “ 

4 25 “ 

6 26 “ 

6 17 “ 

6 15 “ 

6 55 “ 

7 00 “ 

5 30 “ 

7 40 “ 

8 20 “ 
810 “ 

7 10 “ 

8 25 “ 

7 10 “ 

10 15 “ 

9 00 “ 
8-15 “ 

1 26 A.M 

2 40 “ 

6 29 p.m 
5 20 “ 

5 25 A.M 


5 00 


5 00 


5 00 


4 20 

5 30 

4 58 

5 30 

6 26 
6 17 
6 15 

6 55 

7 00 

6 15 

7 40 

8 20 
8 10 
8 20 
8 25 
7 10 

10 15 


P.M 


1 26 A.M 

2 40 “ 

6 29 P.M 
6 23 “ 

6 25 A.M 


5 00 


Ylont’lEx. 


8 30 p.m 


9 05 
9 30 


10 25 


Ac. Train. 


10 58 a.m 
12 15 P.M 
11.45 A.M 
12 15 P.M 
138 4 
/3 00 ‘ 


2 15 
1.45 

1 35 

3 18 

4 46 

5 25 

3 30 

4 08 

2 00 


6 15 

7 20 

8 30 
115 
1 15 

11 12 


Night Ex. 


6 10 A.M 

7 30 “ 

7 00 “ 

7 30 “ 

8 40 “ 
10 10 “ 
10 10 “ 

9 30 “ 

8 50 “ 

8 58 “ 

10 28 “ 
1107 “ 
1150 “ 
10 80 “ 


9 20 


1135 “ 

1 50 p.m 

2 50 “ 

8 40 A.M 
8 30 “ 

5 15 P.M 


aLoiige at island Pond, leaving at 7 a m. next morning, connecting at North¬ 
umberland Junction with Through Express on B., 0., M. & White Mts. R. R., 
for all the Monntain Houses. 

6Quebec and Montreal Day Express via Northumberland Junction arriving 
at principal White Mountain Houses in time for tea. 

cTea at Memphremagog House. 

^Through Express to Boston, via Nashua & Lowell, New York via Nashua— 
Passengers for Worcester, Springfield, Hartford, New Haven, Stonington, 
Norwich, New London, South FTamingham, Providence, Taunton, New Bedford, 
Fall River, and Newport take this train; arrive in Boston 5.20 p.m. 

eVia Lawrence. 

f Via Concord & Portsmouth Railroad. 

/tPassengers by this train can leave Lancaster, Littleton and the Mountain 
Houses after the usual breakfast hour, and arrive in Manchester, Lawrence, 
Dover, Portsmouth, Hampton Beach, Nashua, Worcester, Providence, Taun¬ 
ton, New Bedford, Fall River, Salem, and Boston, in time for supper. 

iPassengers for Dover and Portsmouth change cars at Manchester for Con¬ 
cord and Portsmouth Railroad. 

Passengers for Salem change cars at Lowell. 

Passengers for Fitchburg change cars at Ayer’s Junction. 

Express train leaving Montreal via Passumpsic and South Eastern at 3.45 
p.m. Sleeping cars attached run through via Plymouth to Boston, arriving at 
S.30 a.m. 


Day Express leaving Montreal via South Eastern and Passumpsic at 8.45 
a.m. runs through to Boston via Plymouth, connnects at Wells River with 
Express train for Littleton and Lancaster, arriving at all the Mountain Houses 
before sunset. 

First Express and Mail South stops 30 minutes at Pemigewasset House, 
Plymouth, for dinner. 

Connect at Wells River with Montpelier & Wells River R. R. 

Parlor Cars run on all trains on Boston , Concord, Montreal & White 
Mountains, (W. H.) Railroad. See Page 282. 

OFFICERS: — J. E. LYON, President, Boston; J. A. DODGE, Supt.; C. M. 
WHITTIER, Cashier, Plymouth, N. H.; W. R. BRACKETT, G. T. A.; J. L. 
ROGERS, G. F. A. 

OFFICE in MONTREAL, 202 St. James St.; QUEBEC, opp. St. Louis Hotel. 
G. LEVE, Agent. 

































































288 


TIME TABLES. 


XVXt, Washington Railway. 


SUMMER ARRANGEMENT , 1875. 


UPWARD. 

Leave Ammonoosuc Station - - 10.30 A.M., 5.30 P. M. 

DOWNWARD. 

Leave Tip-Top Station - - 7 A.M., 2 P.M. 

EXTRA TRAINS will be run for a reas^ .le number of passengers 
upon suitable notice by Mail or Telegraph 
COACHES to and from the Railroa^ cf Hotels connect with al 
regular trains, both at the base and sumn. 

WALTER AIKEN, Manager. 


LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE. 


THE NEW STEAMER , 



Connecting at Weirs with the Boston, Concord Si Montreal Railroad, 

LEAVES WEIRS FOR 

CENTRE HARBOR, CONWAY, NORTH CONWAY, 
WHITE AND FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS, 

At 11.50 a. m., and 4.40 p. m., or on arrival of the trains from Boston. Pas¬ 
sengers leaving Boston by the 7.30 a. m. train, via Boston & Maine, or 8.00 
a. m. Express, via Boston & Lowell, arrive at Centre Harbor, (sailing over 
the most interesting portion of the Lake) one hour earlier than by any 
other route, and at Conway same evening; or by the 12.00 m. train, arrive 
at Centre Harbor and Wolfeboro.’ Passengers from New York, by tne 
5.00 p. m. train, via this route, arrive at Conway next evening. 

BAGGAGE CHECKED THROUGH. 


RETURNING. — Leave Wolfeboro’ daily, at 5.30 a. m., 10.15 a. m. 
and 3.00 p. m., touching at Diamond Island four times a day, to connect at 
Weirs with trains going North and South. Leaves Centre Harbor at 7.30 
a. m. and 1.00 p. m. for Boston and New York. 

Passengers leaving Conway, North Conway, Centre Harbor, or Wolfe¬ 
boro’ in the morning, arrive in Boston or New York 1£ hours earlier than 
by any other route. 

S. B. COLE, Captain. 


GORHAM, MT. WASHINGTON AND GLEN HOUSE. 

* Stages connect at Gorham, N. H., with all trains on-the Grank Trunk 
Railway for the Glen House. 

Stages leave the Glen House to connect with all trains on the Grand Trunk. 
Stages leave the Glen for the Summit at 8.00 a. m. and 3.00 p. m., daily; 
leave Summit for the Glen House at 6.00 a. m. and 2.09 p. m. 

Stages leave for North Conway and Glen Station at 8.00 a.m. and 3.00 p.m. 
Extra Stages furnished parties on application. 

W. & C. R. MILLIKEN, Glen House, N. H. 

Proprietors Gorham, Glen House and Mt. Washington Carriage Road. 









1875 




Great, International Route. 

GRAIMD~TRUNK. 

1377 Miles Under One Management. 


THE GREA. DIRECT CANADIAN 



Between the Extern and Western States. 


GREAT FREIGHT ROUTE 

Between Europe and North America. 

Several I.lnes of Powerful Screw Steamer?, during the summer* 
CQHKe regular nips between Liverpool .and Montreal, and between Glasgow 
and Montreal, there connecting with the GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY, thus 
forming the 

Most Direct Route to and from England and the Western States of the Union. 

Only Two Transhipments between Liveipool and Chicago or Cincinnati. 
Goods sent through in Bond. 

Jgfr** The Cheapest and Best Boute to all Points East and West. 

Close Connections made with all Connecting Lines, and Through Tickets 
issued to all important points. 

ACCELERATION OF SPEED on the EXPRESS TRAINS. 

Gar* new CARS on all the EXPRESS TRAINS. 

PULLMAN'S PALACE and SLEEPING CARS are now run on the 
Grand Trunk Line. 

Jg|F~ For San Francisco, Sacramento, Salt Lake City, Omaha, and interme¬ 
diate places on the Pacific Railway, the Grand irunk is the most direct. 

Splendid Palace Ctfrs are now run between Chicago and Sarnia without 

change. 

UglT" From passengers holding through tickets, American money is received 
at par for Sleeping Berths and Refreshments. 

i 

Be sure and ask for Tickets via the Grand Trunk Railway. 

WM. WAINWRIGHT, Gen. Pass. Agent, Montreal. 

L. J. SEARGEAST, JOSEPH HICKSON, 

Traffic Manager, General Manager . 


















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